SARY-MOGOL

Seul, en Asie Centrale…
Sary-Mogol est le nom d’un col de haute montagne à 4310 m au Kirghizistan. C’est aussi le point de passage déterminant de Cédric Tassan, aventurier à VTT, qui a décidé de découvrir ces montagnes d’Asie Centrale, seul et sans aucune connaissance de la région. Ce documentaire est le carnet de bord d’une formidable aventure où se mêlent découverte, dépassement physique et rencontres marquantes. Ce voyage conduira les spectateurs des vallées verdoyantes du massif d’Alaï jusqu’aux neiges éternelles des montagnes Pamir.

SARY-MOGOL, un film de Cédric Tassan
47 min – UHD – Janvier 2022
Produit par VTOPO
Images : Cédric Tassan, Meder Myrzaev
Montage : Cédric Tassan
Mixage : Elory Humez (Label 42)

My name is Cédric Tassan. I am a mountain bike adventurer. For many years, I have travelled to the four corners of the earth. On a rush of blood to the head, I bought a return flight to Kyrgyzstan. Without any prior knowledge of the country, I decided to go it alone and discover,

With my bike and rucksack, the mountains of central Asia. It has taken me 3 hours to get up to this sodding pass! And I am completely bollocksed! I am flying towards the south of Kyrgyzstan. This is my third flight on leaving France and I’m flying over some huge mountains.

I have no idea what I will find once I get there. When I land at Och airport, I note there are some Ilyushin heavy airlifters that remind me that I am in an ex-USSR republic. We go further into Kyrgyzstan. There we are, we head into this valley,

It’s been a long day, but it’s truly awesome. But it’s in front of these steep mountains and cliffs that I am begin to have serious doubts. I see no paths or trails. I only discovered this destination just a fortnight before leaving. I didn’t have time to prepare my trip in sufficient detail.

And I get the impression that this valley is closing in on me like a trap. We finally get to my drop-off point, it’s incredible. It’s a little complicated, but thankfully there’s my driver who introduces me, but I’m in a bit of a fix as I only know a few words of Russian,

But here they speak predominantly Kyrgyz and I don’t know any kyrgyz, I fear that it’s going to be difficult. Anyway, here I am with this meal of? chai? Yes, chai. It’s tea. Before crossing the passes at over 4000 metres (13,000 ft) above sea level.

I am going to stay a couple of days here, in Mamat Jakrub’s house to acclimatise to the altitude Right, I am off and finally on my bike, I’m in at the deep end, no turning back now. It’s the day I’ve been waiting for. This morning, I take time out to rest.

I feel tired after the 35-hour journey get here. Before getting on my bike, I take the opportunity to get my drone out and do a reconnaissance of the countryside, see if the paths that I had imagined sitting at my computer in France really do exist. Salaam.

I take it slowly up a gentle climb opposite some colourful cliffs. There are no (other) tourists here. The valley of Jiptik Su and the village of Kojokelen are not part of Kyrgyzstan’s must see sites! And yet. After a long climb, I reach the heights and the view clears.

I am amazed by the landscape. It’s so peaceful. No noise from machinery to disturb this place. I continue along a ridge that takes me to a promontory. Wow, it’s so beautiful here! Wonderful, I rode along that ridge, Hey, not bad I have an incredible view across the whole valley.

And those red mountains behind me. It’s really beautiful here. I love it. A huge change of scenery, but the rain’s coming. I’m not sure really. It could stay like this all day. That’s a first thunderclap. It’s not good. I am above 2700 metres (8,800 ft).

I need to hurry as it’s raining, ah what’s that? I see a shepherd in in the alpine meadows. I go and ask him if I can shelter in his shed and he says yes. I hope that it’s OK. The rain! Where are you going? Kojo Kelen? Kojo Kelen. I’m Cédric.

What’s your name? Arkelbik How are you? Great. What’s that you are wearing? A camera! Right, I’m ready to go! Ready to ride! I leave my friend Arkelbik at prayer surrounded by this immense landscape. What will he remember of my visit? Him, living off so little? Is he happier than me?

