Currently running wax on my drive train, but would like to switch to a dry lube (t-9 boeshield), do I need to boil all my stuff to get wax off, or can I just start applying it?
by StonedSorcerer
Currently running wax on my drive train, but would like to switch to a dry lube (t-9 boeshield), do I need to boil all my stuff to get wax off, or can I just start applying it?
by StonedSorcerer
4 Comments
Couple questions here.
1. Are you waxing your chain by cleaning it first and then re applying wax? Or are you using a wax lube? Because if it’s the first one, you’re waxing your chain incorrectly. You should be cleaning it completely off before re-waxing.
2. Why would you switch if you are using actual cleaning/heating wax/dipping to any sort of chain lube? Your drivetrain will stay exponentially cleaner if you keep waxing. It’s a bit of a time suck, but frankly for the wear and tear on parts, it’s worth it.
If you’re using a wax lube, my questions are irrelevant. And all you need to do is go to an LBS and either get a chain degreaser, and let your chain sit in that for like 20/30 minutes then just clean the crap out of it. And you’re good to apply your new lube (you can also go to a hardware store and pick up simple green. Does the same thing and cheaper, plus you get the added bonus of being able to dilute it and clean your bike! Win win!) hope that helps!
Wax IS dry lube…
Just slap on the new stuff and you’ll be fine.
The dry lube in dropper bottles is just wax dissolved in a solvent.
Boeshield is just paraffin wax in an oil immersion. The oil evaporates, leaving a thin paraffin film. You could wax your chain like normal, and do a simple touch up with Boeshield as needed.
I use prolink on customer bike for decades. Tune up are simple, wear and tear at minimal, and quieter drive trains. T9 is just as good. Drip on wipe off and never look back. Great in cable housing.