Currently training for my first race in a few months – Inverness Etape. My friends think I’ll struggle racing this 1994 Colnago Decor 8 Speed around the loch and up a fairly steep incline.
Anyone have experience with climbing and racing old steel/low geared bikes?
It’s my only bike so I’ve got no other option.
12% gradient 400m elevation – what could possibly go wrong?
by app13-ju1c3-
14 Comments
I’m not a racer, but what I know having grown up on the age of steel bikes is that the wheels make more difference than anything. Steel frames are 3 lbs heavier which doesn’t make much difference, but 36 spokes and aluminum rims will be somewhat slower. If you want to make a “most bang for buck” difference find some ultralight tires, I’ve been using Maxxis High Road SLs at 170gr and urethane tubes at 38gr. You can drop 175 grams at each rim where the spinning weight is most extreme. It’ll cost $200. The tires are thin and you don’t get a lot of miles out of them, keep your existing tires for riding. Maybe you are already running racing tires. You’ll be at a very small mathmatic disadvantage, but maybe you’re a few seconds faster or slower to begin.
I think the gear range is your biggest hindrance. Newer groupsets have a much wider range.
The bike itself is fine. If you need lower gearing, you could find a cheap compact crankset with a 36 or 34.
Have you ridden the course with your current set up?
It’s not an actual race, so you don’t have to stress about getting dropped on the hill. Just go your own pace. Can you practice it beforehand?
Find some hills and see what it feels like. Find out what’s the largest cassette you can fit, might be able to squeeze in a 30. And fast tyres. Cool bike!
*Edit: you can also calculate your top speed with that big chainring. Of you never get close to 70kph you probably don’t need something that big. Getting a different set of cranks that can take smaller gears would be an easy way to get lighter gears.
But be warned, this is how it starts. Next thing you know you’ll have boxes of bike parts under your bed
i havent officially raced, but when i was in shape i could climb hills with friends on new carbon fiber fancy bikes on my 1985 cannondale, no problem. I was typically faster than them due to gearing options (lack of).
i also road a late 70s schwinn le tour on a casual century once and had someone approach me to warn me off from trying/doing it cause of the age of my bike. Fuck that. I’ts no problem man these sorts of bikes (and way worse) were ridden on TDF for ages.
If Tim Moore can do the 1917 Giro on a bike from that era with 2 gears that you have to remove the back wheel to change, you can do this. Will it be easy? No. But I ride my heavy 1980s BSA (52/42) and my slightly lighter Raleigh Royal (48/38/28) around the hills near Leeds without normally having to get off and push and I’m not particularly fit.
The bike was good enough to ride that same course in 1994, no?
Go for it! I raced in the 80’s on a similar bike in California, my gearing was 13-18/42-53. We had ridiculously steep grades of 20% . I’m still here, it didn’t kill me, it won’t kill you.
I ride old steel bikes. My two cents is that what holds them back is the components. 52/39 cranks with a max cassette cog of 25-27 teeth was the norm, and rear derailleur’s weren’t designed to accommodate more than that.
Fortunately the frame spacing on many of them, including yours, can accommodate modern drivetrains. An old steel frame with a modern 10 or 11 speed group set is really fun to ride and shouldn’t hold you back at all.
Beautiful bike…..
Incorrect, Colnagos are timeless 😉
The problem with racing vintage bikes is that racing = crashing. Just part of the game. You will be best served by finding a high quality japanese frame or US frame (less desireable, lower cost) that is one or two steps below the top spec bike from that model’s year. If it’s made with Tange/Champion 2, Ishi 022, 531, true temper, it’s practically the same weight and quality as Columbus SL. Hell even Tenax is good enough.
Also, you’re going to be throwing money at this bike. Cheapest/lightest wheelsets around are the Mavic Krysium. Find a lightly used pair, true them up well, use latex tubes and high quality tires. Spread/straighten the rear dropouts to 130mm. Use a modern 50/34 crankset with 12-27, or whatever your preferred drivetrain combination. You definitely can get 50/34 with a vintage crank, but it’ll be a 110bcd. Apologies if this obvious, some people on this sub are very ‘green’.
In order to get a 10 or 11 speed chain to work with a vintage 110 bcd crank, you’ll have to make sure that the spacing between the rings isn’t too large. Otherwise the chain will get stuck.
**edit: Apologies, I didn’t even read the text, just the title.** You’re fine with that bike. 39 x 28 is no problem. I used to run around with 42 x 24 as my lowerst gear. Just train. How old are you?
I have that same bike with 10 speed. I absolutely love it for the 35mi 3500ft elevation ride I do regularly. For your first race I think you should ride what you’ve got. You’ll probably either blow everyone away because you’re just strong or you’ll blow the race because you’re a noob regardless what bike you’re on.
39×28 is really not that bad. If you’re under 200lbs, you’ll probably be fine. If you’re over, maybe consider getting a compact crank.
I looked at the event, a Sportif isn’t really a race, especially outside of the “A” group. Just take it easy on the climbs. Sit and spin as much as possible. Back off on the effort when you start to feel it; don’t be a hero and blow your legs up. 66mi isn’t nothing, but it’s not a huge ride. Eat before you’re hungry, drink before you’re thirsty.
You definitely want to invest in some modern performance tires, looks like you have some Panaracer touring tires on there now. Those are hard wearing, designed for flat resistance and longe life.
I like Continental 5000 tires. Get the biggest ones that fit in the frame; they’ll provide the most comfort and traction at a minimal cost to performance and efficiency. 700×25 should be about right.