Hello! Looking for some perspectives other than my own. Any benefits to doing it either way? ‘It’ being the use of dropout set screws (not pictured) vs not using them at all with the axle set at the furthest point back within the dropout (pictured). Any experiences or advice would be much appreciated. My thought is when set all the way back, it’s just the same as a normal QR dropout. Is that true? TIA —
Wheel sits straight in dropouts at rearmost point, may be distorted by camera angle in photos.
Doesn’t seem like I’d get much more tire clearance by moving the axle forward either.
QRx135 700c on a steel frame w/ 105 10sp. Caliper rim brakes.
by DQ-HotDog
5 Comments
Your totally fine
You’ll do just fine.
Yes it’s fine, part of the reason old school road bike dropouts were so long is the derailleurs of the time did not have the b-screw adjustment of modern derailleurs, and so shifting performance could be tuned by the position of the axle in the dropout.
It also allows you to adjust your effective chainstay length, which has an effect on handling, but if you’re not bothered about it no need to change.
One last thing, your caption says caliper rim brakes but that frame has cantilever posts. You might get a long reach caliper to work but standard short reach calipers will likely not reach the rims
10 speed Shimano stuff can be pretty finicky. Axle being that far back from the hanger could cause shifting issues – I’ve seen it before. No safety concerns though.
Derailleurs shift better if the length of chain between the top jockey wheel and the sprockets is shorter. Fitting the dropout screws will allow you to achieve that.