We cleaned my Grand-Mother house that passed away recently and I decided to keep their old bike.
Is there any way we restore this bike? It looks like a Peugot UO-8. It has a “Tube Special Allege Peugot” and a “Peugot made in france” sticker on it it it cal help Identify it correctly.
Most evident issues are the wheels. They are missing spokes and they wooble from side to side. The tires look like they never rode, problemis it dried out with time.
If you also have advice identifying it or see other major issues with it i’d be glad to hear it.
I can provide other pictures if it can help.
PJ48N on
No more pics necessary. This was an entry level low end bike from the early 1970’s. A lot of people like these old Peugeots. While it’s a fun bike to ride, if everything is working properly, it’s pretty low value. Undoubtedly French threads on the rear hub, headset, and bottom bracket. Can’t tell if the rims are steel (poor braking performance) or aluminum. Probably needs new tires and brake/shifter cables. I’m just scratching the surface here.
If you can do all the cleanup/tuneup work yourself it may worthwhile, but in the open market this has a value equal to or less than the money you’ll sink into it.
savethechows on
No, not worth fixing
Shlunty69 on
I’d keep the saddle. Bum bars r cute.
Singletracksamurai on
I disagree with those saying it’s not worth it. I guess I’m just nostalgic because I’m a 70s kid and used to ride these bikes with my dad. I wouldn’t sink a bunch of money into, but it would be a good project bike if you’re interested in learning how to work on bikes. At the very least give it to someone who is interested. Please don’t send it to the landfill.
DavesDogma on
Might work as a beater bike you wouldn’t worry about locking up at a coffee shop, but you’d have to invest quite a bit of time/money to make it safe to ride.
Stayinthewoods on
I use this exact model peugeot to hang my shop sign from out front because it’s just not worth it. French sized and threaded everything, gonna be out hundreds of dollars and finding a shop with the right tools and know how to do this. Everybody running through here downvoting just because it’s a pretty old bike doesn’t realize how much of a pain in the ass the bike is to work on, or how this is a bottom barrel piece of junk even if it was in perfect condition. Sorry about your grandma it’s cool she was into bikes, but I’d take the pedals off and hang it up. Clean and polish maybe.
filthycitrus on
Collector’s item? No.
Nice useful comfortable utility bike? Yes.
Good project if you like working on bikes? Yes.
sondre531 on
If the wheels are the only problem I’d fix it up, but if any of the bearings are bad I’d drop the whole thing. French standards for everything, very frustrating to get parts + cottered cranks are a pain to work on.
Deanna_Z on
I was a bike mechanic in the seventies and worked on hundreds of these. They always sucked. It’s really not worth the money it would take to get it rolling again. New chain, cables, tires and tubes. and wheels. Not to mention labor. and after all that what do you have? Cut to the chase. Much cheaper to buy a brand new bike.
Deanna_Z on
Hey, I don’t hate the bike. Well, maybe a bit. The point is, trying to rebuild this is going to be a lot of work. And quite honestly, it was always pretty bad. Even when properly adjusted, the derailleur sucked. The wheels are obviously busted. Just buying new wheels for this cheap a bike is ridiculous.
txirrindularia on
Short answer NO. There will always be someone who sees utility in VHS players too, but i’ll pass.
These are a dime a dozen w maybe some useable parts for the FREE bin.
I did change to cables and housings just to make it safe, I have all those if ever needed.
BikePilot2001 on
These Peugeots make EXCELLENT road touring bikes. Don’t just take my word for it. Check what Sheldon Brown says about these frames.
I’ve often thought about a Peugeots restomod because this bike was my first bike in the 1970s.
Positives of the frames:
– Robust steel frames.
– long wheelbase.
– Good fork rake, trail.
– eyelets for rear packs. (I don’t know if front forks have eyelets.)
– fenders can probably fit depending on tire choices
– came with 27×1.25 (32mm width) tires.
– *may fit 700c x 35mm or 38mm.
