yep, looks good like that. what’s up with all the grease?
toddlikesbikes on
OEM they came without housing at all so you definitely install that way.
It’ll likely feel a little better if you get a small length of inner housing in there, like one pulled from a v-brake noodle.
schlass on
Do you have a housing stop at the entrance of that sleeve?
_MellowGold on
I believe they had a small nylon/plastic section of cable liner that went through that guide from the factory that was flared on one end so it stayed in place. I would do something like that but it’s probably not necessary.
Working-Promotion728 on
Deconstruct a short segment of shift housing and pull the plastic liner out of it: shave the outer sheath off with a knife and pull the linear strands out. Use that liner inside that metal tube for the brake cable. You’ll need to replace it occasionally because it will get worn down, but makes the brake operation smoother while preventing the cable from sawing through the side.of the seat tube.
Vast_Web5931 on
Use a sleeve for that bend otherwise you’ll feel it every time you pull the rear brake. Also those smooth post canti brakes can be a bit tricky to set up if you’re unfamiliar. I find it works best to set them to the lowest spring tension and then mount the wheel sans tire to set reach, angle and toe-in. I have also used a bar clamp to hold both calipers against the rim to complete the adjustment.
Icy_Discount_6511 on
I have a similar setup on a 95 Trek 950. Mine is cable on bare metal in there and it seems to work fine, brakes don’t feel like there is excessive friction.
7 Comments
yep, looks good like that. what’s up with all the grease?
OEM they came without housing at all so you definitely install that way.
It’ll likely feel a little better if you get a small length of inner housing in there, like one pulled from a v-brake noodle.
Do you have a housing stop at the entrance of that sleeve?
I believe they had a small nylon/plastic section of cable liner that went through that guide from the factory that was flared on one end so it stayed in place. I would do something like that but it’s probably not necessary.
Deconstruct a short segment of shift housing and pull the plastic liner out of it: shave the outer sheath off with a knife and pull the linear strands out. Use that liner inside that metal tube for the brake cable. You’ll need to replace it occasionally because it will get worn down, but makes the brake operation smoother while preventing the cable from sawing through the side.of the seat tube.
Use a sleeve for that bend otherwise you’ll feel it every time you pull the rear brake. Also those smooth post canti brakes can be a bit tricky to set up if you’re unfamiliar. I find it works best to set them to the lowest spring tension and then mount the wheel sans tire to set reach, angle and toe-in. I have also used a bar clamp to hold both calipers against the rim to complete the adjustment.
I have a similar setup on a 95 Trek 950. Mine is cable on bare metal in there and it seems to work fine, brakes don’t feel like there is excessive friction.