Thanks for looking. I know these "tests" are a bit inaccurate, but I'm trying to track down what's causing weird power readings on this bike. Basically, the effort required to ride this bike at, say, 300 watts feels noticeably harder than 300 watts on my road bike and trainer.
It's a Mog with Force 1x Dub Wide and a Chris King BB if that's helpful. The bike probably has 1,000 miles on it.
The road bike and trainer have different brand power meters compared to this bike, so that might be the cause of the issue as well/is likely the next thing I need to look into.
by kto25
18 Comments
Nope… something is not right…
That notch at the end says no.
The answer to so many questions is “if you think you have to ask”
That clunk sound isn’t really reasonable. Can’t see if it comes from something else not pictured, but it does not sound right. And it should spin way easier being chainless.
It’s too tight. Take pedals off and spin it. If it doesn’t stop in smooth motion it’s too tight. If it moves in the opposite direction when coming from a stop it’s too tight.
there’s a notch for some reason and the seller tightened the fuck out of it to try to hide it
Its indexed, it’s either too tight or your BB is cooked.
Hi OP, can you rotate it with the pedal removed? I think your crank arm bolt is too tight.
Who ever put it together last tightened it up to much. The balls may have dented the race, not good but may still ride well after being loosened a bit.
Clearly way too much preload on the bb. Should be a preload adjuster on the non drive side you can wind back a bit. Does it feel notchy when you spin the cranks?
This is just a guess, but did you try loosening the BB and tighten it it with a torque wrench to the specified torque setting. Was it recently serviced and did they pack the bottom bracket completely full of grease? Does it need servicing?
The fact that the crank ‘bounces’ back and forth as it stops is very likely indicating new BB seals still tight. I would remove the crank and try rotating the inner bearing races (both sides, one at a time) and see how much friction resistance you feel. If the bearings feel good without the crank, then try tightening the crank in stages, to see if it gets harder to rotate as it gets tighter. Depending on spacers used and BB design, it may be possible to over tighten the inner races.
Probably binding against the bottom bracket. Shouldn’t be stopping that quickly.
That is the antithesis of freely…
To me personally? No. That crank don’t spin freely to satan nor jesus neither. That crank don’t spin freely for ace or gene. That crank Simmons.
Typical of tight bearings
Preload is off or cups are misaligned.
King BB? Nah. That thing should be spinning for awhile.