Powder coating shop covered brake caliper mounting surfaces. What's the best way to remove? Chisel off with razor blade, fine grit dremmel wheel, something else?
If you can fit a palm orbital sander I would try that. You could also carefully use a flat file. This is called facing and it’s very important. Did they do this around the bottom bracket too??
shelf_caribou on
You can get a facing tool, but I’d probably take it to an lbs to do it. You want it properly flat or you’ll have endless brake issues
Melodic_coala101 on
I’d probably do it with a flat file or a piece of sandpaper on a block of wood. Just remember that if you fuck up the flatness of those surfaces, your brakes could never be setup ideally.
FunIncident5161 on
If you don’t mind adding tools to your shop park tool sells a brake caliper mount surficer. Do I know how much, do I even know what it’s called in park tool language, also no.
GazelleNo1836 on
Take it to a bike shop that has a park disc mount facer that will make everything better you could file it but you could take it out of alignment and make things worse.
…local bike shop probably will have this and will make your future brake adjustments significantly easier…
Its also likely your bottom backet and headtube should be faced… most shops can quote a standard rates on a frame facing services. Would be totally worth it after a powder coat.
_Nacktmull_ on
Its not just about removing the paint, you want those surfaces to be exactly parallel. Use the right tool for the job, which means a proper facing tool, or go to a professional workshop. Sanding or using a file will probably cause never ending problems because if the mounting surfaces are not parallel it will be impossible to properly align your brake to the rotor.
BiggieBiggle on
If you have a belt sander it could be possible to contact both surfaces evenly at the same time, but just go to lbs
johnwalkr on
I would file it by hand very deliberately and slowly. Use visual feedback to judge the angle of the file so that you’re removing the coating but not the base material. Don’t use power tools.
Whithorsematt on
Bike shop will have a tool to do it with proper alignment. Failing that a fine flat file that is large enough to cover both ends of the mount at the same time and is easy enough to keep flat.
CantaloupeAlert4795 on
Get a cheap nail file, flat, don’t over do it, the pressure of the bolt will get you as flat as needed by pressing the paint. Is not a clockwork, it’ll work fine
Darnocpdx on
Grinder and a 60-80 grit grinding disk.
If it was done well, it’s a PITA to remove. I deal with it on occasion with ornamental installations as a commercial welder often.
Facing tool might work, I haven’t tried it really doesn’t apply to my situations, go slow and careful it possibly could dull perhaps even wreck it pretty fast. Hand file/sanding would take forever.
I’d start with a Dremel or flexshaft tool, but not sure how long the little bits would last, I’m usually doing it with a 6-9″ angle grinder, and even then it’s a lot of work and time consuming to remove compared to other surface treatments.
Hrothgarbike on
Razor blade and 800 grit sandpaper. Slow and careful. I’ve had to do it a few times and it’s worked out.
atergaterg on
Knife/razor etc will allow you to get rid of the paint without removing any significant part of the metal. Depending on the quality of the frame, you probably will not need to actually face it.
Ancient-Chinglish on
add a d
garciakevz on
Won’t cost much at the bike shop to do and will be more accurate than most people especially without the right tools
18 Comments
If you can fit a palm orbital sander I would try that. You could also carefully use a flat file. This is called facing and it’s very important. Did they do this around the bottom bracket too??
You can get a facing tool, but I’d probably take it to an lbs to do it. You want it properly flat or you’ll have endless brake issues
I’d probably do it with a flat file or a piece of sandpaper on a block of wood. Just remember that if you fuck up the flatness of those surfaces, your brakes could never be setup ideally.
If you don’t mind adding tools to your shop park tool sells a brake caliper mount surficer. Do I know how much, do I even know what it’s called in park tool language, also no.
Take it to a bike shop that has a park disc mount facer that will make everything better you could file it but you could take it out of alignment and make things worse.
A facing tool is really what you want. [Park Tool](https://www.parktool.com/en-us/product/disc-brake-mount-facing-set-dt-5-2?srsltid=AfmBOorY1qc19iqWWWVmEeDLwSIz2EQ2eRiFXWClGFJdsZ6jXSWSHpOh)
Unless you’re investing in future capability, having it done at a good shop would be the most economical option.
Powder
https://www.parktool.com/en-us/product/disc-brake-mount-facing-set-dt-5-2?srsltid=AfmBOooo05l9MdVinbLRVioGLoVl_JBdcjeRNgDA7Xt0bWMmJUjv_d3T
…local bike shop probably will have this and will make your future brake adjustments significantly easier…
Its also likely your bottom backet and headtube should be faced… most shops can quote a standard rates on a frame facing services. Would be totally worth it after a powder coat.
Its not just about removing the paint, you want those surfaces to be exactly parallel. Use the right tool for the job, which means a proper facing tool, or go to a professional workshop. Sanding or using a file will probably cause never ending problems because if the mounting surfaces are not parallel it will be impossible to properly align your brake to the rotor.
If you have a belt sander it could be possible to contact both surfaces evenly at the same time, but just go to lbs
I would file it by hand very deliberately and slowly. Use visual feedback to judge the angle of the file so that you’re removing the coating but not the base material. Don’t use power tools.
Bike shop will have a tool to do it with proper alignment. Failing that a fine flat file that is large enough to cover both ends of the mount at the same time and is easy enough to keep flat.
Get a cheap nail file, flat, don’t over do it, the pressure of the bolt will get you as flat as needed by pressing the paint. Is not a clockwork, it’ll work fine
Grinder and a 60-80 grit grinding disk.
If it was done well, it’s a PITA to remove. I deal with it on occasion with ornamental installations as a commercial welder often.
Facing tool might work, I haven’t tried it really doesn’t apply to my situations, go slow and careful it possibly could dull perhaps even wreck it pretty fast. Hand file/sanding would take forever.
I’d start with a Dremel or flexshaft tool, but not sure how long the little bits would last, I’m usually doing it with a 6-9″ angle grinder, and even then it’s a lot of work and time consuming to remove compared to other surface treatments.
Razor blade and 800 grit sandpaper. Slow and careful. I’ve had to do it a few times and it’s worked out.
Knife/razor etc will allow you to get rid of the paint without removing any significant part of the metal. Depending on the quality of the frame, you probably will not need to actually face it.
add a d
Won’t cost much at the bike shop to do and will be more accurate than most people especially without the right tools