– ** could potentially fit 650b or 650c wheels (you’ll likely have to install a widget to drop the brakes, though that could interfere with fenders.)
– still have parts availability.
– Mafac brakes are great for touring.
– Peugeots, like most French bikes, are very attractive.
The downsides:
– may need French thread (brackets, perhaps headsets?).
– (a little) heavier than double-butted modern bikes (but touring isn’t a weight-weenie activity.)
– the drivetrain (cottered cranks, etc) and wheels (steel rims, old hubs and freewheel) are not nearly as easy to work with as modern alternatives, and the modern alternatives simply perform much better. But you don’t have to go really top notch on the drivetrain. 2×5, 2×6, 2×7 midlevel Shimano or old Suntour are fine. Acera, Claris, Deore, are all good enough, and available cheaply when you look in parts bins or eBay.
– Some of this will take time.
Do It for the love of the update project rather than the restoration of an oldie. Restoration won’t pay off. Restomod will give you a great bike. Probably for about $300 to $500 more you’ll have a bike that rides as well on country roads (including light gravel) as something that costs $1,000+ in today’s market.
It may not be worth the money to do all that, but if you do, the restomod bike will run for a long time as a very comfortable ride. And it would still be a lot less than buying a new touring bike.
OverjoyedBanana on
The saddle is by far the most valuable item on this bike: it’s a Selle Idéale, very thick leather, hand made in France. It looks in good condition, just wash it was soap, put some leather grease and tighten the tension bolt a bit underside. They are relatively light and surprisingly confortable, last a lifetime.
Otherwise I think this bike can be put to good use relatively cheaply. ~~Rims are probably Mavic and hubs are Normandie, if they’re not rusty, just re-greasing the hubs and checking the trueness will make a great set of wheels~~. I would replace the cottered crankset with a JIS square one as they are riddled with problems. Then replace cables, put the bars in the correct position and some new tape.
Edit: from a closer look the wheels don’t look great, probably steel. The hubs are good though. So either you feel like buying raw aluminium rims and re-lacing the hubs, or just buy aluminium wheels from the same era.
Still-Candidate-1666 on
Make it a cool fixie
janusz0 on
The saddle and bar positions suggest that this bike was a poor fit for it’s previous rider. Is the frame the right size for you?
sully5565 on
Get a tune-up, put the handle bars back to normal. Ride the damned thing
Mezodonis on
Sometime in the mid 1970’s the French makers switched to JIS; a more universal standard. I check all bikeboom French, before attempting restore. Makes good sense to go with JIS because the headaches finding parts go away. Judging by the “turkey wings” (auxiliary brake levers), chances are you got JIS. What I do:
1. ditch the Simplex fr. and rear derailer; replace with SunTour “V” or “Seven”. These are rugged derailers, easy to find and will adapt. The slant //’ogram is sweet. The Simplex fr. is designed (unknowingly) to self-tighten and break! IMHO. The rear derailer here looks out of whack. Check on the bike rack or suspended to see if it shifts all gears. ??
2. swap wheels for Araya or Wolber “Gentlemen” 27×1 1/4 Aluminum wheels or similar.
3. go with SR stem to make the AVA issue go away; may have to sand a tad to get the SR to fit. (22.0 v. 22.5)
4. best $$ for tires are Paselas.
5. the French BB cups are pretty tough, so you could go with a Sugino sq. taper cotterless (s-6) to accommodate the thinner cup walls. OR, I sometimes keep the Nervar cottered setup. Not fun, without the tricks to do the removals.
​
You would have a really decent, very decent, tourer for cruising for under $200 (price varies with luck).
I have one with Stronglite triple chainring (UE-8) and a really built Simplex derailer. Over 44″ wheelbase! What a cruiser.
Well, good luck. Always could keep it as a back-burner project while observing the sentimental value.
North_Rhubarb594 on
It’s old, judging by the components and paint it was entry level. It probably weighs at least 30 pounds if not more. If the derailleurs can be made to work without requiring replacement then it’s a good beater bike. Like someone else mentioned you can put more money into it than it’s worth. Nothing worse than spending $300 on a $75 bike.
