Hell I’ve run worse on low pressures on my old 90’s peugeot. Send it
Worldly_Possible2925 on
Were they a tight fit going on OP ? Or did they just fall onto the rims. I’d use them if they were a tight fit but I’d break them in and monitor them before doing anything sendy related at speed.
IndyWheelLab on
It’s safe to ride. It isn’t “ideal” from performance standards, but don’t let that force you to spend more money.
ginflut on
Will probably work but the ride will feel a bit spongy / wobbly. I wouldn’t feel confident taking corners aggressively though.
dirtyoldmonk on
Good on you for doing the build. Working on my first at the moment too. Satisfying.
hongos_me_gusta on
matrix rims? is this an old trek?
so these tires are 700c or 26″
regardless, the labeled width of the tire is 2.1″ or 53mm, correct?
Sheldon Brown’s rule was to know the inner rim width (irw) in mm and then multiply that by 1.45 and 2.0 for the min. & max. tired width the irw is sometimes labeled on the rim or you’ll have to remove the tire and measure it. so let’s say the irw is 20mm. (20)(1.45) = 29. (20)(2.0) = 40. so the min. & max. tire width you should choose is 29 to 40mm or roughly 1.14″ to 1.57″ however, today and with mt or gravel bikes the 2.0 is often ignored, rims are stronger, and often the equation is often closer to irw x 2.33.
the inner rim width is the last variable I’d worry about after “does this clear the frame?” and “does this work with my brakes?”
Forever-Flaky on
I have some maxxis dth 2.1 mounted on narrow mountain track rims and they’ve been great. Had to wrestle the on there
jgeog on
Unrelated but before you get too deep with this build, that is a Uniglide hub designed to work specifically with a cassette that uses the smallest cog as the lockring, and they are long gone. If the freehub is not internally threaded for a modern lockring as well, then you may be better off with a different wheel, since the freehubs are not really replaceable (they are hackable, or so I’ve read). Your other option is to take apart an 8-speed cassette to run as a 7 or 6 with a bottom bracket lockring holding it on.
9 Comments
Hell I’ve run worse on low pressures on my old 90’s peugeot. Send it
Were they a tight fit going on OP ? Or did they just fall onto the rims. I’d use them if they were a tight fit but I’d break them in and monitor them before doing anything sendy related at speed.
It’s safe to ride. It isn’t “ideal” from performance standards, but don’t let that force you to spend more money.
Will probably work but the ride will feel a bit spongy / wobbly. I wouldn’t feel confident taking corners aggressively though.
Good on you for doing the build. Working on my first at the moment too. Satisfying.
matrix rims? is this an old trek?
so these tires are 700c or 26″
regardless, the labeled width of the tire is 2.1″ or 53mm, correct?
Sheldon Brown’s rule was to know the inner rim width (irw) in mm and then multiply that by 1.45 and 2.0 for the min. & max. tired width the irw is sometimes labeled on the rim or you’ll have to remove the tire and measure it. so let’s say the irw is 20mm. (20)(1.45) = 29. (20)(2.0) = 40. so the min. & max. tire width you should choose is 29 to 40mm or roughly 1.14″ to 1.57″ however, today and with mt or gravel bikes the 2.0 is often ignored, rims are stronger, and often the equation is often closer to irw x 2.33.
https://sheldonbrown.com/tyre-sizing.html
the inner rim width is the last variable I’d worry about after “does this clear the frame?” and “does this work with my brakes?”
I have some maxxis dth 2.1 mounted on narrow mountain track rims and they’ve been great. Had to wrestle the on there
Unrelated but before you get too deep with this build, that is a Uniglide hub designed to work specifically with a cassette that uses the smallest cog as the lockring, and they are long gone. If the freehub is not internally threaded for a modern lockring as well, then you may be better off with a different wheel, since the freehubs are not really replaceable (they are hackable, or so I’ve read). Your other option is to take apart an 8-speed cassette to run as a 7 or 6 with a bottom bracket lockring holding it on.