For gravel ultra racing, bikepacking etc. I’m looking for ways to make the steeper off-road pinches a little less painful then they are currently.
My current set up:
A Factor LS with:
• Ultegra 11s Di2 Front Derailleur
• Quarq Dub Crankset
• Quarq DFour Dub AXS Spider Powermeter
• A GRX Di2 Rear Derailleur
• An 11-40 XTR Casette
For my daily riding without the extra race weight/baggage it’s perfect, but for longer sustained efforts the 11-40 and front chainring combo require me to put out well over 300w on the steep stuff to maintain a comfortable cadence.
How can I make this more manageable without changing my crankset and breaking the bank?
My thoughts are
• Try an 11-42 XT Casette (if needed adding something like a goat link) – I’ve seen that being implemented here (link)
• Or switching to a set of Absolute Black sub-compact 48/32 or 46/30 oval chainrings
I prefer round chainrings aesthetically but haven’t found any that would work with the 4 bolt pattern I need and the compatability with the crank.
Am I missing something? Inspiration would be greatly appreciated 🙏🏼. I don’t suppose I can just use standard GRX chainrings with that crank can I? I also have a GRX Di2 Front Derailleur on the way purely for tire clearance reasons. Would that help here too?
by thecoolkidsaredoinit
9 Comments
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Don’t clamp the top tube, especially on carbon. Use the seat tube.
I would switch to a subcompact. I’m not the type of rider to measure my watts or something, but I’ve been very happy with my new crank. Simpler than fussing with derailleur hanger extenders or different derailleurs as well.
Few blokes I’ve seen have done RTW trips with Panniers and shit with 46/30 11-34 or 42t 10-42 if you could go 46/30 11-40 that should easily be adequate. You may even be able to go 46/30 11-42 with wolf tooth, have no clue about your groupsets compatibility though
You didn’t specify what your chainrings are, I assume 50/34?
Go oval, it’s absolutely superior.
They make an 11-46 11-speed XT cassette. Not sure how big GRX can handle, but I’ve run them on MTBs when I wanted more gear. Or you can swap for smaller chainrings – just swap the chainring and keep current crank.
Race machines aren’t supposed to have easy gearing
Do you want/need to keep the power meter?
Smaller front chain rings. I run 1x on my road and gravel bikes. Have a 42t chain ring up front and an 11-42t rear.
More than enough for where I live that’s mostly flat. If I was climbing I think I’d go with a 36-38t up front