Lock to the wheel rim inside the rear triangle, or a wheel and a frame, not frame. Anybody with a 15mm wrench can pop that rear wheel out.
1_61803398875 on
You could leave that junk unlocked and no one would take it
RealDrDuncan on
Or, an asshat with a cordless angle grinder can still take it all in less that 8 min
genesRus on
B-. It’s good you posted because we can hopefully fix it with a couple of tweaks and $20! 🙂 You’ve got a great U-lock that’s both resistant to cutting and requires two cuts to open and is not too big so you won’t have to worry about jacks opening it. That said…
U-lock should go around the tire inside the rear triangle (orientation you have it, i.e. the Sheldon Brown method) OR you can rotate it 90 so it points forward and captures both the tire and the pole and the frame with the yellow bar pointing to the inside OR you can slightly twist the lock so it goes through the part of your rear triangle parallel to the ground and your chain plus spokes and the bar (I use this on my belt drive; it may not be suitable for chains and will get you a lot dirtier but can work better in some situations where there’s a crossbar low to the ground instead of a vertical bar).
The cable you have is quite thin. It’s better than nothing, but anyone determined can easily snip it with pocket shears (not even long ones, just the gardening-type ones you can fit in a pocket). It should be going through the frame, first off, but you should replace it with a noose-style thicker cable, e.g.
[https://www.rei.com/product/800078/kryptonite-kryptoflex-410-double-loop-cable](https://www.rei.com/product/800078/kryptonite-kryptoflex-410-double-loop-cable) where you just loop one end over the other around your front tire and then hook the other loop on the end over your U-lock. I used to attach both the cable and U-lock to my bike with a Huld-It before I got a basket.
If you live in a college town or large metro (which I’m guessing you do by the number of bikes around), I would also recommend using a lock of a different type (i.e. a folding lock, chain, or Titanium U-lock) in addition to the steel U-lock. You want your bike to appear more annoying than anything next to it if you’re leaving it out all day.
OpenWorldMaps on
The best strategy is to not be the easiest target. You are probably better just replacing quick release with some bolt on skewers and your bike will be fine with one lock especially if you park next to a fancier bike.
Jeanschyso1 on
good enough, I don’t see it getting stolen before another one. I would argue maybe that you’d want to loop that cable to the frame while you’re at it
6 Comments
Lock to the wheel rim inside the rear triangle, or a wheel and a frame, not frame. Anybody with a 15mm wrench can pop that rear wheel out.
You could leave that junk unlocked and no one would take it
Or, an asshat with a cordless angle grinder can still take it all in less that 8 min
B-. It’s good you posted because we can hopefully fix it with a couple of tweaks and $20! 🙂 You’ve got a great U-lock that’s both resistant to cutting and requires two cuts to open and is not too big so you won’t have to worry about jacks opening it. That said…
U-lock should go around the tire inside the rear triangle (orientation you have it, i.e. the Sheldon Brown method) OR you can rotate it 90 so it points forward and captures both the tire and the pole and the frame with the yellow bar pointing to the inside OR you can slightly twist the lock so it goes through the part of your rear triangle parallel to the ground and your chain plus spokes and the bar (I use this on my belt drive; it may not be suitable for chains and will get you a lot dirtier but can work better in some situations where there’s a crossbar low to the ground instead of a vertical bar).
The cable you have is quite thin. It’s better than nothing, but anyone determined can easily snip it with pocket shears (not even long ones, just the gardening-type ones you can fit in a pocket). It should be going through the frame, first off, but you should replace it with a noose-style thicker cable, e.g.
[https://www.rei.com/product/800078/kryptonite-kryptoflex-410-double-loop-cable](https://www.rei.com/product/800078/kryptonite-kryptoflex-410-double-loop-cable) where you just loop one end over the other around your front tire and then hook the other loop on the end over your U-lock. I used to attach both the cable and U-lock to my bike with a Huld-It before I got a basket.
If you live in a college town or large metro (which I’m guessing you do by the number of bikes around), I would also recommend using a lock of a different type (i.e. a folding lock, chain, or Titanium U-lock) in addition to the steel U-lock. You want your bike to appear more annoying than anything next to it if you’re leaving it out all day.
The best strategy is to not be the easiest target. You are probably better just replacing quick release with some bolt on skewers and your bike will be fine with one lock especially if you park next to a fancier bike.
good enough, I don’t see it getting stolen before another one. I would argue maybe that you’d want to loop that cable to the frame while you’re at it