If you’re really talking budget, you should looking into surly corner bars or something like that. Otherwise, you would need to change your entire drivetrain.
bats-are-best on
Find your local community bike shop, second hand parts and folks to help you do the work yourself keep low
surviveToRide on
Some affordable, but modern shaped drop bars are a must. Something like the ones Dimension sells, or Blue Lug’s house brand. You want a shallow drop and relatively short reach. Don’t get something from the 90’s or 2000’s. Drop bars honestly sucked back then.
Bar end shifters. Microshift, so some research to get the right ones, or get friction.
You’ll find some brake levers. Just don’t get something with integrated shifters
GeminiTitmouse on
Yeah… don’t do it cuz it’s pointless and dumb lol problem solved on budget!
drewbaccaAWD on
On a budget.. scour local market places.. FaceBook, Craigslist, etc. and try to find pull offs. Search Ebay for good deals on new old stock. It all depends on what you can find.
I’m in the camp that using a good alt bar makes more sense than a full drop bar conversion on a bike like this. Nothing against experimenting which I think is great, but it’s better when you have boxes of parts laying around and a few drop bars in hand already to toy around with.
Does that bike have a 7 speed freewheel? or is it newer? Anything will work with friction but if you want something relatively modern and indexed you might need to budget for a new wheel too.
Diligent-Advance9371 on
My tip is don’t, but I realize that’s a personal decision. I have 3 still hoodie mounted and tape wrapped drop bars hanging in my personal shop as decoration, that were on my bikes. That’s what you’re up against as you need the hoodie type brakes as a minimum if you go bar end shifter. Usually a bit cheaper then going with the fully integrated shifter/brake hoodie. Then you need to learn bar wrapping, an art, not a science.
Kyro2354 on
Just get alt bars, otherwise you’ll have to change way more and it’ll be more expensive and a pain, plus the geometry isn’t fitting for drop bars most likely
General-Pen1383 on
if you’re certain the bike is gonna fit with those stupid long 90s top tube, bar end shifters and drop brake levers would be your friend. if you have a local co op, i’d recommend going there for even more cost savings
bananas500 on
I made a dropbar conversion with new parts from Aliexpress. You can check the final result in my profile.
You don’t have to change the brakes and drivetrain. All you really need to match the amount of gears and find the compatible manufacturer.
The bar – 40 euros, shifters/breaker leavers – 40 euros, bar tape – 6 euros (but do not cheap out on the bar tape as I did), front deraileur inline cable tensioner – 3 euros. This is all you need for the beginning. You can change the bar stem later if you find your current stem uncomfortable.
I never driven a drop bar bike before. I noticed that with current brake setup I need to pull the lever more than before to have the same braking power.
I am happy with the result, would do this again with my next bike.
chainringtooth on
Make it Singlespeed is the cheapest solution. You essentially only need a drop bar and brake levers for drop bars.
OldSchoolWillie on
You can get 3×7 micronew drop bar brifters on aliexpress for $30. Get a seat of gravel drops for around $50, add in $60 for a stem, tape, and quill adapter and you’re good to go.
But I’d personally just run alt bars
2nickels on
NORMALLY I would recommend against a drop bar conversion. But the multitrack(especially a beautiful lugged 750 like this) is deserving and able.
Get you a short road style quill stem (cheap and easy to find) then whatever bars strike your fancy. Then go get some claris brifters off eBay for $100.
The only tricky part here is the front derailleur and crankset. I’d go (and have gone several times) to 2×7. Keep everything stock out back and maybe update the crankset to a road double. I always go to the FSA adventure crankset. It’s less than $100 but you could probably get something from Amazon or second hand marker for much cheaper.
I’ve done several multitrack drop bar conversions. It’s well with the effort.
owlpellet on
Reduce stem by ~50mm to achieve similar reach. If this puts the flats on top of the headtube, you’ll get some weird handling there.
Riser drops exist (Surly Truckstop etc), and will get you a bit of lift that you’re currently getting from your stem
Single-Sentenc3 on
This isn’t really as dramatic as people make it out to be. Drop bars, Tektro brake levers, whatever bar ends, should get you across the line.
simplejackbikes on
Don’t. Geometry will be shit. And you will spend way more than you think.
