Having issues with chain skipping under load. Using an 11sp chain, not sure it that is the issue? Or is my chain tension the issue? Any ideas are appreciated.
I’d run a shorter chain to get more chain tension and a better wrap. That r.der should be more extended.
Also, check your chainline? Can’t really tell from the photos.
ViolinistBulky on
If it’s slipping under load then presumably you mean while pedalling forward, what do you mean by reverse single speed?
The internal width of an 11speed chain is narrower than a single speed cog so the chain may not be fully engaging on the teeth.
Is the derailleur guide pulley exactly in line with the cog, either with limit screw or cable tension? And are the chain/cog both new? If one is worn more than the other, or the single cog is flipped so engaging on the effectively new tooth profile then slipping could occur.
By the way, that is some extravagant chain tensioner!
ShallotHead7841 on
I’d suggest if it only does it in reverse and not pedaling forwards under load, it’s likely to be chain line.
nnnnnnnnnnm on
Pull a few links out of the chain to increase the tension
Sengineer2816 on
My guess would be the derailleur set-up (chainline, distance between the single speed cog and the top derailleur pulley, chain tension, …) or the derailleur altogether. I have the same Reverse single speed kit with a KMC 11-speed chain and that pedals smooth as butter. The only difference is I’m using a SB One single speed chain tensioner.
For the skipping, I’d be looking at the derailleur alignment, and the chain line from front chain ring to the rear.
The chain should be dead straight, if it has any angle, you might want to try shifting spacers around to move the rear cog to where you have the straightest angle.
Personally, If I were running single speed, I’d ditch the derailleur entirely, and instead run a tensioner (or if you have the right dropouts, no tensioner)
Sea_Entertainment438 on
Innocent question – why a derailleur on a single speed? I built up a single speed on a frame with dropouts using a White Imdustries ENO eccentric hub.
bikefidelity on
Should be compatible with 11s chains. Chain wrap looks good to me. I guess fake chain or stiff link.
ViolinistBulky on
What frame is it, by the way? Just interested.
BEANIOT on
That’s an expensive chain tensioner 😅
bikehikepunk on
You only have about 7 teeth making full contact on that cog. You need as many as possible.
Chain must not be worn, check for stretch.
Derailur as a tension needs to be tighter (shorter chain to make more contact. Even better to use a specific tensioner.
You also can change your ratios. A bigger rear cog would have more teeth in contact. You can go bigger on the chainring as well.
11 Comments
I’d run a shorter chain to get more chain tension and a better wrap. That r.der should be more extended.
Also, check your chainline? Can’t really tell from the photos.
If it’s slipping under load then presumably you mean while pedalling forward, what do you mean by reverse single speed?
The internal width of an 11speed chain is narrower than a single speed cog so the chain may not be fully engaging on the teeth.
Is the derailleur guide pulley exactly in line with the cog, either with limit screw or cable tension? And are the chain/cog both new? If one is worn more than the other, or the single cog is flipped so engaging on the effectively new tooth profile then slipping could occur.
By the way, that is some extravagant chain tensioner!
I’d suggest if it only does it in reverse and not pedaling forwards under load, it’s likely to be chain line.
Pull a few links out of the chain to increase the tension
My guess would be the derailleur set-up (chainline, distance between the single speed cog and the top derailleur pulley, chain tension, …) or the derailleur altogether. I have the same Reverse single speed kit with a KMC 11-speed chain and that pedals smooth as butter. The only difference is I’m using a SB One single speed chain tensioner.
https://preview.redd.it/u6s08eiwidce1.jpeg?width=2268&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3d6901ba689d8d2b74745655a3a3d89c72d6a6d1
For the skipping, I’d be looking at the derailleur alignment, and the chain line from front chain ring to the rear.
The chain should be dead straight, if it has any angle, you might want to try shifting spacers around to move the rear cog to where you have the straightest angle.
Personally, If I were running single speed, I’d ditch the derailleur entirely, and instead run a tensioner (or if you have the right dropouts, no tensioner)
Innocent question – why a derailleur on a single speed? I built up a single speed on a frame with dropouts using a White Imdustries ENO eccentric hub.
Should be compatible with 11s chains. Chain wrap looks good to me. I guess fake chain or stiff link.
What frame is it, by the way? Just interested.
That’s an expensive chain tensioner 😅
You only have about 7 teeth making full contact on that cog. You need as many as possible.
Chain must not be worn, check for stretch.
Derailur as a tension needs to be tighter (shorter chain to make more contact. Even better to use a specific tensioner.
You also can change your ratios. A bigger rear cog would have more teeth in contact. You can go bigger on the chainring as well.