I stand there for a moment lost in my thoughts. I continue my descent. The storm has passed. The quality of the trails surprises me I remain concentrated, because it will not take much to end up on the ground. And when the sun finally comes out,

It breathes new life back into the colours of this richly decorated landscape. I enjoy some spectacular views of the valley and use them to identify the rest of my route. What you have just come down, it’s so steep! Hello, You weren’t scared coming down that? No, it’s OK. I would have been frightened.

Once I get some kind of signal I use my smartphone to translate my French into Kyrgyz, as the few words I know of Russian are not enough. And for me who loves chatting, I’m frequently frustrated. Happily, smiles and laughs can replace words. Every Kyrgyz I meet wants to try my bike,

This mechanical steed replaces the traditional horse in the space of a moment. Great! Well that’s the first day over OK, so I didn’t do much climbing, but at least I’m getting myself well acclimatised. And it enabled me to see a bit of the country, and how it works.

And to see if what I had immagined possible (from behind my computer in France) is really feasible. Well, let’s say it looks it. And to be honest, this cultivated valley among those dark green tones of the valley floor. And those red rocks, it’s quite simply awesome. OK, I’m heading

Back home. Salaam! A feast for the Gods! Thankfully I hadn’t eaten much for lunch, just a few biscuits. And a compote. That looks so good Delicious even. Yesterday, I started late and got very hot on the first climb. So today,I’m going to catch the cool morning air,

I’ll get started once the sun’s rays break into the valley. I’m off for a new day’s discovery of the area. Hello! I don’t understand! I don’t understand! The locals don’t seem to understand what I’m doing there on a bike, so they keep stopping me to ask.

No no, you can’t go there on a bike You might think it’s not permitted, but no, not at all it’s just that to them, it seems complete madness. But him, he doesn’t agree! How are you? I’m good. Where’re you going? Hi, I’m Cedric. I’m Issa. I’m French! And I’m Kyrgyz!

Do you speak Russian? Just a few words. You won’t be able to ride a bike You know there’s no road where you are going. Don’t worry, I know! No. Yes I know that I’m taking a risk if this drink is contaminated, it’s the end of my trip.

But that’s also part of the adventure. It begins to rain. This time I take my poncho, so I can shelter myself if necessary. The beauty of the landscape! it’s unreal. I’m almost at 2900m (9,500 ft) Where are you going? Here! These are the brakes (“Tormoz” means brakes in Russian) Look where he lives!

His hut is over there. And he’s got all that to himself He must be the happiest man in the world! We are going to have a bite to eat. It (my helmet) looks good on him too! Here comes the bad weather I don’t know what I should do should I head down now,

Or should I wait here so that if it rains I can shelter with him. I think I might do that. I’ll wait and see. I follow Apti Salam in the direction of his house. He wants to show me where he lives.

He lives with his wife and two children in complete simplicity. His son welcomes me. The women, on the other hand, are more shy. I really don’t know what’s going to happen. I go in the house, it’s a very humble stone hut of just a few square metres.

There’s just one room used for everything. Dining room, lounge, bedroom and kitchen. Apti Salam’s daughter invites me to take the guest’s seat in the middle, opposite the entrance. I think that we are going go have lunch. it’s bread I try to understand.

But the truth is, unfortunately, Russian is of no use to me at all. Here, you have to speak kyrgyz. “Les oiseaux!” (I don’t understand very much) “Super pommes” (Well it sounds like that to me!) Spiderman! They prepare the kefir on a wood fire.

I am now friends with the dog that barked when I first arrived And I try to stroke it. Apti Salam’s daughter is now less shy. She even tries to get on my bike. You all right ? They give me some cheese, that’s really cool I’ll take it with me.

They are really nice. OK, I’ll leave them alone now. It’s time to get going. But this place is really beautiful. Salaam! OK, I’m going. If not I’ll never leave the place Like yesterday, the descent is awesome, the trail is very clear. I lose elevation very quickly. At the end, after a rapid descent

I reach a ridge high above the valley. it’s not very difficult, but the ground is slippery so I had better be careful. I can not afford to fall here as it would be disastrous Great, I’ve just got back in I need to prepare for tomorrow as it’s a big day ahead.