ApprehensiveText6913 on
Buy a cheap half decent road bike off market place and just swap and change things around until your happy, but I’d try and buy a cheap gravel bike and leave this as is save all the head ache
Soy_neoN on
I recentl y bought micronew STIs from aliexpress. Now I have a 3×8 “gravel bike” with 26″ tyres and drops bars. I really like driving it and I don’t understand why most people here hate in it…
jkakua on
Reuse your shifters, sometimes you’ll get wrapped around the axles about a shifting solution. If you’re keeping it relatively stock other than the drop bars, just put the rapid fire shifters a little further inboard than you would on flat/alt bars so you have more area to wrap for grip. This assumes you aren’t running a gravel race on it and can afford to move your hand 3 inches to shift without breaking your aero position. Grip shifters work well for this too ( go ahead and roast me for mentioning them)
OGbigfoot on
Get bars, get brake levers, if you want brifters that will be your most expensive parts. Bar end shifters are cheaper and more versatile but not everyone’s cup of tea.
I have an old Raleigh MTB that I’m probably gonna put drop bars on, but I already have 9 SPD brifters in my parts bin so for me I need to either throw on some canti brakes or get some problem solvers for the v brakes. You’re already set with cantis so you’re good there.
LongApprehensive890 on
Don’t. This bike was designed around flats.
Klieve1 on
Aliexpress and you’re sorted really cheaply. One of the various ltwoo set ups depending on what you want. They’ve got a mix of 2x and 1x. Some cheap bars, I got some cheap 15mm rise bars on aliexpress and they’ve been well alright for like 15 quid. Then a shorter stem, again aliexpress less than a tenner so you can play around
Shortest stem with decent rise I got on aliexpress was 50mm with 30 degree rise. They’re all so cheap though you can buy a few to experiment
JEMColorado on
Source parts from a bike coop, if there’s one in your area.
ahongo on
If you want to convert this frame, and it fits you, don’t. Even with the shortest stem and shortest-reach drop bars, the reach will be too long.
Drop-bar bikes have shorter top tubes to compensate for the additional forward reach created by drop bars’ [ramps](http://lovelybike.blogspot.com/2012/06/drop-bar-hand-positions-introduction.html?m=1) and hoods. If you’re converting a flat-bar bike, you’ll want to start off with a frame whose reach is about 3cm too short for you. So if this bike fits and the top tube measures ~56cm, find a ~53cm frame.
nobbytk950 on
It’s a scalable project of course and it depends on your budget and how fancy you want to get. The bike runs now and needs nothing to conquer gravel and light trails. That’s what it was designed for. But you can easily dump in way more money than the bike is worth. Make your choices and ride!🤙
korkkis on
Surly corner bar and bar tape
fivewords5 on
I used microshift brifters with my 1995 Specialized Hardrock GS. They had the same pull ratio and integrated all my existing drivetrain and brakes. I also got lucky on some shimano pro gravel drop bars for cheap.
26 Comments
If you’re really talking budget, you should looking into surly corner bars or something like that. Otherwise, you would need to change your entire drivetrain.
Find your local community bike shop, second hand parts and folks to help you do the work yourself keep low
Some affordable, but modern shaped drop bars are a must. Something like the ones Dimension sells, or Blue Lug’s house brand. You want a shallow drop and relatively short reach. Don’t get something from the 90’s or 2000’s. Drop bars honestly sucked back then.
Bar end shifters. Microshift, so some research to get the right ones, or get friction.
You’ll find some brake levers. Just don’t get something with integrated shifters
Yeah… don’t do it cuz it’s pointless and dumb lol problem solved on budget!
On a budget.. scour local market places.. FaceBook, Craigslist, etc. and try to find pull offs. Search Ebay for good deals on new old stock. It all depends on what you can find.
I’m in the camp that using a good alt bar makes more sense than a full drop bar conversion on a bike like this. Nothing against experimenting which I think is great, but it’s better when you have boxes of parts laying around and a few drop bars in hand already to toy around with.
Does that bike have a 7 speed freewheel? or is it newer? Anything will work with friction but if you want something relatively modern and indexed you might need to budget for a new wheel too.
My tip is don’t, but I realize that’s a personal decision. I have 3 still hoodie mounted and tape wrapped drop bars hanging in my personal shop as decoration, that were on my bikes. That’s what you’re up against as you need the hoodie type brakes as a minimum if you go bar end shifter. Usually a bit cheaper then going with the fully integrated shifter/brake hoodie. Then you need to learn bar wrapping, an art, not a science.
Just get alt bars, otherwise you’ll have to change way more and it’ll be more expensive and a pain, plus the geometry isn’t fitting for drop bars most likely
if you’re certain the bike is gonna fit with those stupid long 90s top tube, bar end shifters and drop brake levers would be your friend. if you have a local co op, i’d recommend going there for even more cost savings
I made a dropbar conversion with new parts from Aliexpress. You can check the final result in my profile.
