How do I make this derailler not ride tightly on the largest cog (red arrow)? The green arrow bolt seems to do nothing.
by cervenamys
How do I make this derailler not ride tightly on the largest cog (red arrow)? The green arrow bolt seems to do nothing.
by cervenamys
7 Comments
More detailed description – when riding on the largest cog, the derailer is pressing the chain right against the cog, which is making an annoying tak-tak-tak-tak noise and shaking the entire derailer as it’s bumping against the cog.
I tried messing with the bolt marked in green, but it seems to have no effect. Could it be broken? Is there any trick I can try? I know this is a bottom of the barrel component, but surely there’s way to make it perform ok.
Tighten that green screw (the b adjustment) in, and it should push against the derailleur hanger, rotating the RD and creating a bit more gap between it and the cassette.
I think you can adjust to proper function. The green arrow screw (b tension) is the right adjuster. Tourney derailleur b-tension springs commonly don’t have enough tension for 34+ tooth cogs, but yours appears to be 3+ full turns too far out for your cassette. Check out Park Tool rear derailleur adjusting video for correct technique.
B screw, the one you got the green arrow on, tightening it a bit
Have a tourney on my cheapest commuter bike. Can confirm it sucks.
You need to adjust the b tension screw. However, this barely works on tourney derailleurs. If it becomes an issue, upgrade to an Altus or Acera. It’s all of $20 and will shift a lot better.
As everyone else has said, b limit is practically useless on tourney. I have had luck pulling the b limit out/ derailleur towards the front of the bike by shortening derailleur housing by an inch or two. Or if you have continuous just yank it out a bit further near the bars and make sure your zip ties are tight.