Should I buy at $300? (Buying from lbs) – Jamis quest and I’m am looking for speedy steel race bike to complement my commuter surly straggler.
by plates_25
Should I buy at $300? (Buying from lbs) – Jamis quest and I’m am looking for speedy steel race bike to complement my commuter surly straggler.
by plates_25
9 Comments
Sorry if there’s another sub for this. Want to understand what I’m working with from a group and wheel perspective. I love the ride, plan to replace stem for longer one.
Curious to know what the reputation is on these 90s Jamis road bikes. Any insight into clearance would be helpful. And I don’t know much about the carbon fork either so wondering if that’s a good value overall Ty!
Unless I’m missing something, it looks to have modern STI shifters?
Even if it’s 3×8 Claris, it’s still a good buy at $300.
clearance of this era was 23-25mm might fit a 28mm but hard to say from the angle.
300 isnt horrible depending on aftercare.
unless you’re set on steel, you could find an alu bike with better specs. rear derailleur looks like an old sora. it will work but you can get 105 or ultegra in the private market potentially
20+ year old drivetrain, the shifters may work fine forever, they may be crud and die on you soon. Fork has probably been replaced since rare to leave a fork with that much steerer from the factory.
Does it fit?
The steerer tube stack on that is a bit wild… but there is still saddle to bar drop? Is that your seat height? and the cables are maxed out, so you would need to replace the cables and housing if you wanted the bars any higher. That is also the wrong saddle for that body position. Too wide.
It’s a cool bike, but it has to fit, and be comfortable for it to be worth anything at all. The geometry on some of these older bikes isn’t great for general riding today.
That daisy dukes painting in the background is … something.
I would have already purchased it
Those frames have pretty good rear spacing since the tubes are thin, and they have rack/fender mounts. They’re also reasonable tubing. You could change the fork if you needed more clearance up front. That’s a 9/10/11 speed compatible freehub, so upgrading the drivetrain wouldn’t be miserable either. (I ran that exact wheelset on a Serotta commuter for years with Dura-Ace 9.)
I’m a bit “meh” on it. I don’t think $300 is unfair but I think $200 might be a bit more realistic/“good deal” territory.
I have concerns about the front fork situation- it’s clearly a replacement, but it might be cobbled together- look at the cable routing, it’s super tight. You’ve got to chop the steerer or replace the housing and cables to get things to sit correctly. If you position the hoods “correctly” then you may not even be able to turn the bars correctly. 3×8 isn’t the end of the world, I have that on my trainer bike and it provides a good range, you just have to deal with the additional ring up front. I also worry a bit about fork rake- could be a really weird handling bike.
I guess I would pay $300 if they agree to cut the steerer to correct length and replace the housing so it’s a bit less sketchy