Dry fitting some stuff on this Wilde Rambler while acquiring parts. Will build it up fully in March. How much steer tube are you guys leaving? I had enough spacers to get ~45mm which puts bars either just above or just below expected saddle height depending which way I flip this stem. Im hoping cutting it this long will be fine and can cut it shorter later. Will be going to a fitter to dial it in once I have everything operational.
by trotsky1947
16 Comments
I do two cuts — first to remove excess. I leave 25mm-35mm of space from where I think the optimal fit will be. I ride that for a couple weeks adjusting spacers and stem height until it finally locks in. Second cut is when you’re beyond sure you don’t want the option later to move the stem up.
put a seatpost and saddle on and take a seat, i personally probably wouldnt go for more spacers than you have currently installed.
I always make the mistake of cutting off a little too much too soon… Leave more than you think you’ll need, and then some more than that.
I tend to leave all of it and adjust it until I’m comfortable, then leave it for a while.
Once I’m sure it’s good, I’ll cut it.
That is a seriously gorgeous bike!
I always leave at least a large spacer now because I always regret cutting it too short every time.
Not that much
All of it 🤣
Did that once on one my bikes, its a surly 🤷 had em like for about a month before cutting it to spec, although its still a lil bit high tbh. But who cares though 🤣 i like em comfy
Honestly, my general rule is no longer than the head tube 😂.
On my touring bike I have about 40mm worth of spacers under the stem. This allows me to clear a full handlebar bag over my dynamo light.
When I am in “sport mode” I can drop the front end.
I am glad I left it this long.
https://preview.redd.it/pkj7029ol0ge1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d1e9363e9424946ace80645cdb479d2c7523adf4
I’m dealing with this same question with my new build. I’m tempted to leave a lot of space because I love an upright position but I’m not sure if 80-90mm of spacers is too much.
For my own bikes, I’m happiest with between 0 and 2cm of drop, with levers just north of level. So I’ll cut enough to give me a level saddle and levers plus 2cm or so, just to be extra sure.
18″
My framesets has a spec for 40 mm below the stem as a max. I plan to set it up that way and cut it, then get a bike fit. I’ll probably leave it that long for the year, even if I have a bunch of spacers above the stem. I’m afraid of cutting it too short.
I was debating leaving it full length for the bike fit, but it’s pointless since riding outdoors and tweaking is part of the bike fit.
I will do a test fit in the shop and cut it so the stem is at the highest point I could probably ever want and then leave just a tiny bit more. Once I’ve sorted out the real position, I cut it about 20mm taller than that.
On this bike, I’d probably leave anywhere from 3-8cm of spacers under the stem depending on the fit I’m looking for.
On a carbon and aluminum steerer tube, you’ll often have manufacturer recommended maximum spacer stack. Most likely 3-4cm of spacers below the stem for a carbon and between 4-6cm on aluminum steerers.
On my road bike, I have a 3cm maximum spacer allowed by manufacturer under the stem, so I left enough steerer tube for all 3cm of spacer in the future even though I have 1.5cm of spacers above my stem right now. It looks a bit odd, but I’m only going to get older and I want to be able to move the stem around in the future so I can continue to ride the bike. One thing to keep in mind when doing this with carbon steerer tube is to make sure to have a longer expansion plug to support the carbon steerer from the crushing force of the stem.
On steel steerer tube like on your bike, leave as much as you’d like.
On my Velo Orange Neutrino(a mini velo), I had 15cm under and another 2cm above the stem for the last 4 years. I very recently lowered my stem by 3cm, leaving 12cm under and 5cm above.
As a former shop mechanic, I’d recommend you get a seatpost in there ASAP and clamp that. You’re clamping close to the middle of the top tube, and even on double-butted tubing you risk “squaring” your tubes. You’re probably fine right now, but I suggest practicing clamping best-practices. Even a $10-15 cheapo until you pick a ‘final’ seatpost is better than the risk.
Story time: At a shop I worked at, we made this horrible/avoidable mistake with a triple-butted Ti tandem which resulted in sending the frame back to the manufacturer for a complete top tube replacement on the rear triangle..
That one biff is still nightmare fuel for me 12 years later, please learn from my experience!!