Hiya guys, Long term lurker here.
I'm due to do the obligatory middle aged JOGLE In May for Charity and I'm in training (when possible).
1stly I'm about to clean my bike and lube my drive train before I get scolded!.
I embarked on a hilly Devonshire slog yesterday and only used 1x pannier for supplies etc. Not a great deal of weight.
I really struggled on some of the ascents and felt like I needed another low gear. There's no shame in getting off and pushing when things get really steep but it's a pain when wearing clipless shoes.
When I do the trip in May I'm going to be carrying a tent, sleeping bag etc and I'm concerned I'm gonna be pushing more often than I'd like.
I read about a 'Megarange' cog/cassette. Is this something I could look at? I don't really want to change to 2x and I'm not sure if the frame would even allow.
It has 11 cogs on the back cassette (apologies if I'm using newb terminology).
The bike is a steel kaffenback so not super light but hopefully reliable and solid.
Please do give me any advice as I'm doing this cycle for Charity and I definitely don't want to 'bonk'.
For reference I'm a mid 30s bloke and I'd like to say I'm pretty fit & healthy.
Many thanks 🙌
by Itchy-Factor-1040
9 Comments
Apologies the final image wasn’t meant to be added and I’m unsure how to edit out
Hey, what sort of gradients were you climbing on your Devon cycle? Looks like an 11-42 on the back which you should be able to cycle up a wall with.
You might be able to get a larger cassette – you will have to check what the max your rear derailleur can handle is. You’ll also need a new chain with more links.Â
The other option is a smaller chain ring. That has the effect of lowering all the gears, so your top gear would be a bit more spinny too. That’s just the compromise you have to make with 1x unfortunately.
A 2x drivetrain would give you much wider gearing options, but would involve swapping out pretty much the entire drivetrain, shifters included.
Unfortunately, your options are limited. You aren’t going to be able to get more range out of the cassette with your current drivetrain.
You could get a new chainring. This is probably your easiest option. You currently have a 42t chainring, you can almost certainly get a 38t for your cranks, maybe a 37 or 36. All of which will make your gearing noticeably easier. The key things here are bolt pattern and BCD, bolt circle diameter.
Last option is ride more and get stronger and fitter.
I’m in a very similar situation.
SRAM apex 1×11 drivetrain on a Kona Rove ST.
I have 40t on my front chainring, 11-42 on the back.
I tour with 2 panniers and a CCF pad on the back, and then a tent, sleeping bag, and handlebar bag on my front.
As others mentioned, the three options are:
1. Smaller front chainring. This lowers all gears which hurts your higher end. I wouldn’t go too low with it either. With my current set up, I couldn’t downsize this because I would spin out fairly easily.
2. Wider range rear cassette. Your rear derailleur has a maximum capacity, I’m pretty sure it’s what you currently have. However you can fit a larger granny gear by adjusting your B screw. This may affect your shifting performance but it is possible.
3. It’s also possible to get a “mullet” – I have only briefly looked into this so Google can help you more there or maybe a more knowledgeable commenter. I think it is an attachment between your rear derailleur hanger and the frame which pushes the entire rear derailleur lower. That gives it more space to fit a larger cog.
Last thing I’ll add is that if you get a cassette with a larger range, it’s usually just the last gear that will be larger. The spacing between the others is usually the same as far as I know. That keeps your cadence the same, just makes the climbs easier.
Check out gear inch calculators online to give yourself a good idea of what you need. Important to note that tyre weight and wheel size also play into your gear inches.
Happy riding!
Smaller chainring. Small as you can get.
Even 36/11 high gear is gonna give you around 90 gear inches, far in excess of what you require, unless you are being overly modest about your fitness.
2x, 2x, 2x.
But, if you have to get off & walk, you get to got off & walk.
I honestly would look at either replacing the entire drive train, or borrowing a touring bike with much lower gearing.
Training for hills will only get you so far when you have a touring load. It’s no problem to walk up a few hills, but you don’t want to walk up too many.
Regarding the shoes, MTB shoes or sandals are easier to walk in than road shoes.
Smaller chainring