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  1. That cap can be removed with a large flat screwdriver, which should give you a bit more clearance so your ankle doesn’t hit. Beyond that, you could get pedal extenders or different cranks that are at more of an angle to provide better ankle clearance.

  2. You can pull that cap off it’s not what’s holding your crank arm on. You could also remove the pedal and add a washer to space it out slightly.

  3. Does this happen on the other side too? Asking because I don’t think it’s exactly symmetrical. Anyway, if you remove that cap, you’ll get a little bit more clearance for your ankle, but not a ton. I’d say wear high top shoes/boots, which you would likely do in the winter anyway. My suggestion is to adjust the way you’re pedaling to avoid hitting that spot. Every single year, in the spring when I switch to wearing sandals and take my first two or three walks in the woods, I stub my toes and it reminds me to avoid catching toes on roots and rocks. Hopefully you’re a faster learner than I am

  4. It looks like your style of riding would be served better with a wider q-factor crank.

    Generally modern bikes have wider q-factors, also because of the outboard bearings. Retro cycling Enthusiasts today are looking for that bit of efficiency that a narrow q-factor may give to some. But for you it might be the other way around.

    There are some wider q-factor crank which have protruding pedal arm and a contracted/flat center. If i remember correctly the white industries 90ies MTB cranks were like that, and the similarly shaped Fc-MC12 shimano Alivio and some altus 5arm cheap cranks. Also most M-wave singlespeed and MTB cranks have a reduced center like that.

    With square taper one could also experiment with wider BBs, but don’t go too far because the changing chainline can change shifting performance. Also i don’t think it will help you with clearance from that hub cap.

  5. Have you considered switching to clipless pedals and shoes with cleats.

    You can get trainers now with discreet spd cleats on the soles, so you can walk on them normally..

    They would hold your feet correctly on the pedal, which is parallel with the frame, and stop your ankle knocking on the spindle..

    Also great for cycling if course..

    Just a thought

  6. CharlieHorsePhotos on

    Do you use the kickstand often? The cheapest solution would be removing that as it seems to be what your ankle is striking.

  7. Ditch those plastic things and get clipless pedals. The clipless wont pet your foot move at that angle and are more efficient. Cheaper is probably a piece of duct tape.

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