I got back in from my mountain ride and on getting back, I am offered some milk to drink, but, I’ve been taken in. because it’s well fermented, like beer ah it tastes like beer, alcohol milk alcohol. I give my bike a good clean. I remove some of the surplus mud

It will always do that, anyway, it’s less to carry. I’m attach my bar bag that contains my sleeping bag, night clothing, and spare gloves. This is another bag that is slung under the frame, it contains a spare tube, my Goretex sleeping bag overbag, and my survival ration, a few almonds.

There, the bike’s all set for tomorrow. Because tomorrow, it’s THE big day. In theory I should be properly acclimatised. I have to leave my cocoon and say good bye to Mamat Jakrub’s family, where I was so well looked after by his daughter Majima.

For my last meal with them, she has made me some fresh pasta. Tomorrow, I start my crossing of the Alaï mountains everything’s running through my head. Even if I take the bare minimum with me for this adventure. I’m worried about the total load weight The programme includes two passes

At over 3200 metres (10,500 ft) to cross and roughly 1500 metres (4,900 ft) of climbing. This pasta that she’s made me it’s so good, Delicious! Well, it’s not the same temperature this morning. I’m not very warm, but I’m going to eat my breakfast

It’s 6 a.m. and then I go, the big adventure starts today! I’m really excited Questions and doubts haunted me all night. It’s time to leave and face up to the challenge ahead of me. Action is the best cure. Will I make it over these mountains? What have I let myself in for?

I just know that I need to find my next host in the village of Kizil Chara after a very long day’s riding. He’s called Begali and was recommended by Mamat Jakrub. And with him I have to build a shelter in the mountains tomorrow night. If I want to manage everything on time,

I mustn’t get to his place too late this evening. Well, I’ve pushed the bike, now I have to carry it. But if I can take some of the weight off, that would be a different story I must be carrying 27 or 28 kilos on my back it’s difficult, but it’s breathtakingly beautiful!

Fortunately, the show is over there! I get to the first pass 1000 metres (3,280 ft) of climbing I am at 3150 metres (10,300 ft) Now I must go down into the valley and climb up the other side. Why not, do some freeriding there’s no longer a trail to follow

Not too fast because I need to see the groundhog holes. Ah that’s not bad! A good trail Hello! I’m Nourik Do you speak English? I’m Cédric and I’m French. Begali, he’s my dad. Really? You know me? You come from Mamat Jakrub’s home It’s an extraordinary face-to-face meeting.

You have to imagine that this young guy has walked tens of kilometres from where he lives to meet me. He’s Begali’s son, and I’m staying in Begali’s house tonight, he lives in the village of Kizil Chara. The boy show me into the family yurt

Where he spends part of the summmer with his mum. It’s such a peaceful place in the middle of this valley where time stands still. Everything is done here by brute strength. But there are animals everywhere. A real Noah’s Ark

I never thought I’d get here after slogging so hard to get through the mountains. It’s great, they are so lucky here. And most unlikely to find a yurt here Especially with someone who, who knew I would pass this way. it’s quite incredible. The telephone, not a case of Chinese whispers, but

It seems that the kyrgyz telephone to works well between the valleys, I had been a little bit worried. Well, this is how it’s going to be though in reality The Kyrgyz take very seriously the service they are asked to provide. Their word is their bond, and an appointment time is honoured.

A delicious omelette While waiting for the storm to pass, I’m going for a nap. See you in a while. I set off again, I’m still quite tired, but unfortunately I cannot stay here all afternoon. Ah those (damned) groundhogs! I’m shattered! I’m not making any progress

I’m exhausted, and I want to throw up I feel so sick and most importantly, I am not making any progress I have my doubts about tomorrow and for the days after. I must be doing 100 metres (330 ft) per hour

It has taken me 3 hours to get up to this sodding pass! And I am absolutely bollocksed. I rest for a few minutes, but it’s an approaching storm. I find myself in a valley at the end of the world.

The countryside is very different from the Steppes, here it is stony. I am looking for Begali’s house. I know it’s somewhere near the edge of the village. I’m looking for number 33 I hope that’s it! But Begali is not there, he doesn’t respond to my calls,

I start to have my doubts. Well, I’m just going to have to wait here Begali! Salaam, salam aleykoum Begali! Nobody That’s it. He eventually arrives and takes me to the showers, in his car! Because he doesn’t have a shower in his house.

