So I’ve realized larger frame bikes kill me I’m 5’6 with a 27” inseam and 10 1/2 shoes.
I found a bike I love in 52 but I got some toe overlap. I know the cranks are 170 so I can shorten those. Bike salesman says don’t worry about but hard to trust dude who wants to make a sale.
by gudmond
21 Comments
Is your toe interfering? Then it is bad enough.
I have this on my new bike. I was worried at first, but it’s never been an issue, and I enjoy getting into situations where I need to take tight turns.
I imagine it COULD give you some grief in the absolute worst of situations, but even when I’ve rubbed my toe a bit on my tire while turning at a decent speed it wasn’t enough to cause a crash or throw me off.
Try adjusting your cleats to the front of the slider. I get overlap on a 2mm difference between my “right” size and the size I enjoy riding. Similar situation, bigger frame. You have some adjustments to see if you can make the frame work, like you said a shorter crank set is likely better suited to your size shoe. Clear adjustment, too. Both should sort out any fitment issues, but you gotta love the bike enough to do it. Otherwise just keep looking.
Toe overlap is more of a get good situation. Doing those type of articulated turns is so rare and you generally know it’s coming so you can pedal a little smarter then. Shouldn’t be a deal breaker if the reach and standover fits.
Have a similar issue on my bike. Only time it’s an issue is when I get myself in over my head on tight singletrack and I’m not mindful of my feet placement.
This was the first thing I noticed on my Warbird, but the reality is that 99% of the time, it’s never a problem. I’m never turning the front wheel that tight at speed. The only time it’s a problem is at slow speed in tight spaces. In most of those instances, I’m clipped out and walking, or I’m just dismounting anyway.
The bike is the correct size for you, and that’s more important.
yeah, i’ve had some toe overlap on my bike too. it’s not a dealbreaker for me, and i haven’t had any issues with it. as long as the bike feels good otherwise, i wouldn’t stress too much about the overlap.
Normal.
I have toe overlap as well but never got into a situation where my toe hit the wheels. Tight turns are rare and if you ever have to, your feet will be on the 6 or 12 o clock anyway to avoid pedal strike.
I have toe overlap, it’s a compact frame with 650b. I do lots of tight switch backs on one of my rides (both up and down). It’s never been an issue as long as you’re aware and use good technique.
Unless the advice here is “Go see a fitter” you might as well just roll the dice and do whatever you want. There’s tons of reasons to move cleats or shorten cranks etc… and almost none of them have to do with toe overlap. At 5’6”, a 52 cm isn’t out of the question for you, but it’s all relative. Each bike manufacturer is different when it comes to sizing. The best way to get this solved without making some potentially major sacrifices in other areas of your fit is to see someone that can look at these variations across brands/models. They may indeed tell you that you need a shorter crank arm, or that you need to have your cleats slammed forward…but they could just as easily tell you the opposite (depending on your anatomy) which would compound your toe overlap problem. Also, you’re right to be skeptical of fit advice from sales people. Few of them really know fitting well but they will talk like it’s no big deal and you can make just about anything work. Gl on your search!
Get the bike that fits and don’t worry about toe overlap…
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btw I have and love these shoes! they are my n=1 and I use them for mtb, road, gravel. All with spd.
Wouldn’t bother me a bit. It’s really just an issue on super-tight, slow-speed turns, and a momentary backpedal is all it takes to correct for it.
I’m 5’7″ and I have never had a road, cross or gravel bike that doesn’t have toe overlap. First you get used to it and then you never even think about it.
The bottomline here is that it’s almost impossible to build a dropbar bike for a shorter rider without toe overlap. With a dropbar you need a frame with a shorter top tube to compensate for the bar moving your hands far forward. This inevitably brings the front axle closer to your foot.
Some manufacturers try to eliminate the overlap either by using a longer top tube (and a shorter stem), or by making the head angle slacker in small frame sizes. Especially the latter makes zero sense to me, since good steering geometry is so much more important than possible toe overlap on a bike that’s not for technical riding.
The only really good way get rid of the toe overlap is to use smaller wheels, but then you have to deal with the poor wheel and tire selection.
Pretty bad, is that a bike for ants?
I’m about 5’8″ and have had some toe overlap on almost every road bike I’ve had. My gravel bike just barely clears my toe. I don’t think it’s a big deal.
You’ll probably find out, unfortunately
You missed such a great opportunity to say toeverlap
Toe overlap is normal. Other than mountain bikes, I’ve never owned a bike, where I didn’t have toe overlap, including my fixed gear. There’s really no reason you should be pedaling when you’re turning the front wheel that sharply anyway.
It’s only as bad as you imagine it to be
I’d personally get a little scary. I once had a road bike with that much overlap, but I rarely do that kind of maneuvering for road. But having done a few gravel rides, I can see myself doing that on rare occasions. While it’s rare, I’d personally play on the safer side.