I’m competing in a 100 mile gravel race and last years winners were averaging between 20-21mph.
I’m getting around 15mph is it because I’m weak or do I need a larger front chainring. It has a 42t chainring in the front right now and 10-42 casette in the rear
by BritishDentistT
16 Comments
thats a lot of bar tape.
Bike weighs 21.3lbs/9.66kg with water bottles removed and bladder empty.
I have a 1.8l water bladder inside the frame bag and 2 22 ounce bottles. Is that enough water for 100 miles?
Any other recommendations are welcome.
All depends on what the temperature is and if there’s drinking stations. What’s the terrain like and how much of a climb. All looks pretty extreme, so I’m assuming it’s more of an extreme gravel race ?
I thought this was r/bicyclingcirclejerk
ew someone’s bcj is leaking
This is probably a stupid question, but is all the bar tape there to protect the carbon frame?
Bar tape on frame, aero bars on a flat bar bike, top tube water bottles, weird frame bag I don’t think you could make it more cringe if you tried
I really want to hate this thing, and definitely do, but also I have to admit that the aero bar flat bar combo could be fun. The bartape on the frame though, wtffff.
I think it’s dope. With that said why spend all the money modifying this and not just buy a dedicated gravel rig?
Why are you slow? Fitness for sure, but also your riding position looks pretty upright (esp with flat bars). Also not sure why you’d be running flat pedals…huge efficiency drop for a 100 mile ride.
A bigger 2x chainring set would save some watts. Narrow wide sucks watts. Or at least a 46T or so. You’re not spinning out that 42 but being able to run a bigger cog will help with efficiency.
Do they allow you to race with aero bars?
When it comes to race ready, I’m much more concerned with things like chain wear, chain well lubed/waxed, brake pad life, brake fluid, new/enough tubeless sealant, bolts all torqued to spec, shift cables properly lubed ans shift levers smooth (or is there a fresh CR2032 in an AXS shifter), and is the rider ready for the miles and the problem solving opportunities of the race?
since you’ve got a mounted sippy, why not turn those bottles around so you can smash them for speed boosts? That’ll give you 2 free wattbags and over 100mi they’ll prob refill by themselves so you can get another use out of them before the end.
edit- also it’s bc you are weak
But why not just get some wide drop bars? Youll be able to tuck and get out of the wind.
On my Yt szepter (the least aero gravel bike around) i can average 17 mph on the hoods, and get at least 20 when i tuck in and use the drops, on the same stretch of road.
My YT is not meant for speed, gearing is LOW. I think you should focus on being efficient, trade the bar setup for a dropper post and drop bars and get down low for the downhill sections make yourself as small as possible.
I once put a long-range scope on top of an A2 ar15 upper receiver with an extended hood on the 56mm scope, as a joke.
This bike setup reminds me of that.
It’s still a trek, so…