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_pr00f on
Kinda random but I see the most mainstream competitor to this as the Canyon Grizl, and honestly it’s a no brainer to get the YT szepter over the Grizl in my humble opinion.
Not crazy about the front fork but it’s probably not too much heavier than your average aluminum/carbon fork. You can lock it out, right? If you are hitting mostly unpaved surfaces it makes sense but I’m definitely in the world of full rigid/carbon fork + fat, low psi tires with low rolling resistance as opposed to a shock. That’s because it hits all the boxes for me as someone who does a lot of pavement in between getting rowdy on rough terrain.
It’s a beauty anyways, but I hope those “mud guards” are removable (please remove them).
claythatweighsaton on
Lights – for road safety I’d get Cycliq Fly 12 front and Fly 6 rear. They are both a camera and day-light visible light. I have a set and I’ve done several long events with them (50 miler gravel rides) and had no issues with batteries dying.
If you are planning on extending your season well into fall and even winter, I’d get something like the Nite Rider Lumina Pro 1200 front and VMax 150 rear.
A helmet light is worth it when riding fast at night because it sets up a shadow and you can see the depth of features you are riding towards/over. Lighter (ba dum ching – but meaning weight here) is better on your helmet. It is amazing how heavy a stupid little light is on top of your head. Something like the Nite Rider Pro 1800 Race that has a cord to a separate batter pack is great for this. Throw the battery in a jersey pocket or a hydration backpack.
3 Comments
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Kinda random but I see the most mainstream competitor to this as the Canyon Grizl, and honestly it’s a no brainer to get the YT szepter over the Grizl in my humble opinion.
Not crazy about the front fork but it’s probably not too much heavier than your average aluminum/carbon fork. You can lock it out, right? If you are hitting mostly unpaved surfaces it makes sense but I’m definitely in the world of full rigid/carbon fork + fat, low psi tires with low rolling resistance as opposed to a shock. That’s because it hits all the boxes for me as someone who does a lot of pavement in between getting rowdy on rough terrain.
It’s a beauty anyways, but I hope those “mud guards” are removable (please remove them).
Lights – for road safety I’d get Cycliq Fly 12 front and Fly 6 rear. They are both a camera and day-light visible light. I have a set and I’ve done several long events with them (50 miler gravel rides) and had no issues with batteries dying.
If you are planning on extending your season well into fall and even winter, I’d get something like the Nite Rider Lumina Pro 1200 front and VMax 150 rear.
A helmet light is worth it when riding fast at night because it sets up a shadow and you can see the depth of features you are riding towards/over. Lighter (ba dum ching – but meaning weight here) is better on your helmet. It is amazing how heavy a stupid little light is on top of your head. Something like the Nite Rider Pro 1800 Race that has a cord to a separate batter pack is great for this. Throw the battery in a jersey pocket or a hydration backpack.
Good luck and sweet bike, by the way.