He makes a few calls to be sure that the shower is free. I wait in a beautiful yurt and fool around with some impish kids But it’s as I was saying the guy has run me a bath, well, it’s not really a bath it’s a shower with a saucepan, it’s crazy.

It’s hot in there! The water. Shampoo and everything I need I can’t move because it’s so hot! in the shower! I’m cutting now because it’s personal. My night, a little short in sleep, but not too bad. We finished too late last night to begin to organise today’s ride.

Because we’ll have horses and donkeys, in short, a real campsite. I eat my breakfast but there’s too much and I can’t finish it! there’s fruit and peaches, probably from the valley and tomatoes and bread, and so much meat and of course kefir well, the plan is to disassemble the bike

And load it on the donkey. There we go. And me, well I’m on that nag over there. Today, it’s an easy day and we are going to climb slowly up to the camp, like that. It’s sensible as there is over 1500 metres (4,900 ft) of climbing.

And with all the equipment, it’s a little complicated. There’s the camp and everything else to take up. So there you are, it’s going to be some expedition! We are taking a few logs. and an axe. As there’s no wood up there where we are going

Personally, I think that we really need a second donkey. But everything goes on. I think that he’s overloaded, but no matter how much I tell him he wants this set up. But it appears, all the same, a little complicated. As I get on the horse I almost immediately fall off,

I am too enthusiastic. The only time I ever sat on a horse was 15 years ago, but it was just a bit of fun, I have never really ridden a horse. This is some baptism by fire. And some!

6 hours of climbing ahead of us up into the mountains to our camp at 4000 metres (13,000 ft). An adventure within an adventure As the first lorry passes, I am made acutely aware that horses are easily frightened. At the next encounter with a vehicle,

I know that I need to get off the road. Once in the mountains, I mistakenly thought that the horse would be less excitable. This was without reckoning on meeting donkeys or other creatures Thankfully, the young boy who accompanies us holds my horse firmly. We are at 3200 metres (10,500 ft) above sea level,

And there’s another 800 metres (2,600 ft) of climbing before we get to our camp. We stop for a short picnic The horse is put over there so that it can eat quietly The donkeys too are tied up We have unloaded everything. and we’ll be free to to picnic here, in this breathtaking countryside.

Begali makes it a matter of pride to lay a beautiful table. He carefully arranges the slices of mutton with the bread. And cuts some generous slices of fresh tomatoes and onions. We are close to the glaciers. Up above, the peaks reach 5000 metres (16,400 ft) I love my horse.

It is a magnificent and strong animal. I believe that we have forged a strong link between us, this evening, the young boy will, on his own, take it back down to the village. Good, we have reached the summit, at last, we have made fast time to reach the camp.

We are a little under 4,000 metres (13,000 ft), at roughly 3900 plus metres. It shouldn’t be too bad in the grass there, But we are likely going to be very cold tonight! Well, it’s going to be a rough night because my friend has a rotten mattress covered in lorry grease and whatever.

What the fuck! So, no mattress for me, I’m not sleeping on that. Fuck, sleeping without, without a mattress, I wasn’t expecting that! But thankfully, I’ve something in my back pack that might just save me. This sack has a removable element and which serves as a sort of mattress.

But then again, given my size and build, it’s probably only good for half a thigh! Ah, that really pisses me off! Though in the tent it’s slightly bit warmer, The light meal will do some good. Noodles and meat, cooked on a wood fire, with some bread. And then, well he comes over.

But he wants to eat outside, he’s crazy, so I tell him “no you eat with me inside”. I tell him that if it rains, then we will both die. Oh, some night’s sleep! And not that bad after all. On the other hand, there’s some frost, and ice on our shoes,

It wasn’t very warm. Thank you, thank you, thank you! So now I need to go, get moving, I don’t wait for the tea which I had asked him not to make It’s freezing, he will get so cold, he’d better get going too.

