I’m trying to install a brand new Cues U4010 crankset and a BB MT501 on an old Scott MTB. I installed the BB with the spacers required for 68mm bottom bracket (the previous one was a square taper). I followed Shimano’s instruction for the crankset, tightened everything but I still get this 2 to 3mm movement that will cause me problems with the front derailleur. The crank is fully sitted on the BB, I don’t feel any play in the crank itself. Any idea where it could come from ?
Cheap cranks with cheap chainrings have wobbles. It can be straightened but it’s typically not really a problem.
K-M_ on
Thks for the answer, it’s indeed cheap … So it would be an acceptable mouvement ?
You say it could be strainghtened, do you know how ?
Tks,
K-M_ on
Tks for the answers,
Well I reinstalled everyting, tried to install the FD and i’m struggling ( like I always do with FD ) to get everything perfect. The wobble of the chain doesn’t make it easier but I’ll keep trying and if I struggle too much i’ll see if I can return it.
Tageloehn on
Just return it and demand a straight one. Even if it doesn’t rub now it may do so in the future.
No need to put up with subpar components just because Shimano doesn’t get it’s QC right.
Re7isT4nC3 on
Reinstall it again if it is square tapper bb. It should not be that bad. Try mounting crank arm differently, turn it 90 or 180 degrees from where it is now. I know that it is annoying and that it will force you to reinstall left side too. It won’t ever be perfect but that’s way too much. It could be also issue with bottom bracket. I had to replace my bottom bracket once I ruined it by tightening bolts too hard. And then my woble almost went away with new bottom bracket
RokenIsDoodleuk on
I have a 22 year old bike with it’s original chainrings, the biggest one is off by much more; guessing about 5mm off-centre at it’s worst. The only thing that really happens with untrue chainrings is they make a lot of noise when the chain rubs against the front derailleur cage.
Of course it’s very annoying when something is this out of it’s supposed position straight out of the box. I would opened a dispute/sent it back, but if that’s tio much of a hassle I would leave it, and just order new chainrings.
For the more experienced people here, I have a question; is it enough to change the chainrings when this is the case? Or do the bearings also need to be replaced if it’s still off?
7 Comments
Hi,
I’m trying to install a brand new Cues U4010 crankset and a BB MT501 on an old Scott MTB. I installed the BB with the spacers required for 68mm bottom bracket (the previous one was a square taper). I followed Shimano’s instruction for the crankset, tightened everything but I still get this 2 to 3mm movement that will cause me problems with the front derailleur. The crank is fully sitted on the BB, I don’t feel any play in the crank itself. Any idea where it could come from ?
(here are the shimano instruction for the BB and crankset [https://si.shimano.com/en/dm/LAFC001/install_crank](https://si.shimano.com/en/dm/LAFC001/install_crank) )
Tks,
K
Cheap cranks with cheap chainrings have wobbles. It can be straightened but it’s typically not really a problem.
Thks for the answer, it’s indeed cheap … So it would be an acceptable mouvement ?
You say it could be strainghtened, do you know how ?
Tks,
Tks for the answers,
Well I reinstalled everyting, tried to install the FD and i’m struggling ( like I always do with FD ) to get everything perfect. The wobble of the chain doesn’t make it easier but I’ll keep trying and if I struggle too much i’ll see if I can return it.
Just return it and demand a straight one. Even if it doesn’t rub now it may do so in the future.
No need to put up with subpar components just because Shimano doesn’t get it’s QC right.
Reinstall it again if it is square tapper bb. It should not be that bad. Try mounting crank arm differently, turn it 90 or 180 degrees from where it is now. I know that it is annoying and that it will force you to reinstall left side too. It won’t ever be perfect but that’s way too much. It could be also issue with bottom bracket. I had to replace my bottom bracket once I ruined it by tightening bolts too hard. And then my woble almost went away with new bottom bracket
I have a 22 year old bike with it’s original chainrings, the biggest one is off by much more; guessing about 5mm off-centre at it’s worst. The only thing that really happens with untrue chainrings is they make a lot of noise when the chain rubs against the front derailleur cage.
Of course it’s very annoying when something is this out of it’s supposed position straight out of the box. I would opened a dispute/sent it back, but if that’s tio much of a hassle I would leave it, and just order new chainrings.
For the more experienced people here, I have a question; is it enough to change the chainrings when this is the case? Or do the bearings also need to be replaced if it’s still off?