20 Comments
We cleaned my Grand-Mother house that passed away recently and I decided to keep their old bike.
Is there any way we restore this bike? It looks like a Peugot UO-8. It has a “Tube Special Allege Peugot” and a “Peugot made in france” sticker on it it it cal help Identify it correctly.
Most evident issues are the wheels. They are missing spokes and they wooble from side to side. The tires look like they never rode, problemis it dried out with time.
If you also have advice identifying it or see other major issues with it i’d be glad to hear it.
I can provide other pictures if it can help.
No more pics necessary. This was an entry level low end bike from the early 1970’s. A lot of people like these old Peugeots. While it’s a fun bike to ride, if everything is working properly, it’s pretty low value. Undoubtedly French threads on the rear hub, headset, and bottom bracket. Can’t tell if the rims are steel (poor braking performance) or aluminum. Probably needs new tires and brake/shifter cables. I’m just scratching the surface here.
If you can do all the cleanup/tuneup work yourself it may worthwhile, but in the open market this has a value equal to or less than the money you’ll sink into it.
No, not worth fixing
I’d keep the saddle. Bum bars r cute.
I disagree with those saying it’s not worth it. I guess I’m just nostalgic because I’m a 70s kid and used to ride these bikes with my dad. I wouldn’t sink a bunch of money into, but it would be a good project bike if you’re interested in learning how to work on bikes. At the very least give it to someone who is interested. Please don’t send it to the landfill.
Might work as a beater bike you wouldn’t worry about locking up at a coffee shop, but you’d have to invest quite a bit of time/money to make it safe to ride.
I use this exact model peugeot to hang my shop sign from out front because it’s just not worth it. French sized and threaded everything, gonna be out hundreds of dollars and finding a shop with the right tools and know how to do this. Everybody running through here downvoting just because it’s a pretty old bike doesn’t realize how much of a pain in the ass the bike is to work on, or how this is a bottom barrel piece of junk even if it was in perfect condition. Sorry about your grandma it’s cool she was into bikes, but I’d take the pedals off and hang it up. Clean and polish maybe.
Collector’s item? No.
Nice useful comfortable utility bike? Yes.
Good project if you like working on bikes? Yes.
If the wheels are the only problem I’d fix it up, but if any of the bearings are bad I’d drop the whole thing. French standards for everything, very frustrating to get parts + cottered cranks are a pain to work on.
I was a bike mechanic in the seventies and worked on hundreds of these. They always sucked. It’s really not worth the money it would take to get it rolling again. New chain, cables, tires and tubes. and wheels. Not to mention labor. and after all that what do you have? Cut to the chase. Much cheaper to buy a brand new bike.
Hey, I don’t hate the bike. Well, maybe a bit. The point is, trying to rebuild this is going to be a lot of work. And quite honestly, it was always pretty bad. Even when properly adjusted, the derailleur sucked. The wheels are obviously busted. Just buying new wheels for this cheap a bike is ridiculous.
Short answer NO. There will always be someone who sees utility in VHS players too, but i’ll pass.
These are a dime a dozen w maybe some useable parts for the FREE bin.
Here is a link to my all original and original owner of a uo8. [Here](https://reddit.com/r/Vintage_bicycles/s/6Ug0VEmbdP)
I did change to cables and housings just to make it safe, I have all those if ever needed.
These Peugeots make EXCELLENT road touring bikes. Don’t just take my word for it. Check what Sheldon Brown says about these frames.
I’ve often thought about a Peugeots restomod because this bike was my first bike in the 1970s.
Positives of the frames:
– Robust steel frames.
– long wheelbase.
– Good fork rake, trail.
– eyelets for rear packs. (I don’t know if front forks have eyelets.)
– fenders can probably fit depending on tire choices
– came with 27×1.25 (32mm width) tires.
– *may fit 700c x 35mm or 38mm.
