I’ve been cycling from the top of Alaska to the bottom of Argentina for the past nine months, but in Guatemala ended up hospitalized with weeks of bedridden illness. Lost 11 kgs (25 lbs) and the stasis destroyed my spirit to continue. But instead of giving up completely, I decided on a short detour across New Zealand to regain some strength/inspiration for continuing south toward Patagonia.
Rebuilt the bike outside Auckland’s airport and visited Benny the Bike Butcher for some maps, which he kindly supplemented with one two three SIX beers. Benny also warned of “drop bears,” which I gathered to be something like drunk possums falling out of trees?
Ferry-hopped across peninsulas to ride the Maraetai Coast before doubling back for the feared Hūnua Traverse. It’s an extraordinary collection of gravel lanes, logging roads, and steady climbs atop endangered Kauri rainforest.
Fishtailing down from Hūnua Ranges along muddy singletrack, three days of incessant rain made for a tricky slough connecting Waikato River to the epic Timber Trail. I only flipped over the bars once. Camped in Chef Mason’s garden where we split bonfire beers and waxed poetic on our shared love of 90’s hip hop and Sambas (respect the NWA tee).
And by complete chance the Tour Aotearoa is happening right now, an annual bikepacking race across the totality of New Zealand from its northern tip of Cape Reinga to the bottommost southern Bluff. Local riders and I bump into each other daily, soaked-through and covered in mud, scavenging for food and dry spots to pitch tents. They assume I’m one of them, our grubby little Kiwi cycling family, ripe with kind company, sharing the same hunger.
by donivanberube
1 Comment
New Zealand performing its magic. I visited once in 2006, no cycling, but toured from tip to tip. I hope it restored your spirit the way it restored mine.