TLDR: Loosen spokes and realised that the rim is not straight, are they saveable?
So full story is, this is a single speed rear wheel. i tried to true the wheel but i realised that there will be spokes with max tension and some with low tension no matter how much i balance the tensions.
And at those point where left spoke tensions were high, the right spokes had low tensions. I could not compensate and lost. Then i loosen all the spokes to find that the rim was so fucked to begin with.
So is this saveable? Im still learning how to true wheels!! Tips and tricks buddies š„¹
by TheEvanz
18 Comments
I donāt know the answer to your question but I just wanted to congratulate you on posting such a good quality visual aid (in this case a video) to go along with your question
Ya got a pro truing stand, I’d say Yes.
I’ve witnessed similar scenarios and was informed by those who know more than me that the rim is damaged beyond repair.
Even if you manage to true the wheel to perfection, the spoke tensions are going to be very heterogeneous and the wheel will be weak
So why did you loosen the spokes?
This is why you need to read/research before doing something!
The rim is most likely fine, but the spokes need to be fully loosened all the way around and then re-tensioned properly. This would require a stand and the proper tools IMO, but at this point it looks like youāve just gone for it.
The Bicycle Wheel by Jobst Brandt (spelling?) is a good place to start!
I think it probably is. Before you waste time, check the brake track to make sure there hasnāt been too much wear before putting the effort in. With a flat tool or piece of metal, put it up against the brake track and with a flash light behind it, see how much light is coming through. If thereās a crescent depression and you can see lots of light, itās probably not worth the effort. If thereās very little light and the brake track is flush with the metal, full send.
Do you have a dishing gauge or a tensiometer?
It is, search ‘how to true bike wheel’ park tool videos are great.
It’s probably a lot easier to just replace the rim. It will never be strong if the tensions are super imbalanced. One trick is to tape the replacement rim to the old rim (line up the valve holes) then just move each spoke over directly rather than replace the whole thing.
I think this looks like that rim and it’s only $80 https://carsoncitybikeshop.com/rim-h-son-700c-622×17-6-archetype-24-bk-msw/?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw1emzBhB8EiwAHwZZxTA0hRvhegdf1jvzjR4v37XoQ_Vs5mXWS3RbLOJ6iJYjpZGFE46BohoCnHUQAvD_BwE
Probly get it close
Wow, I think from the video quality alone youāll do fine, no tire on rim āļø video stable and not shaky āļø rim mounted on a stable stand to avoid excess movement āļø you seem to have a good head on your shoulders, I think youāll be able to complete this with a couple instructional videos from youtube
Where is your stand from? Sorry I canāt offer any advice!
you can probably get it close to true if not fully true
Park had a spoke depth tool to start spoke nipples. No sure if it’s available anywhere. It’s basically a flat tip screwdriver with a little point that extends to the middle of the nipples. You would loosen all spokes and spin them tight until the point pushed the screw driver off the nipples. Then you work your way around. Have seen one in awhile. Perhaps a wheel builder in the group knows where to get one.
I’d say yes. Easier with a spoke tension thingy so you can get it even the first round then thighten it to spec incrementally.
Probably easy to find recommanded tension for a h+son rim.
Also that might be the elephant in the room but you sure you have the right spokes length?
The Ali Clakson YouTube videos on wheel building and truing were the easiest for me to follow. He also shows how to use one half of the truing stand to check dish (flipping the wheel in the truing stand).
Basically:
1. Lube the nipples
2. Get the nipples to a consistent spot (e.g. same amount of spoke threads showing on each spoke/nipple)
3. True the wheel laterally (side to side), but not to full tension
4. True the wheel radially (up and down / eggness), but not to full tension
5. Dish the wheel
6. True laterally, radially, then make sure spoke tension is consistent.
Make small adjustments when you start truing, and donāt over think it. 1/8 turns worked well for me: it took a long time, but I didnāt get overwhelmed.
Good luck, youāll get it!
Yea you can probably get that pretty straight. Spoke tension will be a problem, and it will probably not be a great wheel. Make sure you use loctite on the spoke threadsā¦the loose ones will want to unwind even more.
If the rim is bent out of shape with no tension, the spoke tensions require to make it a decent circle will be pretty wack. You can likely get it tru enough to run for awhile before you get a new wheel
No matter how straight it is from the factory, after lacing a brand new rim, it’ll most definitely be a wobbly clown wheel.
Undoing tension on all spokes will also make it wobbly since it’s not detensioning evenly.
The tension and balancing tension between the spokes is what keeps it true.
Drive wheels are also going to have more tension on one side than the other.