It’ll take him 4 hours to get back down with the donkeys he has already provided me a great service. I’m heading to the pass, get some sun in and then continue my adventure. I hope that I will see him again I say a last good bye to the donkeys

Without whom I would never have made it up here. I owe them that, at least. I leave Begali with in my line of sight the Sary Mogol Pass at a height of 4300 metres (14,100 ft). It’s an all important day for the rest of my trip.

I am all alone and appreciate this moment of solitude. I made it, I am at 4000 metres, 4010 metres and still climbing It’s the first time I’ve been at this height during this trip and it’s cool. I think that I must have acclimatised fairly well.

I had a good night, no vertigo and no headaches. Nothing unlike the poor Begali who had a really bad headache yesterday evening and yet he lives at a height of 2400 metres (7,800 ft) Which would suggest that I have managed my acclimatisation pretty well

But now I will need to take it easy as the last 300 metres (990 ft) to the pass will cost me if I go too fast. I am in the final part of the climb the boulders are covered with a thin layer of frost, which makes my progress a little slippery.

And above there’s still some snow, I hope I can avoid it. I’ve made it, I’m really there at Sary Mogol Pass 4300 metres (14,100 ft) above sea level! I don’t know what to expect after the passs Oh those mountains, it’s awesome! I discover what’s waiting for me beyond the pass.

I am so excited like a little kid on Christmas morning, And this valley that stretches out for as far as I can see, is like a gift, just for me, but it’s also a critical moment for the rest of my adventure. Because anything can happen during the descent.

I’ve been riding now for two hours and haven’t eaten anything since yesterday evening. But I am so concentrated that I am not hungry. I need to be careful as the terrain is stony. It’s not easy to follow the trail, it disappears among the boulders. I must avoid falling.

But cycling at 4000 metres (13,000 ft), it’s huge! Even though my back pack is not very heavy, I am, all the same, less mobile on the bike. I’m in a field of stones, and they are so sharp they’ll slice through a tyre, or rip off a derailleur.

I need to remain concentrated, find the best way through, the best trajectory I wasnt expecting that, having to shoulder the bike, small climb. Another pass at 4000 metres (13,000 ft) to get over but in theory it shouldn’t take me too long. Well, it’s taking me longer than I thought it’s shit,

As I have to walk. There’s some damn torrent I must cross. I go forward to have a look, I can’t see how I’m going to cross it. There’s a sort of path but it’s mega steep, But it’s not for me, it’s out of the question that I take it.

A stroke of luck, as I identify a crossing point below. I’m not sure if it’s a way through or not, A sort of a path, but I’m not sure. As I’m alone I am worried about crossing the river, well that, it’s fairly small I’ll have wet feet but that’s no big deal

I just hope that there’s nothing larger to wade through. After a little freeride, with no apparent path to follow, I find at last the right trail. I’m pleased to find the kindness of Mother Nature under my feet. I love that. Sitting at my laptop in France, identifying

My route, I had noted this gorge. So I knew that the gorge marked the end of the difficult parts of this trip. But on this adventure, the real finish line corresponds with the airport and the plane back to France. But that is still further ahead. But for me the trail ends here,

Afterwards there’s a long track. The valley is very long, 20 kilometres (12.5 miles) long before getting to the village. I don’t want to get my shoes wet. So I rummage in my back pack for my secret weapon, my flip flops! And my knee protectors OK, not very fashionable, but, very practical!

The current is very strong It’s absolutely crazy! I need to get out quickly, at last. My feet are frozen. It’s almost 1 p.m. and I haven’t eaten anything. I’m getting ravenous so I get stuck into a cake. I’ve come from right over there, at the furthest end of that valley full of yaks.

The smell of the great outdoors. Ah, civilisation, at last! Hello Il took me an hour and a half to ride the twentry kilometres. It would take 7 hours if walking. That’s what I like about bikes. It puts perspective into time frames. I reach the yurts. The Kyrghyz are semi-nomadic.

They come here in the summer and return to their villages to affront the cold of winter. Because in these valleys, the thermometre can drop to -40° C. Like a painted decor, Once at the end of the track, I discover the enormity of the Pamir chain of mountains.

