Nah, send it. It could be better, but I have had worse.
MadamIzolda on
Not much you can do about it, innit.
Mindless-Baker-7757 on
>Just converted from a 2×9 to a 1×9
Why? Why would you do that?
melkor80 on
Looks fine to me
Grandmaster_Shu on
Chainline will always be poor when you’re in the biggest cog at the rear, not much you can do about it. You probably won’t be in the largest cog at the rear very much anyway so it’s a minor thing.
(Well technically, you could move your chainring to the inner position but that just gives you the exact same scenario for the smallest cog at the rear)
greenleaf386 on
It’s not ideal. But does it pass the ride test? If you put it in gear and it stays in gear when you ride it, then this chainline is “good enough”. Just ride it.
If it stays in the gear you put it in, it ain’t broke. So dont fix it.
martynssimpson on
That’s an inherent tradeoff with 1x setups, especially on bikes which weren’t originally designed for it. Modern bikes address this with how they position the bottom bracket and also offsetting the chainring.
In your case you could move the chainring to the other side, that is behind the crank tabs, and slightly improve chainline that way. Be aware though that if it’s too close to the frame it can cause issues.
Bike seems to have pretty long chainstays, so it’s not an issue.
schrodinger-the-cat on
I mean if it doesn’t drop it works. My chainline on 51T looks goofy but it works.
Limp_Bookkeeper_5992 on
That’s fine, it’s a lot worse on stock 1×12 bikes and they work just fine.
e17lond on
Worst case scenario you go through a chain a bit quicker. A chain is 20 quid. I wouldn’t worry about it.
iesalnieks on
When in the fifth cog (middle of he casette) the chain when looking from the back, should veer slightly to the right. You want it more or less straight in the middle of the cassete, don’t worry about it in the big rings.
Hagenaar on
What’s your favourite cog?
If there’s clearance from the tire, you can consider the inner position instead. That’s what I did for my 2x-1x conversion. But it was a dedicated trail bike I used on steep, techie trails. I spend a lot of time in the smallest gear getting to the tops of things, and only a handful of moments in my highest gear, like on a downhill road section at the end of a ride. For me it made sense to optimise for the big/inner cog.
14 Comments
Nah, send it. It could be better, but I have had worse.
Not much you can do about it, innit.
>Just converted from a 2×9 to a 1×9
Why? Why would you do that?
Looks fine to me
Chainline will always be poor when you’re in the biggest cog at the rear, not much you can do about it. You probably won’t be in the largest cog at the rear very much anyway so it’s a minor thing.
(Well technically, you could move your chainring to the inner position but that just gives you the exact same scenario for the smallest cog at the rear)
It’s not ideal. But does it pass the ride test? If you put it in gear and it stays in gear when you ride it, then this chainline is “good enough”. Just ride it.
If it stays in the gear you put it in, it ain’t broke. So dont fix it.
That’s an inherent tradeoff with 1x setups, especially on bikes which weren’t originally designed for it. Modern bikes address this with how they position the bottom bracket and also offsetting the chainring.
In your case you could move the chainring to the other side, that is behind the crank tabs, and slightly improve chainline that way. Be aware though that if it’s too close to the frame it can cause issues.
https://preview.redd.it/1v1z0w698g6h1.png?width=800&format=png&auto=webp&s=e89d50b523cb0177db1c5cf078db9d1b11b120c2
Bike seems to have pretty long chainstays, so it’s not an issue.
I mean if it doesn’t drop it works. My chainline on 51T looks goofy but it works.
That’s fine, it’s a lot worse on stock 1×12 bikes and they work just fine.
Worst case scenario you go through a chain a bit quicker. A chain is 20 quid. I wouldn’t worry about it.
When in the fifth cog (middle of he casette) the chain when looking from the back, should veer slightly to the right. You want it more or less straight in the middle of the cassete, don’t worry about it in the big rings.
What’s your favourite cog?
If there’s clearance from the tire, you can consider the inner position instead. That’s what I did for my 2x-1x conversion. But it was a dedicated trail bike I used on steep, techie trails. I spend a lot of time in the smallest gear getting to the tops of things, and only a handful of moments in my highest gear, like on a downhill road section at the end of a ride. For me it made sense to optimise for the big/inner cog.
This is cross-chaining. It is not recommended.