– ** could potentially fit 650b or 650c wheels (you’ll likely have to install a widget to drop the brakes, though that could interfere with fenders.)
– still have parts availability.
– Mafac brakes are great for touring.
– Peugeots, like most French bikes, are very attractive.
The downsides:
– may need French thread (brackets, perhaps headsets?).
– (a little) heavier than double-butted modern bikes (but touring isn’t a weight-weenie activity.)
– the drivetrain (cottered cranks, etc) and wheels (steel rims, old hubs and freewheel) are not nearly as easy to work with as modern alternatives, and the modern alternatives simply perform much better. But you don’t have to go really top notch on the drivetrain. 2×5, 2×6, 2×7 midlevel Shimano or old Suntour are fine. Acera, Claris, Deore, are all good enough, and available cheaply when you look in parts bins or eBay.
– Some of this will take time.
Do It for the love of the update project rather than the restoration of an oldie. Restoration won’t pay off. Restomod will give you a great bike. Probably for about $300 to $500 more you’ll have a bike that rides as well on country roads (including light gravel) as something that costs $1,000+ in today’s market.
It may not be worth the money to do all that, but if you do, the restomod bike will run for a long time as a very comfortable ride. And it would still be a lot less than buying a new touring bike.
The saddle is by far the most valuable item on this bike: it’s a Selle Idéale, very thick leather, hand made in France. It looks in good condition, just wash it was soap, put some leather grease and tighten the tension bolt a bit underside. They are relatively light and surprisingly confortable, last a lifetime.
Otherwise I think this bike can be put to good use relatively cheaply. ~~Rims are probably Mavic and hubs are Normandie, if they’re not rusty, just re-greasing the hubs and checking the trueness will make a great set of wheels~~. I would replace the cottered crankset with a JIS square one as they are riddled with problems. Then replace cables, put the bars in the correct position and some new tape.
Edit: from a closer look the wheels don’t look great, probably steel. The hubs are good though. So either you feel like buying raw aluminium rims and re-lacing the hubs, or just buy aluminium wheels from the same era.
Make it a cool fixie
The saddle and bar positions suggest that this bike was a poor fit for it’s previous rider. Is the frame the right size for you?
Get a tune-up, put the handle bars back to normal. Ride the damned thing
Sometime in the mid 1970’s the French makers switched to JIS; a more universal standard. I check all bikeboom French, before attempting restore. Makes good sense to go with JIS because the headaches finding parts go away. Judging by the “turkey wings” (auxiliary brake levers), chances are you got JIS. What I do:
1. ditch the Simplex fr. and rear derailer; replace with SunTour “V” or “Seven”. These are rugged derailers, easy to find and will adapt. The slant //’ogram is sweet. The Simplex fr. is designed (unknowingly) to self-tighten and break! IMHO. The rear derailer here looks out of whack. Check on the bike rack or suspended to see if it shifts all gears. ??
2. swap wheels for Araya or Wolber “Gentlemen” 27×1 1/4 Aluminum wheels or similar.
3. go with SR stem to make the AVA issue go away; may have to sand a tad to get the SR to fit. (22.0 v. 22.5)
4. best $$ for tires are Paselas.
5. the French BB cups are pretty tough, so you could go with a Sugino sq. taper cotterless (s-6) to accommodate the thinner cup walls. OR, I sometimes keep the Nervar cottered setup. Not fun, without the tricks to do the removals.
​
You would have a really decent, very decent, tourer for cruising for under $200 (price varies with luck).
I have one with Stronglite triple chainring (UE-8) and a really built Simplex derailer. Over 44″ wheelbase! What a cruiser.
Well, good luck. Always could keep it as a back-burner project while observing the sentimental value.
It’s old, judging by the components and paint it was entry level. It probably weighs at least 30 pounds if not more. If the derailleurs can be made to work without requiring replacement then it’s a good beater bike. Like someone else mentioned you can put more money into it than it’s worth. Nothing worse than spending $300 on a $75 bike.