On double peg grinds, the Crank arms get in the way. Creating a pivot point between the front and rear pegs. In the video i think I landed on the Crank arm and then it slipped to the back peg.
I have noticed it throwing my balance off as I try to lock in or when i do lock in it slides weird with that pivot point. I can see my self slipping off something the more confident I get. I am going to switch peg sides to save the sprocket and chain
What’s a good way to get that front peg lower? To raise my bb height?
Longer forks?
What’s the measurements I should look at for forks?
New frame with better geometry?
Thinking I went too big with the 26 but I don’t spin and really like the size and distance per pedal vs the 20″
I am recovering from a pretty bad back and neck injury so back posture is important.
maybe I’ll have to ride a few 22″s
The 24″s I find all have this same problem.
All suggestions welcome and appreciate your input.
FitBikeCo CR26
26″ bmx. Are there any unique or common ways to raise bottom bracket height?
byu/6bic6kle6 inbmx
by 6bic6kle6
5 Comments
I don’t think there’s anything you can do about it unless they make some gnarly extenders to get the pegs further out. It’s all solid rigid metal. Nothing to adjust. Those bigger bikes weren’t really thought of to be used in a such a way so the bottom bracket drop is there to help with general stability while going fast.
Switching sides will help. And maybe plastic pedals and use the peg side pedal to balance the fulcrum effect
Any suggestions on building a 20″ as big as possible? I already need to replace my frame and have 10″ bars.
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Suggestions on making this easier to hop?
29″ forks?
I have a pride street main frame in size medium for sale if you’re interested, it’s a 24″ jump bike but it is one of the only ones specifically designed with a bb high enough for grinding.