It’s a visual slap in the face. I come up against a barrier of ice and snow, 100 kilometres (62 miles) wide. The culminating point is Lenin Peak that tops out at 7134 metres (23,400 ft). And I’m going right over there. This landscape brings with it an epic day to end.

I suddenly realise that I haven’t drunk very much since this morning. The air has become very dry. I arrive in the dusty village of Sary-Mogol. And I’m suddenly very thirsty. I’m well and you? I’m Umar How are you feeling Cédric? Tired, it’s been a long day. Where have you come from?

I meet Umar, the chauffeur who is going to take me to the base camp at Lenin Peak. I tell him where I have come from, he’s gob-smacked when he hears what I have done. The Pamir plain is at a height of 3000 metres (9,800 ft).

The base camp is at 3600 metres (11,800 ft). 25 kilometres (15.5 miles) of tracks separate us from our where we’re going. Umar and I hit it off very quickly. His smile, and his good humour are like the sun’s rays. Beyond the comfort of being driven, I thoroughly enjoy meeting Umar.

It takes us more than an hour to reach the camp. I’ve just arrived at Tulpar Lake, And catapulted at the foot of Lenin Peak, a magnificent camp of yurts Well over here, it’s not very warm, but once inside it’s warm. And in the yurt, the fire has been lit. wow, that’s cool.

Well that is good to go I start to sort out my stuff, because I would like to Take far less with me tomorrow and the day after. And I’m very happy to be here, very happy. Because it’s truly wonderful, and then the trip until now, has gone really well

And that, that’s really great. Let’s go, ready for the assault! OK, my alarm set at 06.00 this morning 621 00:34:46,666 –> 00:34:47,766 but it’s now 06.30, Time to get out of bed. I am here at Tulpar Lake. It’s one of the start points for going a little further towards Lenin Peak.

It’s not really the base camp, we’ll go past that a little later. The Lenin Peak is very impressive. The summit is more than 3500 metres (11,400 ft) above me. The immense green Pamir plain stretches out from its foothills. It’s paradise for wild horses.

Well my plans have changed somewhat since yesterday. I must climb up to Camp 1, then finally there’s a glitch. So I stay in the base camp. I am going to do a bit of cycling there’s a ridge up there well I’m not going up to the top because you would need crampons.

Again and again, I have to shoulder the bike that’s part of the ritual in the mountains. I contine to climb this slender ridge that leads to Petrov Peak. Finally, at around 4200 metres (13,800 ft), I decide to stop there. Although the sun is shining the weather is about to change.

You can hear thunder in the distance. The storm is approaching. I decide not to hang about on this lightning-rod shaped ridge. At last, a good night’s sleep, I’m pleased I slept from 9.45 until 6.15 the following morning which, for me, is a great night’s sleep.

Yesterday, I was up there on the ridge, it was wonderful, there, where the sun is shining. And then this morning, I head off towards Camp 1 on Lenin peak. Incidentally, we see the peak emerging from the clouds. A beautiful day, I think, awaits me. But there’s 1000 metres (3,200 ft) of climbing,

So I’m going to have to carry the bike and that’s going to be a wholly different experience. I get the impression of being tiny in this setting. I am literally crushed by my surroundings. Surprisingly, I meet a 4WD vehicle that has dropped some climbers off higher up.

They will have avoided having to walk for at least an hour and a half hour. I attack, this first bike carry to Traveller Pass and once there, I am now in mountaineer’s territory. The dance of the porters climbing up to the high altitude camps is endless.

They carry the climbers’ gear, and occasionally building materials. The slightest pedalling effort, When it’s steep, like that, I fear that my heart Is about to explode. When carrying a bike you need to secure it properly and most importantly to adopt a slow and steady pace. The mountain march.

I chat often with the climbers I meet. But what’s really crazy, Is that here, in deepest Kygyrzstan, I even meet a guy who follows me on the social network. Such a small world! I am truly, I am truly very happy to be here! Already that’s some performance,

But it’s going to go further. I can’t wait to see what awaits me beyond. I get stuck into an exposed descent. It’s very steep. And it’s very slippery. I must keep to my trajectory and take each turn with great care. This bike, it’s awesome! And there descent here, this segment! It’s mad!

