I have an "expensive" road/endurance bike. I recently washed it degreased the chain and then relubed it with some walmart cheap wet lube. Does the quality of lube matter?
People debate chain lube the way they debate religions!
As long as it’s actually chain lube, it’s probably fine. Don’t use WD-40, 3-in-1, or motor oil!
ValuableConfident274 on
yes.. forget lube and invest in some hot wax. a little expensive and time consuming to start but it’s well worth it. keeps everything much more clean and better drivetrain performance for much longer than using a traditional lube.
Street_Glass_9212 on
Depends on where you ride. Wet lube for wet weather riding, it’s a thicker lube better against washout from water, dry lube for dry areas, better in dust…I personally go with all weather lube or chain waxing depending upon which bike I’m riding.
juggy1985 on
Depending on weather/riding conditions. A wax based lube seems to work best during dryish times. You get what you pay for at the end of the day. Cheap out and will more than likely wear quicker. False economy skimping out in my book. I use “Peatys” range personally
HereWeGoAgain666999 on
There are some good ones and some bad ones probably the best lube u can get is Silca Synergetic lubricant
Katunopolis on
One thing I think everyone agrees upon, a dry clean chain is better than a lubed dirty chain.
sulliesbrew on
If you don’t want to go all in on wax, buy some silca synergetic. Yes it is more than cheap lube, but it works incredibly well.
velo_dude on
It matters…enormously…far more than most people realize.
Everything in the link above can be reduced to three clear rules:
1. If most of your riding is in dry conditions, go with immersion paraffin wax (Silca, Molten Speedwax)
2. If you ride in conditions where the chain gets wet, use Silca Synergetic.
3. Measure chain wear regularly and replace the chain when it reaches its wear limit.
Bad lube and riding a worn chain kills drivetrains, which are expensive to replace.
andrewcooke on
wet vs dry certainly matters. dry is cleaner, which typically means less wear, but doesn’t last as well (and is useless if it rains heavily).
they both work well in the appropriate conditions.
basslinesurfer on
Personally I prefer immersive waxing. But for the city bike I still use a light all weather lube.
There are some differences between lubricants ofc. Just avoid the really thick and heavy ones and the expensive ones that promise you enormous efficiency gains.
DT Swiss wheels and ultegra DI2 is indeed “expensive”.
No, the lube does not matter much. There are better quality lubes and lesser quality lubes. 90% of the difference is brilliant marketing from brands and blind faith from cyclists.
Use a chain lube. Dont overthink it unless you are like me and hate money.
hongos_me_gusta on
depending on the existing condition of the chain & other moving parts ….
1. spray wd-40 into a paper towel and run the chain backwarss through it. this will help remove excess lubricant, filth, dirt, and reduce oxidation. wear gloves & eye protection (wd-40 is hard to wash off, smells bad, & is not good to get innyour eyes). wd-40 is a solvent & prevents oxidation, it’s not lubricant.
2. use tri-flow, wax, or other very light or thin lubricant in small amounts or using a dropper straw from the bottle. hit individual links. additionally, one small drop on each moving joint of the front & rear derailleurs, the rear derailleur pulley wheels, … any or all moving parts. 3-in-1 oil, motor oil, castor oil, sésame oil, etc. are all too dense or think to be used on bike chains.
beagles4ever on
It depends.
Yes you want something to coat your chain(rollers and pins). Preferably long lasting unless you like applying lube a lot. Do you need super expensive lubes for maximizing every watt of efficiency? Not unless you’re on the world tour (in which your team mechanic will do this for you). But there are good and ok great lubes. And if you ride in the muck then you have to think more about it. But basically, anything that is purpose made for chain lubes is going to be good enough for who it’s for. Triflow is an easy go to. Avoid lubes like WD40 that are great for loosening stuck parts but lousy chain lubes because they’re too thin and evaporate off.
povlhp on
Lube will make the rollers rotate.
Wet lube is good and will often penetrate better and get in where needed. But since it leaves a sticky residue it as a magnet for dust.
In the summer use dry lube. Often it is dissolved, and the solvent will evaporate. Used to avoid picking up dirt.
Careful-Anything-804 on
Yes, the kind of lube you use directly effects the efficiency when you pedal… Do not use the cheap Walmart stuff it’s terrible. Sure it keeps your chain from squeaking but that’s all it’s good for
Marcg611 on
It does if your riding mostly in dry conditions, then your going to want a good dry wax lube like Squirt dry lube
AndyLu22 on
Between wet and dry lube, I always recommend dry even in wet road riding as it’s easier to wipe down the chain and relubricate, whereas using a wet lube will constantly pick up road grime and turn into a paste that can wear your drivetrain prematurely. Wet lubes are best left for wet off-road riding.
Between different brands and grades, I’d say it doesn’t particularly matter unless you’re chasing marginal gains in race situations. Entry level dry lube does fine, a dry lube with ceramic does great for longevity (out of the rain). I see the benefits in chain waxing but there’s not enough payoff for my style of riding
TheDaysComeAndGone on
I was actually surprised how much difference Silca Synergetic lube made. It’s quite expensive but you need to re-apply far less often and my drivetrain components last much longer now. I cycle in all kinds of weather and don’t want the hassle of wax (also don’t have electricity in the cellar for a heated pot). I used several different lubes before: Finish Line Cross Country, Pedro’s Wet Lube, MucOff Wet Lube, Shimano Wet Lube …
Aggravating-Walk5813 on
Motorcycle manufacturers recommend using 90 weight gear oil. It’s what I’ve been using on my chains for quite a while. Drip oil on it, put it on a stand or flip the bike over, pedal, wipe it down (watch your fingers). Edited to add Ryan F9’s video https://youtu.be/VnPYdcbcAe0?si=dUFrZ_iVoXOlap2G
Suspicious_Celery552 on
Don’t think it matters as long as the lube is specific for what it is. For example, you are not going to put olive oil on a cassette of chains.
