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    Help for a more stable image

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    39 Comments

    1. Foreign_Alps_5982 on

      I don’t think RockSteady+ suddenly makes the image completely shake-free, does it? Do I need a different chest strap?

    3. Alkanna on

      Chin mount, go for the highest res you can, it basically gives more for the image stabilization to work with.
      Chest mount really sucks when you’re not riding super smooth shaped trails

    4. TG__Goose on

      For shaded areas like this, remove the ND filter and let the camera control frame rate.

    6. darmaus on

      I have Action 4 and it’s buttery smooth with similiar specs, however my DJI chest mount was terrible on jumps and drops. DIY chin mount is perfect on bike.

      Try ditching filter, I’ve read somewhere it’s only for photos, but I don’t know how it can affect stability in any way

    9. rudeoff on

      Action cameras struggle to stabilize when at lower frame rates. Digital image stabilization is almost unusable in very lowlight situations, since your clips look like they’re shot midday you just need to get up to the highest frame rate you can use.

      Unfortunately with action cameras you often have to trade motion blur for stabilization. Good luck in post!

    11. netposer on

      You definitely want motion blur (24 fps) to make you look fast. The problem is the low light and the chest mount not being as stable on each hit/bump. Low light and software stabilization is very hard. You will notice you can’t get the wide POV’s when using the built in ‘night modes’. Chin mounts and/or mouth mounts look way better due to your head being more stable than your chest.

      Edit. The GoPro chesty straps can only get so tight. There are better chesty solutions out there with better straps and a larger chest plate. Both keep the camera from bouncing as much.

      Example of my Osmo 360 using a mouth mount:
      [https://www.instagram.com/reel/DYLa0HLx9Zs/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==](https://www.instagram.com/reel/DYLa0HLx9Zs/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==)

    12. DJGammaRabbit on

      Stuntman chesty

      No nd filter

      4k30 wants minimum 1/60 shutter so do 1/100 or it’ll look choppy, 4k60 needs 1/120 so do 1/200.

      Rocksteady

      Ultra wide

      -2, -2

      Sport mode

      More frames (60 or 120) gives it more information to work with, at the cost of less lighting
      . 
      Standard bitrate. High bit is too much for many 4k tvs.

      Do the lowest ISO you can – set it in the woods to determine lighting. 

      Do 4k30 16:9 for YouTube.

      It looks like Rocksteady is not on. Tighten your chesty. Under visor mount does not look bad. Your settings don’t give it enough light information to work with. Nd filters look good, but try 4k30 and lower iso with less filter. 

      This is my 4k phone with no stabilization

      https://youtu.be/pN1TNts7ePI?si=rNISW8kBPQNatP5q

      This is my oa5p with 24 frames

      https://youtu.be/gHUBfT4TunU?si=RxWuvWTpD5Sbnn03

      Same hill in 4k60

      https://youtu.be/0YtcbMRU1gA?si=73Sx6rKOpbLm3MHw

      It removes all bumps

    13. repkjund on

      Save your settings on a profile and then try these:

      4k30 16:9 / RS.

      5500k wb.

      Exposure auto.

      Dlog colour.

      Ultra wide.

      Image adjuster default.

      It’s where I found my sweet spot with the Osmo 4
      Might be worth checking whether your sd card is capable of reading fast as fuck 4k images.

    14. joystickd on

      Shoot it at 60p and lose the ND filter.

      Under a forest canopy is too dark for using an ND filter and the stabilisation won’t work well.

    15. haberdabers on

      I found helmet cam the best. If the chest mount has any form of play it makes it a whole lot worse, make it as tight as you can.

      I found my viewers prefer helmet cam over chest cam as it can look like crotch cam…

    19. very-edge-of-space on

      Opinion:

      Stabilization blurs the image a lot in low light. Reduce the stabilization to almost nothing when you night ride or dusk ride. Increase your frame rate to make it a little less jumpy.

      You’ll have to use your legs more to provide a more steady shot and maybe slow down. Gimbal will work too but that’s expensive and you already got legs don’t ya?

      For that warp speed video your lower frame rate is fine. Turn up stabilization and take the video on an overcast day. The stabilization works best when the light is consistent – no shafts shooting through the trees to overexpose the sensor.

    20. Top_Low_3208 on

      Tighten that chest strap so it is felling too tight, i got it set like that back when i was using gopro session 4 without stabilization and it was really helping, so it should be good for dji action 6 camera.

    25. ProjectOxide on

      Shutter speed is too slow, you want it to be at least 1/120. You’ll still get decent motion blur when you’re going fast, but it will be a lot more stable.

    29. yyz_fpv on

      In my experience, it’s shutter speed that really impacts how effective the stabilization performs. An absolute minimum shutter of 1/120 will be fine for most flow trails, but you need upward of 1/240 for rough tech trails. The faster shutter give the image stabilization processor more slices per frame to analyze and “see” the vibrations within each frame.

      You’ve got a couple of paths:

      Cinematic look:
      Shoot manual mode: 4K 60fps at 1/120 with ISO ceiling set at 400. In bright sun, shutter 1/240. In dark forest ISO ceiling may need to be higher. (ND filters are very effective with this approach)

      Full Auto:
      If you set the camera to auto, it will handle everything. Shutter speeds will be far higher than 1/120 and there will be no jello. The trade off is the cinematic look.

    33. usingbadnamesabunch on

      Get a Stuntman gopro mount. They are much more stable. That solved a lot of my stability issues. I shoot with a GoPro 13, and ended up getting a max lens mod to address stability in the dark. It worked great.

    34. doobies123 on

      I guess the first question is really, are you standing? Because it almost looks like you’re sitting.

    35. Dismal_Reflection_86 on

      Use a gimble. You can mount a small one for go pros on your chest harness and it floats and smoothes out all that Blair witch project shooting.. then you can smooth it out more on your software later by slowing it down, etc..

    36. AdmirablePut9609 on

      Your chest mount isnt tight enough and the camera is wobbling under you.

    38. hencasbi on

      ND8 is too much for a dense forest. There is an app called NDMeter, should give you a good baseline.
      Regardless, no matter of the light conditions  chest mounts always were a bit too bumpy for me: https://youtube.com/shorts/RAMG10jJV2o?si=zkAF64Bbdqm7kdKw

      Chinmounts are a good compromise from speed and stabilization perspective imo: https://youtube.com/shorts/di8u7cFv-V8?si=Eb_PGEBwx9_pwHcN

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