I have tried WD40 and apply heat as well but it doesn’t seem to budge. I’m about to just take it to a bike shop and see if they can take them off. Any suggestions?
What place are you applying force to? The Bolt visible in the picture only manages the bearing preload.
FarAwaySailor on
Soak in *penetrating oil* (my favourite is ‘liquid wrench’) for at least 24 hrs, reapplying several times.
Take the crank off and put it in a vise. Use a pedal spanner with a cheater bar. If that doesn’t shift it, put an Allen key in the back and use an impact driver.
Triple check you are turning the right way as the left pedal is reverse threaded.
*Note CRC and WD40 are not penetrating oils
overthere1143 on
Yes, you can.
Get a jack stand under the pedal, which should be horizontal and pointing forward. Get a wrench on the pedal at about a 45º from the horizontal, pointing backwards.
Hold the bike steady and hit the wrench with a lump hammer. A good heavy blow, with no fussing about. It will come loose.
ifnotthefool on
Put the bike in the hardest gear, lock on the brakes and use your foot and all your body weight to get it off! Get a wrench on where the pedal meets the crank, like you have been, and it should go!
Bogmanbob on
First off that’s the left side which is left threaded so turn it clockwise to remove. The right side is normal.
I find it easier if I put my weight on the opposite peddle and use a cheater bar on the wrench.
Goldspoke_Joe on
Both pedals loosen by turning towards the back of the bike. 🍻
Hagenaar on
Do you have a big pedal wrench or are you attempting this with a little 15mm? There’s a reason pedal wrenches exist and it’s not for fashion.
ganaraska on
To remove pedals turn towards the back of the bike.
If you need to slip a pipe over the end of the wrench for more leverage so be it.
that_one_guy_from_b4 on
Leverage helps. I work at a bike shop and even I struggle with pedals from now and then. I have a pipe from a car jack that I put over the pedal wrench when I need a little extra leverage
10 Comments
Remember, the non- drive side is reverse-threaded
What place are you applying force to? The Bolt visible in the picture only manages the bearing preload.
Soak in *penetrating oil* (my favourite is ‘liquid wrench’) for at least 24 hrs, reapplying several times.
Take the crank off and put it in a vise. Use a pedal spanner with a cheater bar. If that doesn’t shift it, put an Allen key in the back and use an impact driver.
Triple check you are turning the right way as the left pedal is reverse threaded.
*Note CRC and WD40 are not penetrating oils
Yes, you can.
Get a jack stand under the pedal, which should be horizontal and pointing forward. Get a wrench on the pedal at about a 45º from the horizontal, pointing backwards.
Hold the bike steady and hit the wrench with a lump hammer. A good heavy blow, with no fussing about. It will come loose.
Put the bike in the hardest gear, lock on the brakes and use your foot and all your body weight to get it off! Get a wrench on where the pedal meets the crank, like you have been, and it should go!
First off that’s the left side which is left threaded so turn it clockwise to remove. The right side is normal.
I find it easier if I put my weight on the opposite peddle and use a cheater bar on the wrench.
Both pedals loosen by turning towards the back of the bike. 🍻
Do you have a big pedal wrench or are you attempting this with a little 15mm? There’s a reason pedal wrenches exist and it’s not for fashion.
To remove pedals turn towards the back of the bike.
If you need to slip a pipe over the end of the wrench for more leverage so be it.
Leverage helps. I work at a bike shop and even I struggle with pedals from now and then. I have a pipe from a car jack that I put over the pedal wrench when I need a little extra leverage