I shouldn't need a 25" breaker bar, inside a 48" pipe with the socket bolted to the bottom bracket so it doesn't cam out.
I still can't move the other side (yeah, I know it's left-hand threaded).
by theservman
I shouldn't need a 25" breaker bar, inside a 48" pipe with the socket bolted to the bottom bracket so it doesn't cam out.
I still can't move the other side (yeah, I know it's left-hand threaded).
by theservman
20 Comments
It can’t be tight if it’s a liquid🤔💡
It didn’t start out that tight. Precession tightens it and corrosion keeps it stuck.
It’s much more likely that it corroded or bonded to the frame somehow. Nobody installed it with that much torque!
Seized ones, yes.
Also, make sure you’re turning it in the correct direction.
Never, since they are self tightening.
Yes
I don’t think I’d want to put that much bending stress on the frame. Instead, I’d heavily spray with a penetrant repeatedly over several days and use an impact wrench on it.
Drive side (on BSA and Swiss) is left-hand threaded. Non drive side is normal. You show the NDS here so you should be going counter-clockwise. Not saying any of this to imply you don’t know what you are doing but as written, it’s ambiguous what direction you are turning so I’m stating it for clarity.
A neglected bottom bracket can chemically seize to the shell if there wasn’t enough lubrication during installation.
Mechanical precession tightens the cups as you ride (the entire reason for reverse threading on drive side, to prevent loosening while riding).
You shouldn’t need a a four foot pipe here. Worst case scenario, you’d need to put the tool in a bench vise and use the frame itself for your leverage. A two foot bar should be sufficient.
It’s much easier to get the BB out with the bike the correct way up on the ground standing on its wheels. In your image it looks like you are tightening the non drive side.
An impact wrench generally works better as it does a more effective job of overcoming the initial breakaway force required.
Galvanic corrosion, aluminum with steel.
make sure you are loosening it ! 🤣
I’ve had that level of argument with either a frozen BB cup, or when trying to get an Italian thread drive side cup to quit trying to back out.
Usual tactic when it gets that tough is clamp the tool in a hefty bench vise and get someone to help you use the frame for leverage. Couple of shots of penetrating oil spray should help as well.
at that point i would just cut it out, but those threads can get damaged doing so …..
Don’t confuse “tight” with “seized.”
I use a 24″ breaker bar and have a 5′ long piece of scaffold pipe that goes over it when BB’s are reluctant but if they don’t work I tell customers that any further force may cause to damage the frame and they have to sign a waiver required by my insurance company before I will do any more.
They don’t start out that tight but if they were originally assembled without any anti seize compound or grease and have been left there for years they can end up as near as damn it “welded” in by a combination of factors.
Let’s talk about frames and BB’s. Water can get into the frame very easily, so road grime as well as (sometimes) salt water, so it’s hardly surprising that the BB threads seize up! Best way to get wet crud in your seat tube? Ride in the rain with an open topped seat post, and no fenders. Soooo, if you have to fight to remove a BB, make it the last time you have to do this by using a plastic sleeve in there to keep it dry, and slather plenty of waterproof grease in there, and put some good anti-seize paste on the threads. On the topic of huge breaker bars, it’s a good plan, but before you break something try an impact device. That has the benefit of shock to achieve the ‘breakaway torque’, which is always higher than the installation torque – sometimes waaaaaay higher. Again, lube and keeping it clean with a sleeve is a good plan. Here’s a cheap and simple impact that can work well: [https://www.amazon.com/Arwealxs-Reversible-Screwdriver-Phillips-Fasteners/dp/B0F325QFY4/ref=sr_1_49_sspa?](https://www.amazon.com/Arwealxs-Reversible-Screwdriver-Phillips-Fasteners/dp/B0F325QFY4/ref=sr_1_49_sspa?)
Is it SRAM Dub? I needed a similar approach for a 3 year old outdoor bike BB recently. 1 meter breaker bar.
Tried heat?
The side you’re turning should be right-hand threaded.
And with stuff like this I usually find it easier to wrench with the wheels on and resting on the ground. Then all you need to do is hold the bike vertical and step down on the wrench. It’s easier to apply a lot of force and the frame is being loaded exactly how it’s designed to be loaded.