Yes, very normal. Aluminum cassette + steel cogs results in damage. Should be fine to ride though.
BasketNo4817 on
Normal yes. Though not desired.
If issues putting on or removing cassette grab yourself a good filing tool to gently smooth out the rough edges back inwards. Works like a charm.
FarAwaySailor on
Hmm, my bike isn’t like that. Do you perhaps ride it like my children – stamp, pause, stamp, pause, stamp, pause etc…? That banging you are hearing is the pawls whacking the ring-gear and the cassette whacking the splines on the freehub body.
mtbboy1993 on
Yes, it happens on aluminium freehubs.
Yonoteveny the cassette getting stuck you file iy down, use a smooth file, and make sure to file whole side of each spline to assure aligned cassettes, cogs
At the top lightly file in rotating motion.
Once it’s worn so much the splines are too thin replace the freehubs.
Some hub makers have hubs with steel inserts.
Some offer steel freehubs.
I fyou have to work on a hub where the cassette is stuck it will be nice to have two of Pedro’s Visewhip 2. Then you can work each section of a multi piece cassette loose. No need to use a hammer then. I’ve not tried that yet. But that’s my reasoning for buying two.
But on my enduro bike I have a Garbaruk cassettes so it has only two contact points to the splines. So won’t need that with this cassette.
Chahtadude on
If you’re having issues in seating cogs where they belong in the lineup, just use some 80 grit emory cloth on it to ease down the raised points
kil0ran on
Normal but sometimes made worse by people not following torque specs for the cassette lockring (45Nm for Shimano I think — aka b*stard tight). If it gets bad you might need to wiggle the cassette on and off side by side. I put both thumbs on the axle with fingers behind the cassette and pull alternately side to side. Usually works well enough as a puller. Or tap very gently with a mallet and punch on the back of the cassette.
peterwillson on
Use a torque wrench to tighten up the cassette properly and it won’t happen.
7 Comments
Yes, very normal. Aluminum cassette + steel cogs results in damage. Should be fine to ride though.
Normal yes. Though not desired.
If issues putting on or removing cassette grab yourself a good filing tool to gently smooth out the rough edges back inwards. Works like a charm.
Hmm, my bike isn’t like that. Do you perhaps ride it like my children – stamp, pause, stamp, pause, stamp, pause etc…? That banging you are hearing is the pawls whacking the ring-gear and the cassette whacking the splines on the freehub body.
Yes, it happens on aluminium freehubs.
Yonoteveny the cassette getting stuck you file iy down, use a smooth file, and make sure to file whole side of each spline to assure aligned cassettes, cogs
At the top lightly file in rotating motion.
Once it’s worn so much the splines are too thin replace the freehubs.
Some hub makers have hubs with steel inserts.
Some offer steel freehubs.
I fyou have to work on a hub where the cassette is stuck it will be nice to have two of Pedro’s Visewhip 2. Then you can work each section of a multi piece cassette loose. No need to use a hammer then. I’ve not tried that yet. But that’s my reasoning for buying two.
But on my enduro bike I have a Garbaruk cassettes so it has only two contact points to the splines. So won’t need that with this cassette.
If you’re having issues in seating cogs where they belong in the lineup, just use some 80 grit emory cloth on it to ease down the raised points
Normal but sometimes made worse by people not following torque specs for the cassette lockring (45Nm for Shimano I think — aka b*stard tight). If it gets bad you might need to wiggle the cassette on and off side by side. I put both thumbs on the axle with fingers behind the cassette and pull alternately side to side. Usually works well enough as a puller. Or tap very gently with a mallet and punch on the back of the cassette.
Use a torque wrench to tighten up the cassette properly and it won’t happen.