I've been using it for a couple days now and so far it is solid, but I'd like to hear it from someone who tried this before, it safe to use the rotor mount from a thread-type hub as the mounting point for bolt-on cogs on a fixed-gear bike, considering the potential for compatibility, strength, and durability issues?
I swapped out the quick-release axle for a bolt-on axle on the rear hub and did my best to adjust the alignment as accurately as possible.
And If Im am too far back in the drop outs ?
by chloechloechloe666
8 Comments
I’d be mortified as well
You could try removing one link from the chain but then the chain will most likely be too short
This is fine, just make sure to tighten the nuts well
This is arguably, a better cog attachment method than standard thread on fixed cogs.
This is exactly why they make rotor mount cogs in the first place. I see nothing wrong with this setup, just make sure your cog is mounted with steel bolts. Dropout positioning is fine, but you can remove a link or use a half link if you want to tuck the wheel in a little closer
As long as your cog is mounted with steel bolts (I would use blue Loctite as well, just a drop), that’s solid.
Got back from like a 20 mile ride and realized all my chainring bolts were loose, IDK if I trust myself with bolt on cogs.
I use those for two different bikes, a MTB bike and a commuter. I have pedal struck boulders at speed and hauled trailers with those cogs. I have had zero problems with them. My only fear is that those cogs won’t be made any more. The only one I can find in a 1/8” thickness is from an eBay account that sells a brand of cogs from Hawaii called Nemesis.
I have also converted a Shimano front hub to a rear hub and it worked out really well with the bolt on disc cog.
I rode the exact same setup mercilessly for almost a decade. It’s indestructible. All fixed gear hubs should be bolted honestly