I’ve just gotten new wheels from elite. After installing them I tried to turn the cranks and lift the bike by the saddle, when I noticed that it wobbles up and down. I’ve removed the tire and tried it again (the video).
I tried measuring side to side/front and back wobbles with toothpick on the frame. It doesn’t look much, maybe 1mm left/right and 0.5mm front back.
Should I have the wheels trued again, or is it maybe problem with weight? The wheels did come with metal tubless valve, but I removed it? Could there be anything else wrong?
Longjumping-Pie-6410 on
Looks fine to me, it might be slightly out of round, but it’s impossible to tell from this perspective with the bike wobbling.
The wobble probably comes from a slight weight inbalance. You can get counterweights or lead tape if it bothers you, but you can just ignore it.
miasmic on
No it looks like weight balance, and that doesn’t matter if you have the wheel on the ground rather than in a stand
Major_Huckleberry569 on
It’s perfect! This “pulsing” motion of the bike is expected when you spin the wheels on the bike stand as most wheels are unbalanced by a very small margin mass-wise. As long as the wheel is true then all should be fine. When you’re riding, your weight will be enough to dampen this motion and you won’t feel it. Have fun!
toiletclogger2671 on
looks perfect to me. the pulsating effect is just because it’s in the stand. if you hold the bike it should pretty much disappear, but even then it looks good
Mihsan on
The most straight I have ever seen.
nhluhr on
It’s infeasible to judge trueness or roundness when the wheel is spinning that fast. What are you actually asking? Are you concerned about the bouncing? Refer to the 8 other threads week.
clacksy on
On a side note… Is the loud hissing noise normal with these hubs? Or is it the brake? The cassette? Or is it a combination?
I worked on my own bikes for a couple of years now but never encountered such a loud wheel. Can someone enlighten me if this is normal on this setup?
HowardBateman on
They’re perfectly fine. Such wobble comes from imbalance in the wheel. A welding seam or even the stem hole could cause this problem if it’s not countered on the other side.
But it doesn’t matter as long as you’re on the road. Almost every wheelset wobbles on the stand.
Beluga-ga-ga-ga-ga on
OP, are the rims aluminium? Aluminium rims are sometimes joined with pins (welder rims have an internal sleeve to locate the two sides of the rim extrusion) which causes a slight imbalance. The seam is, as far as I know, always 180⁰ from the valve hole, so when a tube and tyre are mounted, the weight of the pins (or sleeve) is offset by the valve. Assuming your rims *are* aluminium, the wobble is probably because there’s no tube installed. You’d probably still see some amount of wobble with the tyre and tube on, as it’s not going to be *perfectly* balanced, but it’s not an issue.
P.S.
If you want to check the trueness of a wheel, hold a zip tie, or something similar, against the frame or fork so that the end is not quite touching the rim (hold it against the sidewall of the rim for lateral trueness, or against the outside edge, with the tyre and tube removed, for radial trueness) and then spin the wheel. You’ll be able to see any out of true sections by the rim seeming to move closer to/further away from the end of the zip tie. With aluminium rims, there’ll often be a slight wobble by the seam. And don’t forget that equal spoke tension is as important, possibly more so, than trueness.
brookegravitt on
And not to add to the din, but I used to have a Garmin speed sensor on my rear hub which would make it crazy out of balance and wobble like this. I slid it around to sort of offset the tubeless valve stem, and that helped. But in the stand virtually every bike we have here does that wobble to a degree, but if you stick them on the truing stand they’re pretty bang-on good.
11 Comments
I’ve just gotten new wheels from elite. After installing them I tried to turn the cranks and lift the bike by the saddle, when I noticed that it wobbles up and down. I’ve removed the tire and tried it again (the video).
I tried measuring side to side/front and back wobbles with toothpick on the frame. It doesn’t look much, maybe 1mm left/right and 0.5mm front back.
Should I have the wheels trued again, or is it maybe problem with weight? The wheels did come with metal tubless valve, but I removed it? Could there be anything else wrong?
Looks fine to me, it might be slightly out of round, but it’s impossible to tell from this perspective with the bike wobbling.
The wobble probably comes from a slight weight inbalance. You can get counterweights or lead tape if it bothers you, but you can just ignore it.
No it looks like weight balance, and that doesn’t matter if you have the wheel on the ground rather than in a stand
It’s perfect! This “pulsing” motion of the bike is expected when you spin the wheels on the bike stand as most wheels are unbalanced by a very small margin mass-wise. As long as the wheel is true then all should be fine. When you’re riding, your weight will be enough to dampen this motion and you won’t feel it. Have fun!
looks perfect to me. the pulsating effect is just because it’s in the stand. if you hold the bike it should pretty much disappear, but even then it looks good
The most straight I have ever seen.
It’s infeasible to judge trueness or roundness when the wheel is spinning that fast. What are you actually asking? Are you concerned about the bouncing? Refer to the 8 other threads week.
On a side note… Is the loud hissing noise normal with these hubs? Or is it the brake? The cassette? Or is it a combination?
I worked on my own bikes for a couple of years now but never encountered such a loud wheel. Can someone enlighten me if this is normal on this setup?
They’re perfectly fine. Such wobble comes from imbalance in the wheel. A welding seam or even the stem hole could cause this problem if it’s not countered on the other side.
But it doesn’t matter as long as you’re on the road. Almost every wheelset wobbles on the stand.
OP, are the rims aluminium? Aluminium rims are sometimes joined with pins (welder rims have an internal sleeve to locate the two sides of the rim extrusion) which causes a slight imbalance. The seam is, as far as I know, always 180⁰ from the valve hole, so when a tube and tyre are mounted, the weight of the pins (or sleeve) is offset by the valve. Assuming your rims *are* aluminium, the wobble is probably because there’s no tube installed. You’d probably still see some amount of wobble with the tyre and tube on, as it’s not going to be *perfectly* balanced, but it’s not an issue.
P.S.
If you want to check the trueness of a wheel, hold a zip tie, or something similar, against the frame or fork so that the end is not quite touching the rim (hold it against the sidewall of the rim for lateral trueness, or against the outside edge, with the tyre and tube removed, for radial trueness) and then spin the wheel. You’ll be able to see any out of true sections by the rim seeming to move closer to/further away from the end of the zip tie. With aluminium rims, there’ll often be a slight wobble by the seam. And don’t forget that equal spoke tension is as important, possibly more so, than trueness.
And not to add to the din, but I used to have a Garmin speed sensor on my rear hub which would make it crazy out of balance and wobble like this. I slid it around to sort of offset the tubeless valve stem, and that helped. But in the stand virtually every bike we have here does that wobble to a degree, but if you stick them on the truing stand they’re pretty bang-on good.