3 months ago I left my home in Belgium and started cycling north. Germany, Denmark, Sweden and Norway were all amazing countries to cycle through and hopefully Finland, my next country, will be too.
In southwest Germany I cycled the European Divide Trail through a region with the nickname ‘land of a thousand hills’, and it was as magical as it sounds. Felt like I was teleported into a hobbit village from lord of the rings. On the other hand, it was hot and my legs were not ready yet for the uphill.
I did like Denmark more because of the white beaches, the laid-back atmosphere and the free shelters. At this point I stopped cycling on the European Divide Trail because I wanted to see the Danish islands and Copenhagen. The first month of my journey it did not rain at all, so I slept a lot on the beaches without pitching my tent. The free shelters were amazing because they often had a designated fireplace. I don’t carry a stove so if I want to eat something warm I have to make a fire or go to a restaurant. Often these fireplaces had a grill so I made a lot of spareribs and hamburgers.
Then I took the ferry from Helsingør to Helsingborg and started cycling the west coast of Sweden up to Oslo. This is also where I started coming out of the ‘honeymoon phase’. Honestly this part was kinda boring but I cycled many days with a bikepacker I met in a Danish shelter and we smoked loads of weed so it was still fun. Oslo was quite traumatizing. Someone pissed on my bike and stole my chips and knife while I was in the library.
The Norwegian fjords were amazing, first time I saw fjords or mountains like that in my life. But they were also physically demanding. My knees got fucked up many times so I had more rest days. I met another German bikepacker while cycling the Rallarvegen, a beautiful off-road cycling route. I was longing for more singletrack so I planned a little route between 2 national parks and it was just amazing (picture 11 & 12).
After Norway, I had this crazy idea to cycle a part of the Kungsleden, which is Sweden’s most popular long-distance hiking trail. I could tell it was going to be a challenge from all the hikers who filmed me and asked to take pictures at the starting point. 5 km’s in and I was already catapulted over my handlebar onto the rocks. Almost turned back but had faith it would get better, and it did. Still a lot of hike-a-bike involved but some sections were amazing, especially the downhill. After 150km I was sick of it though, the rain wouldn’t stop, it was so muddy, the rocks slippery, and I got sick. So I started cycling east to Finland. That was 5 days ago, still feeling a bit weak but I think I’ll get back on the bike tomorrow.
I’m pretty excited about Finland because it’s apparently very flat and mostly gravel roads through pine forest. I could use a break from the mountains. From Helsinki I will take the boat to Estonia and ride the Swamp Thing Trail, then Latvia, Lithuania, Poland, Slovakia, and if there’s not too much snow by then, Austria and Switzerland.
by StormTravels
1 Comment
Six months? Crazy!!! But you will have great stories to tell.
I entered the midnight gravel race last year in Finland and would recommend going through the archipelagos, although doing it alone might be a bit boring as you say. Be careful with the mosquitoes, they leave a big mark, you might want to get some mosquito spray in a pharmacy. Helsinki is an amazing city.