It’s a wonderful day for me, for the time being at least but the view, unfortunately is a little obscured of Lenin peak, but it doesn’t matter as I have seen it every day for several days. And I’m going to continue along this valley. In search of Camp 1

And honestly, I think that I’m on a good day. I’m perfectly acclimatised, and I’m at a height of over 4000 metres (13,000 ft), I’m so excited like a little kid it’s so good! I take my time because this climb to Camp 1 is just so breathtakingly beautiful.

I meet some porters who, this time, are on their way down back to the base camp. Some of the horses seem to heavily overladen. I have the impression that I’m riding on the moon. I have even found water on another planet. In the distance, an avalanche kicks me back into reality.

I really am riding in the Pamir mountains. Well, I choose the schoolboy (slower) route to avoid this river crossing that looks really shit! The path is far nicer, and it’s definitely shorter, But still, I prefer to be safe. As cycling at 4350 metres (14,200 ft) above sea level that’s another story.

There’s camp 1 great, I’ve made it! I’ll soon be there. just one last small descent to go. And a short climb. “Yes, he’s carrying the bike on his back, hold on, I’ll put him on.” “I’ll speak to you after.” This is an extraordinary country! Hi! Another unexpected occurence upon arriving at Camp 1.

On the other end of the line, the husband of this French woman is following my adventure on Instagram. Then follows a surreal chat at 4400 metres (14,400 ft) above sea level. I love you! This is how it starts! A small, but absolutely crazy meal. Meat, potatoes, vegetables, it’s excellent.

Oh wow, that’s the tops! And I can tell you that, It’s bloody cold out here. Now I’m going to crawl into the sleeping bag I’m going to go to bed and no more talking. Well, this morning I’m going to explore around Yukhin Peak.

In my opinion, the chances of cycling down it are very slim. So if I see that it won’t work, I won’t go to the summit, it’s a waste of time. Whatever, it’s great to have reached Camp 1 at 4400 metres (14,400 ft). Let’s see if I can go a little higher,

And to ride my bike of course! It’s very difficult! There’s no grip, it’s very slippery. The combined weight of the back pack and bike! But whatever, the landscape here is awesome! Stop there, I won’t go any higher! 4800 metres (15,700 ft) that’s almost the height of Mont Blanc.

I’m not going any further. I’m stopping here. I was planning to complete my trip with a summit at 5,000 metres, well actually over 5,000 metres (16,400 ft). But sadly, it’s not for me for several reasons. The first, I think that I’m beginning to feel tired from all the previous days’ exertions,

Notably yesterday which was nevertheless a big day. My acclimatisation, which, in my opinion, is good up to 4000 metres (13,000 ft). means I’m OK up to 4400 metres (14,400 ft) but now I’m at 4800 metres (15,700 ft) and it’s pissing me off and the weight of my back pack, it’s horrible.

I must be carrying over 20 kilos (44 lbs), so screw it and the final reason, it’s horribly steep. Whatever, I don’t think that I would have been capable of riding it all. So, that’s it. So while we’re at it, if I don’t have the ability, I’ll leave it to others.

It’s time to leave Camp 1 and get back to the pastures, the mountain meadows, the streams, and the horses. I head off in the direction of the Base camp. I have achieved what I set out to do I love riding in these mountain-topped landscapes, it’s truly wonderful.

I don’t know if I’ll ever come back here, so I make the most of every moment. And that’s it, my trip to Kyrgyzstan is over. It was a really amazing trip, probably too short, but which promises more similar adventures. Final chapter in this journey into the heart of Kyrgyzstan,

I load my bike on to the roof of Umar’s 4WD. We leave base camp bathed in in a quite unusual sunlight. Bad weather tomorrow. I learnt afterwards that 20 centimetres (8 inches) of snow had fallen the day after I left.

What extraordinary luck to have been in the right place at the right time! The car ride back is full of emotions for me The further we drive on, away from the mountains the images scroll past the smiling faces of the locals, the yurts, the red and green valleys, and the omnipresent snow.

I am both happy and confused. I want to stay here and go home. Beautiful, immense, sharing. These words echo in my head. I close my eyes and I see myself riding, in the wind, like a galloping horse, across this traditional land.