I tried replacing the rear hub by myself for the first time. Its a 28 spoke wheel, did I lace it correctly? (Its not tensioned yet)
First picture is drive side, second picture is non-drive side.
by Recorsi_
I tried replacing the rear hub by myself for the first time. Its a 28 spoke wheel, did I lace it correctly? (Its not tensioned yet)
First picture is drive side, second picture is non-drive side.
by Recorsi_
12 Comments
I don’t know if it is or not but it doesn’t look to be.
Looks good to me, but I’m not going to check every single spoke.
Parallel spokes at the valve, good. The cross pattern also looks good. Looks like classics 3 cross with interlaced spokes at the 3rd cross, so also good. Yeah man, I think you did it!
If you laced this incorrectly, your spoke length would be all weird. So, it looks like you got the pattern correct. It also looks like you’ve been consistent in interlacing the spokes.
Before you tension, take a moment to use a blunt tool to really press the heads of the j-bend into the hub. Smoosh them in there nice and good. Then, go around and really grab all the spokes nice and good, to further seat the spoke into the hub, and also seat the nipple into the nipple bed. This will make the tensioning process go a little faster.
The hard part is about to begin. Good luck!
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No. A quick google search will bring up some handy diagrams on how to lace a wheel. Also, make sure that your spoke lengths are correct for the new hub. There’s some measurements you need to take. There are spoke calculators online that can help you with the math.
Wheel builder here, it looks good! 28 spoke, 3 cross, the spokes alternate heads, and the interlacing is consistent. I didn’t check every spoke, but I checked half on each side, and everything checks out.
Stop by r/bikewheelbuild to show off your work. This is the most active wheel building sub that I’m aware of since r/wheelbuild went dark.
28 3x, correct at the crossings, valve hole where it should be. Looks fine to me. What makes you think it’s wrong?
It’s laced asymmetrically. I like to build mine symmetrically. But there’s nothing intrinsically wrong with it being asymmetric. There are a lot of armchair wheel builders who will talk about the difference between “pushing” spokes and “pulling” spokes, and which ones should be outbound vs. inbound. Reality is, it makes little difference. I’ve built a lot of wheels and I know my opinions are just, like, my opinion, man, but even I’ll acknowledge my preference for a symmetrical wheel is more about aesthetics than any real structural requirement.
That’s a lot of words to say, yup, 3x 28 hole wheel. Valve stem is between spokes the way it should be and the first spoke forward of the valve stem is on the non-drive side so it’s laced up per the rim spoke hole orientation standard. Looks good.
Looks good! If you’re really anal-retentive, make sure you can see the hub branding through the valve hole.
Personally I would have flipped the drive side lace to be a symmetrical pattern as this would be a marginally stronger build but also encourage the spoke crossing to deflect rather than suck in debris or if it were to hit against the chain also I like to line the hub logo up with the valve just for aesthetics but these are minor critiques and as long as it runs true I’m sure it will ride just fine
you got the valve hole in the right place, cross pattern looks right I can not tell from your pictures if the holes on the rim are lined up right. Seems ok from here… did they tension up ok?
No! This looks bad
No, you missed the “crosses”. When a spoke exits the hub, it should travel under the next spoke in the pattern. That would be a “1 cross” lacing”. The only pattern where the spokes don’t deflect under each other is “radial”. Your spokes don’t “cross” until they are farther from the hub.