So I have this circa 1998-99 Salsa La Cruz cross bike that I and my LBS built mostly from used parts, which I would like to upgrade. Mostly I trail ride with my MTB but have more friends that gravel ride (paved/gravel/dirt roads no real trails) and are encouraging me to get a gravel bike to join them. This Salsa would work but I really want lower gearing: currently it’s a 3x (30, 42, 50) with an 11-23 cassette and my old legs suffer.

I would like to:
1. convert this to a 1x with much lower gearing, and maybe
2. Install a carbon fork with a front disc brake (and no other reason than I thought it would be fun and interesting), but IDK if a 700c 1 inch steerer carbon fork with adequate tire clearance is even available

I thought this would be a good sub (the creativity and resourcefulness here amazes me) to ask if any of the above is feasible or desirable, or if I should just go the N+1 route (I do like the idea of reusing what I can, and I also really like this frame)

Thanks!

by Uncasredux

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12 Comments

  1. i_like_it_raw_ on

    I say no to the fork/brake setup. It’s dope as is. I’d ride it like it was back in style. Hot color, too. 1x white industries g30 crank and chainring. Maybe some GRX if you wanna “restomod”(ugh i hate that term) it and get it into the 21st century drivetrain world.

  2. simplejackbikes on

    How many cogs in the back? An easier solution may be just to upgrade the rear derailleur so that you can run a larger cassette. Alternatively run a smaller 3x crank. 26-36-48 or 22-34-44 for example. Perhaps even a combination of both. Can probably even keep your old shift/brake levers.

    Converting to 1x would require replacing most of the bike…. Shifters, derailleur, crank, BB, cassette, chain, hub/wheel. And you might not even get as much gear range as an upgraded 3x(?)

    This bike is a absolute beauty by the way! You should also fix the front brake housing/hanger. The ferrule looks to be broken and the threaded adjuster is crooked.

  3. You’re worried about your old legs and you want to go from 3x to 1x? That doesn’t make sense.

  4. gyroismyhubby on

    Easiest is to get smaller chainrings upfront. A 22-32-42 will get you some low gearing without sacrificing top end. Big problem with 1x is getting a good range without insane jumps between gears. Especially on older bikes.

  5. ofbaldmenandbikes on

    That bike looks awesome! My advice would be try to just get a wider range cassette (maybe rear der. if necessary) and then upgrade to a nicer tubeless wheelset and tires. That will make a much bigger impact than the fork

  6. Far-Office-657 on

    Ride that thing the way it is! That’s a primo frame. If I were really adamant about changing the gearing, I’d go with a compact double. I’m always looking for one of these frames. It’s cool to see one in such good shape!

  7. nomadinreverse on

    I’m with (most) everyone else – don’t change more than you have to – this thing is awesome. Leave the fork alone and get a higher range cassette or better geared (for you) crank.

  8. Going to join the chorus here- I’d throw a wider range cassette and derailleur in the back (this era shimano, road and mtb play well together- so find a mountain 8? 9? whatever you have on there casssette and derailleur, they should work just fine with your existing brifters.

    You could probably swap the crank out for a 24/38 double (rivendell makes one, or a sugino XD would do it) and maybe a narrower BB and get a good respectable gravel range- could use the front derailleur you have and just narrow the limits to fit, or swap to a double. Is 2x as cool as 1x?

    Anyway, that’s probably the cheapest, easiest way to get what you’re thinking of.

    honestly, that era you’re lucky it has bottle cages!

  9. You could do the carbon fork, disc brake, and 1x conversion, but it will spoil the otherwise cohesive vintage aesthetic of this bike, and still not perform as well as a bespoke gravel bike…If you’re going to “upgrade” this one, I’d advocate for doing it cheaply, without spoiling the aesthetic; if you like it but want more, it will be easier to sell this one and get something bespoke/modern.

    If you get good pads and really dial in the angle of your straddle wire, you can get excellent power and modulation out of that canti brake. Also the steel fork is probably more compliant than any carbon one you’ll find today.

    If your derailleur works with the current gearing, that means it has a [capacity](https://support.sram.com/hc/en-us/articles/6496285693339-What-is-the-total-drivetrain-tooth-capacity-of-SRAM-RED-or-Force-eTap-AXS-rear-derailleurs) of at least 32.

    IIRC, Shimano 7sp road cassettes mexxed out at ~28, which means your derailleur will probably put up with a 30t low cog as-is. If you get a [hanger extender](https://fitwerx.com/wolf-tooth-roadlink-derailleur-hanger-extender-review/), your low cog limit should go up to 34.

    If you install an [11-34 cassette](https://www.ebay.com/itm/115949297328?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=bf2_fonKQ5S&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=N9dI4EMTTfW&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY) and take off the 50t ring (either get single-stack bolts or swap it for a bash guard), then your drivetrain’s required capacity will become 35 ([42 + 34] – [30 + 11] = 35) which is only one tooth more than the capacity the derailleur is currently supporting, which will *probably* work. This new drivetrain will yield a 49% lower low than your current drivetrain! The highest high gear in this new drivetrain will be 26% lower, but—in my experience—the 42/11 ratio is still plenty tall to keep up with a fast pack in a tailwind; I only spin that one out on steep descents when I should just aero tuck anyhow.

    In summary, keep the fork, remove your big ring, get a bigger cassette and a roadlink (or a [knockoff](https://www.ebay.com/itm/394737710689?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=or8mtdzoqqu&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=N9dI4EMTTfW&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY) roadlink), maybe a chain with one more link. Enjoy spinning up steep hills at a reasonable cadence, keeping your bike’s classic aesthetic, and saving a ton of money and time.

  10. rogerwnelson on

    I have a similar bike with an 8 speed rear end. I put an xtr 9s der on it, Shimano 600 8s stis a 34/46 r500 crank and an 11/36 8s cassette. Range for days!

  11. Just throw a mountain cassette and derailleur on the back. An xt 11-30 cassette will be a much bigger drop than you’d get from any chainring swap.

    It’ll also be cheap. I could probably send you an old xt or equivalent derailleur. That stuff lasts forever. Should work with your shifters too as it all had the same pull ratio.

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