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  1. The left pedal is reverse threaded, turn the spanner as if you want to tighten it.

  2. TrojanGoldfish on

    To remove the pedal, use the spanner flat at the inside of the pedal (next to the crank arm). It’s reverse threaded, so clockwise to loosen.

    Looking at the pedal, it may need some encouragement to loosen- penetrating spray if you have it, WD40 if you don’t.

  3. It’s a common mistake, so don’t worry.
    Tip, if you can sit behind the bike, facing the rear wheel, hold the back wheel with one hand, and pull the pedal wrench towards you. This gives you the best control, most strength, and saves you bashing your knuckles on the chainring.

  4. TheDaysComeAndGone on

    The pedal on the non-drive-side (left side of the bike) has a left handed thread. So make sure you turn in the right direction. Drive side has a normal right handed thread.

    Use plenty of WD40 or some other penetrating oil and a good spanner. Finding the right angle and body position to apply maximum torque helps a lot. I wouldn’t do it on a repair stand, just put the bike on the ground and lean over it. If it won’t budge at all you could even take the crankarm off and put the pedal into a vice.

    Make sure you install the new pedals with plenty of grease so it’s easier next time.

  5. Revolution647 on

    If you hit it with a brazing torch which is relatively cheap the metal expands or you can get some Leverage also use a cheater bar.

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