You don’t have to change the brakes and drivetrain. All you really need to match the amount of gears and find the compatible manufacturer.
The bar – 40 euros, shifters/breaker leavers – 40 euros, bar tape – 6 euros (but do not cheap out on the bar tape as I did), front deraileur inline cable tensioner – 3 euros. This is all you need for the beginning. You can change the bar stem later if you find your current stem uncomfortable.
I never driven a drop bar bike before. I noticed that with current brake setup I need to pull the lever more than before to have the same braking power.
I am happy with the result, would do this again with my next bike.
Make it Singlespeed is the cheapest solution. You essentially only need a drop bar and brake levers for drop bars.
You can get 3×7 micronew drop bar brifters on aliexpress for $30. Get a seat of gravel drops for around $50, add in $60 for a stem, tape, and quill adapter and you’re good to go.
But I’d personally just run alt bars
NORMALLY I would recommend against a drop bar conversion. But the multitrack(especially a beautiful lugged 750 like this) is deserving and able.
Get you a short road style quill stem (cheap and easy to find) then whatever bars strike your fancy. Then go get some claris brifters off eBay for $100.
The only tricky part here is the front derailleur and crankset. I’d go (and have gone several times) to 2×7. Keep everything stock out back and maybe update the crankset to a road double. I always go to the FSA adventure crankset. It’s less than $100 but you could probably get something from Amazon or second hand marker for much cheaper.
I’ve done several multitrack drop bar conversions. It’s well with the effort.
Reduce stem by ~50mm to achieve similar reach. If this puts the flats on top of the headtube, you’ll get some weird handling there.
Riser drops exist (Surly Truckstop etc), and will get you a bit of lift that you’re currently getting from your stem
This isn’t really as dramatic as people make it out to be. Drop bars, Tektro brake levers, whatever bar ends, should get you across the line.
Don’t. Geometry will be shit. And you will spend way more than you think.
Buy a cheap half decent road bike off market place and just swap and change things around until your happy, but I’d try and buy a cheap gravel bike and leave this as is save all the head ache
I recentl y bought micronew STIs from aliexpress. Now I have a 3×8 “gravel bike” with 26″ tyres and drops bars. I really like driving it and I don’t understand why most people here hate in it…
Reuse your shifters, sometimes you’ll get wrapped around the axles about a shifting solution. If you’re keeping it relatively stock other than the drop bars, just put the rapid fire shifters a little further inboard than you would on flat/alt bars so you have more area to wrap for grip. This assumes you aren’t running a gravel race on it and can afford to move your hand 3 inches to shift without breaking your aero position. Grip shifters work well for this too ( go ahead and roast me for mentioning them)
Get bars, get brake levers, if you want brifters that will be your most expensive parts. Bar end shifters are cheaper and more versatile but not everyone’s cup of tea.
I have an old Raleigh MTB that I’m probably gonna put drop bars on, but I already have 9 SPD brifters in my parts bin so for me I need to either throw on some canti brakes or get some problem solvers for the v brakes. You’re already set with cantis so you’re good there.
Don’t. This bike was designed around flats.
Aliexpress and you’re sorted really cheaply. One of the various ltwoo set ups depending on what you want. They’ve got a mix of 2x and 1x. Some cheap bars, I got some cheap 15mm rise bars on aliexpress and they’ve been well alright for like 15 quid. Then a shorter stem, again aliexpress less than a tenner so you can play around
Shortest stem with decent rise I got on aliexpress was 50mm with 30 degree rise. They’re all so cheap though you can buy a few to experiment
Source parts from a bike coop, if there’s one in your area.
If you want to convert this frame, and it fits you, don’t. Even with the shortest stem and shortest-reach drop bars, the reach will be too long.
Drop-bar bikes have shorter top tubes to compensate for the additional forward reach created by drop bars’ [ramps](http://lovelybike.blogspot.com/2012/06/drop-bar-hand-positions-introduction.html?m=1) and hoods. If you’re converting a flat-bar bike, you’ll want to start off with a frame whose reach is about 3cm too short for you. So if this bike fits and the top tube measures ~56cm, find a ~53cm frame.
It’s a scalable project of course and it depends on your budget and how fancy you want to get. The bike runs now and needs nothing to conquer gravel and light trails. That’s what it was designed for. But you can easily dump in way more money than the bike is worth. Make your choices and ride!🤙
Surly corner bar and bar tape
I used microshift brifters with my 1995 Specialized Hardrock GS. They had the same pull ratio and integrated all my existing drivetrain and brakes. I also got lucky on some shimano pro gravel drop bars for cheap.