I had a Shimano SLX CS-M7000 11 Speed cassette on this for 2years and now it looks like that… can you tell me what went wrong here because i never noticed anything while riding🙃
That’s your freehub not a rotor. Some freehubs are not meant to be used with cassettes that have individual cogs like yours does. If the freehub material is too soft, each cog will rotate slightly while you pedal and dig in like this.
Get a different freehub, or get a cassette where the cogs are not all individually slid on.
doncrescas on
This is simply the steel cassette splines biting into the softer material of the driver body. It can be reduced by properly torquing the lockring to the full 40nm. On a DT hub these can be replaced very easily.
InigoPatinkin on
This is actually just a cosmetic issue. The technical manual of dtswiss states for that issue: “Notches from the cassette
on the freewheel body. The steel cassette works
itself into the alloy web of the
freewheel body.
Remove bad notches on the
freewheel body using a file.”
Just make sure, that the cassette is tightly threaded on the freehub and has no play.
Philstar_nz on
if you can’t get the cassette on, you can trim the burs with a needle file or similar, but i wish DT would make a freehub body with steal torque surfaces on the splines,
Landiemanny on
That’s your power, Sir. Take it as a compliment.
KozlovG on
DT Swiss sells steel freehubs that are much harder. Still sucks that you have to pay 60 euros extra for it!
6 Comments
That’s your freehub not a rotor. Some freehubs are not meant to be used with cassettes that have individual cogs like yours does. If the freehub material is too soft, each cog will rotate slightly while you pedal and dig in like this.
Get a different freehub, or get a cassette where the cogs are not all individually slid on.
This is simply the steel cassette splines biting into the softer material of the driver body. It can be reduced by properly torquing the lockring to the full 40nm. On a DT hub these can be replaced very easily.
This is actually just a cosmetic issue. The technical manual of dtswiss states for that issue: “Notches from the cassette
on the freewheel body. The steel cassette works
itself into the alloy web of the
freewheel body.
Remove bad notches on the
freewheel body using a file.”
Just make sure, that the cassette is tightly threaded on the freehub and has no play.
if you can’t get the cassette on, you can trim the burs with a needle file or similar, but i wish DT would make a freehub body with steal torque surfaces on the splines,
That’s your power, Sir. Take it as a compliment.
DT Swiss sells steel freehubs that are much harder. Still sucks that you have to pay 60 euros extra for it!