Not while using the existing cable stops and existing caliper. You could run a single piece of housing along the top of your top tube, which would reduce the radius of your bend in the housing, but may have its own effects due to the longer piece of housing.
Also your brake is open.
The_Folding_Atty on
Looks like the QR on your brake arch is set to open; close that before adjusting things, and move the doughnuts so they’re spread along the brake cable along the TT. And, per **ephemeralmiko**, replace that housing. You *might* even want a slightly larger loop to reduce the bend angle.
ruun666 on
Yes. Go around seat tube.
Deep-Egg-9528 on
If you cut a cm or so out of the housing, it will take a straighter path to the caliper.
Make sure you close the quick release on your caliper before adjusting everything.
And if it’s new housing and cable, twist in all the barrel adjusters so you have something to help when the stretching happens.
no……. just use a piece of compressionless housing with a teflon insert and a teflon impregnated cable. Too short or too long and it pulls or pushes on your caliper and causes it to be off center. If you are running aluminum rims, I strogely suggest Koolstop dual compound brake pads (salmon/black) best aluminum rim brake pads I ever used in 40 years. They require less mechanical force. Even full salmon pads are great but the stopping power can be more than you want.
ohwowhowdthathappen on
Screw your barrel adjust in and close the cam on the brake caliper.Â
bcblues on
problem solver travel agent? Not sure if it works on brake cables.
9 Comments
Try using Jagwire compressionless housing
[https://www.jagwire.com/en/article/154-587/brake-housing-5mm-keb-slick-lube](https://www.jagwire.com/en/article/154-587/brake-housing-5mm-keb-slick-lube)
Not while using the existing cable stops and existing caliper. You could run a single piece of housing along the top of your top tube, which would reduce the radius of your bend in the housing, but may have its own effects due to the longer piece of housing.
Also your brake is open.
Looks like the QR on your brake arch is set to open; close that before adjusting things, and move the doughnuts so they’re spread along the brake cable along the TT. And, per **ephemeralmiko**, replace that housing. You *might* even want a slightly larger loop to reduce the bend angle.
Yes. Go around seat tube.
If you cut a cm or so out of the housing, it will take a straighter path to the caliper.
Make sure you close the quick release on your caliper before adjusting everything.
And if it’s new housing and cable, twist in all the barrel adjusters so you have something to help when the stretching happens.
https://preview.redd.it/7a95gy31y6vg1.jpeg?width=2268&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=cd259f8bf5d4840354a09979748eb45e929b3a39
Maybe shorter outer cable?
no……. just use a piece of compressionless housing with a teflon insert and a teflon impregnated cable. Too short or too long and it pulls or pushes on your caliper and causes it to be off center. If you are running aluminum rims, I strogely suggest Koolstop dual compound brake pads (salmon/black) best aluminum rim brake pads I ever used in 40 years. They require less mechanical force. Even full salmon pads are great but the stopping power can be more than you want.
Screw your barrel adjust in and close the cam on the brake caliper.Â
problem solver travel agent? Not sure if it works on brake cables.