Hello everyone. I am getting older and my wrists and hands are getting sore/numb when I ride 50+ miles and I've been researching different handlebar options.
I've been on drop bars for almost 20 years and 5-6 years ago I switched to this Redshift bar with ergo grips and some very soft bar tape. It's by far the most comfortable bar I've ever ridden. But I think it could be better. I'm not sure if there is anything else I can do to improve my current bar, or if it's time to switch bar design all together.
I've been reading about bars like the Jones H bar and the Rivendell Nitto Wavie bar. I like the idea of the 40+ degrees of backsweep, but I don't know if I'll like going to a "single level" bar. I do occasionally like to tuck in for aero and it's not unheard of to hit speeds in excess of 30-40mph. I live in the mtns of east TN so a lot of climbing and general elevation changes. I also like to use the drops for climbing.
Ideally, in my head, I would love these exact same bars, but with a more aggressive angle on the drops (see photo), is something like that even available?
I'm hesitant to buy the Jones bar because that's a $250+ investment when you add the cost of new grips, cables, housings, brake levers, etc. Just to find out I don't really like it.. Not much less cost for the Rivendell. I really wish there were bikes with these bars near me that I could just ride for a little while to test out. If anyone is within an hour of Johnson City TN, hit me up!
Tl;Dr do they make drop bars with a 40ish degree backsweep on the drops? Also have you switched from drops to a "flat" bar and how did you like or not like it?
by JeveStones69
11 Comments
I made the switch from drops to Surly Molokos for long distance touring and absolutely love them. The Surly Corner Bars might be more your speed though!
Check out Surly corner bars!
They are pretty much what you are looking for. According tovmy wife, you should set up the drops for your normal riding and use the flat par for upright resting. They are also MTB compatible, of that is something you might appreciate.
Looking at the Surly corner bar and that looks very much like what I was imagining. Thanks!
If you want a bar with more flare, check out [https://bikepacking.com/index/gravel-bars/](https://bikepacking.com/index/gravel-bars/) .
I have a Ritchey Beacon which a decent amount of flare, but there are some with a lot more.
The Salsa Woodchipper has a lot of flare in the drops.
Zipp XPLR perhaps. Not just for gravel. I have Ritchey VentureMax on one bike. Shallow and long drops but many don’t like the “bio bump.” It works well for me.
Side question – have you tried the redshift shock-absorbing stem? It
helps reduce chatter. Super nice upgrade regardless of what bar you ultimately end up with!
Sorry if you already have it installed and I can’t tell hah
Two answers, bend your bars, did it on my M bars or just swap bars, look for used, I find moloko and jones for sale all the time around here ( but I am in a big city ) I had both and sold both. Jones have tons of hand positions and about all of them are useless IMO. Moloko were better but so rigid and no compliance so found them painful. Instead I just hobbled my own bars. Surly open bars with rise, that I braised 2 in extensions on and put in inner bar ends. I have tons of hand positions and I use them all. I can use multiple version of “hoods” and using my forarms can even go into a tuck. To each their own. Jones and Moloko were the gateway drug to alt bars but imo best is to make your own.
https://preview.redd.it/n4u68a8yow7h1.png?width=2354&format=png&auto=webp&s=712173da1cc37ca3f104ffbe500f3e4741f87dd8
Before you dump money into bars, have you done a professional fitting recently? As we get older, our core often turns on us and you put more weight on the hands. This means you need more effective stack and less effective reach.
Additionally, you have your saddle adjusted all the way forward. This may seem to lower the reach needed, but also messes with your center of gravity, which also increases weight on the hands.
It is really common for people to think fit issues are issues with the bar. They go chasing some sort of bar that fixes the fit, but it rarely does and generally when it does its because it adjusts the effective stack and reach. For example, the bar you have now appears to have a pretty short distance to the hoods. Its probably more comfortable because of that. This is also why riser bars became so popular for a while because the increased the stack. Flat bars also effectively reduce the reach of a drop bar bike (and also increase the effective stack compared to the drops, but not the hoods).
I will say your current config seems pretty “maxed” out for that frame, but it is possible that if you order a new full length steerer fork from, you might reduce the effective reach and increase the stack, but probably minimally. The LHT always had pretty shitty reach and stack for a touring bike. The vaya always had the best, but even when it was a steel fork, it wasn’t an amazing touring bike.
Before you throw good money after bad, find a good bike fitting. Ideally one by someone with actual training in biomechanics/kinesiology not some bike shop guy who did a branded fit kit training. My fitter works for the local university hospital and doesn’t sell anything, which is great.
Velo Orange – Crazy bars saved my shoulders and wrists once I turned 50. Great angles, and still a bit of a tuck position.
Id second the wood chipper but man that brake set up looks brutal. I’d get modern tektro brake levers and set up normally so you get the third position.
https://preview.redd.it/ctcix12scx7h1.jpeg?width=1000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ff57cc811066549325975a1d5657ce5a18139dae
This is a pic of a friends conversion from drop bars to flat bars that I helped with. Formerly 44cm flared gravel bars and GRX600 11s dual control levers.
Some flat bars that were laying around trimmed to 600mm, SL-RS700 shifters and XT brake levers (non i-spec), Profile Designs outer bar ends for the usual MTB bull horn position, BBB inners that emulate a hoods like position. Brakes and gears are accessible from the inner bullhorns. Lots of positions. Pro Missile comfort bars raised 100mm with Profile Designs risers (and 120mm countersunk bolts sourced from eBay). Aero bars eliminate pressure on hands and wrists.