EDIT: break system – Shimano, BR-MT420, 4-piston caliper, hydraulic disc, S1-S2: 180mm, S3-S6: 203mm
Only thing I will change is break pads and work on my technique more. I would probably say this was a skill issue on my end.
7+ years on XC and Now got a trail bike and hit a Blue mountain in Ontario. Few Trails down were fine and the last one I hit was pretty much straight decent down on a gravel and because of huge washed gravel holes I had to break a bit more than I would have liked.
Should I use different disk, break pad or even break system? even when I bought they do feel very soft and would like more precision from them as I’m more used to XT’s and these are Deore.
Many thanks.
by SukstR
13 Comments
Shimano rotors? They do that it’s normal I make a new set look like that on day one of use without heavy braking.
It looks like you’re running the non-finned pads from Shimano. I’d suggest trying the metallic finned pads. If you’re a heavier rider, upsizing the rear rotor might also be a good idea. Assuming you’re using a bit more front brake than rear when using them, already.
I would first go with metalic pads if you dont have them, discs are normal tl be “burned” tons of heat they handle..
If yiu have metalics and lack braking power i would try like galfer ebike or mtx gold pads and hs2 rotors 2mm or trp 2.3mm(they should be able to fit), 2.0 fits on my slx, but im not 100% sure about 2.3
Also, you can work on braking technique, watch yt videos, no draggign just brake and release, dragging overheats them easier
Read up on what it takes to properly bed in disc brakes. That brown hazing close to the braking surface is a good sign. Blue/purple discoloration is an indication of overheating but the brown color just means the brakes got up to temperature. I see no issue.
Did you actually lose any braking performance? If not, it’s more a warning sign than a problem.
Going up one size on discs is pretty effective as a smaller change and can reduce brake fatigue too. If you’re using sintered pads, they often cause a bit more heat stress too.
Technique can be a big deal, any brake dragging/comfort braking adds massively to heat stress because you loose the cooling phase entirely. Hard braking alone won’t often cook a brake unless you’re on really continuous steep stuff. But forcing yourself to let off the brake entirely rather than keeping that little bit of engagement makes an absolutely huge difference. It was the only reason I used to cook my brakes, fixing that one habit meant I didn’t have to change any hardware.
What type of brake pads are you running? I can’t tell from the pictures. Shimano has their ICE pads and a few other brands make similar ones that have a finned aluminum heat sink on the pads. I’ve ran them for a long time and haven’t had heat or brake fade issues. I think the pads are the way to solve the issue rather than getting new rotors.
Aren’t they suppose to change that colour when at proper braking temps?
I’m a fan of the Shimano XT 4 piston, I’d just upgrade to those and they come with the finned metallic pads and better rotors.
They’re just used. Shimano brakes shouldnt feel soft. Give them a bleed.
The coloration is fine, but different rotors would make a noticeable improvement.
Shimano’s Chinese stamped steel rotors are not machined flat like their better versions. They work, but at best they are more difficult to bed in, noisier and give a worse brake feel.
That’s far away from “burned rotor” … “Looks like you haven’t even braked your brake properly yet…”
I like to occasionally take my pads out to inspect them and blow any dust and grit out of the whole brake. Then I clean the rotors with alcohol. Then I remount the wheel, use some more alcohol, spin and lightly brake. Use a clean paper towel to see if there’s anything coming out of there. Repeat the alcohol, spin, break check routine until a new paper towel, damp with alcohol comes away perfectly clean.
I only do this when I’m doing an exstensive clean after race season or after particularly gritty, dusty rides. Or when I happen to have the wheel off for whatever other reason.
For most people and most bikes this is probably overkill. I manage a small fleet of bikes that are racing and riding hard. Detailed routines like this help me stay on top of maintenance and keep track of component lifespans.
Most riders should just bed in their brakes properly, keep them reasonably free of grit and dirt, and clean your rotors when you may have over sprayed something onto them. Check your rotor and pads for wear …seasonally?
Looks like a great bedding in job to me.