That bike has threaded fork and headset, so new fork must be also threaded. I can’t really see if that fork on the right is threaded or threadless.
You can also change the headset so your bike would accept threadless forks, which are much more common now.
Affectionate_Ad8155 on
I somehow can not see your linked comment, so I am gonna try and help you anyway. It looks like your current fork is a 1 inch or 1 1/18 inch THREADED fork, compatible with the current quill stem. I believe 1 inch is more common. I cant tell from the photo for sure, but if the black fork does not have THREADS near the top, this will not work!
If the black fork does have threads, you should be good to go but I would still advise against buying it. You are essentially suggesting to put a mountainbike fork with cantilever brake mounts (and as it seems additional disc brake mount) on a roadbike that currently has a v-brake. You would need to make major adjustments to the whole brake assembly.
Also pay attention to fork rake (how much the blades of the fork curve forward from the crown). The black fork seems to be straighter so it will at least impact steering or in the worst case the tire will not even fit into the bike anymore.
Your bike has a 1″ fork (the shaft width) and it’s threaded (the headset is tensioned with a big nut at the top). It’s hard to tell from the picture, but the modern fork looks like 1″ 1/8 and I don’t see threads. 1″ is non negotiable. Thread-less is negotiable if you manage to find a 1″ aheadset stem which is rare, or you can use a regular 1″ 1/8 stem with an adapter shim, but it’s a bit ugly to have a fat stem on a skinny steel bike IMO.
sexy_viper_rune on
You need to take the current fork off, measure the steerer and how from the bottom of the steerer the threaded section extends then find a 1 inch threaded fork with a steerer of at least that length and with enough threads on it. That fork doesnt look like the threads extend low enough (if it has any at all) so you wont be able to install your headset once its cut to length. (plus replacing a lugged fork with unicrown welded one is a crime in my eyes)
BlhiteTTR on
If it fits, you’ll have to change your breaks as well, because it’s a different type of mount
6 Comments
That bike has threaded fork and headset, so new fork must be also threaded. I can’t really see if that fork on the right is threaded or threadless.
You can also change the headset so your bike would accept threadless forks, which are much more common now.
I somehow can not see your linked comment, so I am gonna try and help you anyway. It looks like your current fork is a 1 inch or 1 1/18 inch THREADED fork, compatible with the current quill stem. I believe 1 inch is more common. I cant tell from the photo for sure, but if the black fork does not have THREADS near the top, this will not work!
If the black fork does have threads, you should be good to go but I would still advise against buying it. You are essentially suggesting to put a mountainbike fork with cantilever brake mounts (and as it seems additional disc brake mount) on a roadbike that currently has a v-brake. You would need to make major adjustments to the whole brake assembly.
Also pay attention to fork rake (how much the blades of the fork curve forward from the crown). The black fork seems to be straighter so it will at least impact steering or in the worst case the tire will not even fit into the bike anymore.
I would maybe suggest a fork more like this one: [https://www.amazon.de/-/en/Cr-Mo-Road-Thread-Shaft-Chrome-Plated/dp/B017XYI19W](https://www.amazon.de/-/en/Cr-Mo-Road-Thread-Shaft-Chrome-Plated/dp/B017XYI19W)
Also Chrome just looks so dope on vintage bikes…
Your bike has a 1″ fork (the shaft width) and it’s threaded (the headset is tensioned with a big nut at the top). It’s hard to tell from the picture, but the modern fork looks like 1″ 1/8 and I don’t see threads. 1″ is non negotiable. Thread-less is negotiable if you manage to find a 1″ aheadset stem which is rare, or you can use a regular 1″ 1/8 stem with an adapter shim, but it’s a bit ugly to have a fat stem on a skinny steel bike IMO.
You need to take the current fork off, measure the steerer and how from the bottom of the steerer the threaded section extends then find a 1 inch threaded fork with a steerer of at least that length and with enough threads on it. That fork doesnt look like the threads extend low enough (if it has any at all) so you wont be able to install your headset once its cut to length. (plus replacing a lugged fork with unicrown welded one is a crime in my eyes)
If it fits, you’ll have to change your breaks as well, because it’s a different type of mount
That dont gonna fit