Ortofun on
Quality doesn’t really matter. But type does. There’s types for rainy and dry weather conditions. That’s about it. If you want to use the same type in all weather conditions it’s probably best to get the type for rainy weather conditions. That will come off less quickly when it rains. Dirt does stick more easily to it though, so it requires frequent chain wipedown/reapply.
22 Comments
People debate chain lube the way they debate religions!
As long as it’s actually chain lube, it’s probably fine. Don’t use WD-40, 3-in-1, or motor oil!
yes.. forget lube and invest in some hot wax. a little expensive and time consuming to start but it’s well worth it. keeps everything much more clean and better drivetrain performance for much longer than using a traditional lube.
Depends on where you ride. Wet lube for wet weather riding, it’s a thicker lube better against washout from water, dry lube for dry areas, better in dust…I personally go with all weather lube or chain waxing depending upon which bike I’m riding.
Depending on weather/riding conditions. A wax based lube seems to work best during dryish times. You get what you pay for at the end of the day. Cheap out and will more than likely wear quicker. False economy skimping out in my book. I use “Peatys” range personally
There are some good ones and some bad ones probably the best lube u can get is Silca Synergetic lubricant
One thing I think everyone agrees upon, a dry clean chain is better than a lubed dirty chain.
If you don’t want to go all in on wax, buy some silca synergetic. Yes it is more than cheap lube, but it works incredibly well.
It matters…enormously…far more than most people realize.
[Zero Friction Cycling – Lubricant Testing](https://zerofrictioncycling.com.au/lubetesting/)
Everything in the link above can be reduced to three clear rules:
1. If most of your riding is in dry conditions, go with immersion paraffin wax (Silca, Molten Speedwax)
2. If you ride in conditions where the chain gets wet, use Silca Synergetic.
3. Measure chain wear regularly and replace the chain when it reaches its wear limit.
Bad lube and riding a worn chain kills drivetrains, which are expensive to replace.
wet vs dry certainly matters. dry is cleaner, which typically means less wear, but doesn’t last as well (and is useless if it rains heavily).
they both work well in the appropriate conditions.
Personally I prefer immersive waxing. But for the city bike I still use a light all weather lube.
There are some differences between lubricants ofc. Just avoid the really thick and heavy ones and the expensive ones that promise you enormous efficiency gains.
Nixfrixshun and forget about it. https://nixfrixshun.com/
DT Swiss wheels and ultegra DI2 is indeed “expensive”.
No, the lube does not matter much. There are better quality lubes and lesser quality lubes. 90% of the difference is brilliant marketing from brands and blind faith from cyclists.
Use a chain lube. Dont overthink it unless you are like me and hate money.
depending on the existing condition of the chain & other moving parts ….
1. spray wd-40 into a paper towel and run the chain backwarss through it. this will help remove excess lubricant, filth, dirt, and reduce oxidation. wear gloves & eye protection (wd-40 is hard to wash off, smells bad, & is not good to get innyour eyes). wd-40 is a solvent & prevents oxidation, it’s not lubricant.
2. use tri-flow, wax, or other very light or thin lubricant in small amounts or using a dropper straw from the bottle. hit individual links. additionally, one small drop on each moving joint of the front & rear derailleurs, the rear derailleur pulley wheels, … any or all moving parts. 3-in-1 oil, motor oil, castor oil, sésame oil, etc. are all too dense or think to be used on bike chains.
It depends.
Yes you want something to coat your chain(rollers and pins). Preferably long lasting unless you like applying lube a lot. Do you need super expensive lubes for maximizing every watt of efficiency? Not unless you’re on the world tour (in which your team mechanic will do this for you). But there are good and ok great lubes. And if you ride in the muck then you have to think more about it. But basically, anything that is purpose made for chain lubes is going to be good enough for who it’s for. Triflow is an easy go to. Avoid lubes like WD40 that are great for loosening stuck parts but lousy chain lubes because they’re too thin and evaporate off.
Lube will make the rollers rotate.
Wet lube is good and will often penetrate better and get in where needed. But since it leaves a sticky residue it as a magnet for dust.
In the summer use dry lube. Often it is dissolved, and the solvent will evaporate. Used to avoid picking up dirt.
Yes, the kind of lube you use directly effects the efficiency when you pedal… Do not use the cheap Walmart stuff it’s terrible. Sure it keeps your chain from squeaking but that’s all it’s good for
It does if your riding mostly in dry conditions, then your going to want a good dry wax lube like Squirt dry lube
Between wet and dry lube, I always recommend dry even in wet road riding as it’s easier to wipe down the chain and relubricate, whereas using a wet lube will constantly pick up road grime and turn into a paste that can wear your drivetrain prematurely. Wet lubes are best left for wet off-road riding.
Between different brands and grades, I’d say it doesn’t particularly matter unless you’re chasing marginal gains in race situations. Entry level dry lube does fine, a dry lube with ceramic does great for longevity (out of the rain). I see the benefits in chain waxing but there’s not enough payoff for my style of riding
I was actually surprised how much difference Silca Synergetic lube made. It’s quite expensive but you need to re-apply far less often and my drivetrain components last much longer now. I cycle in all kinds of weather and don’t want the hassle of wax (also don’t have electricity in the cellar for a heated pot). I used several different lubes before: Finish Line Cross Country, Pedro’s Wet Lube, MucOff Wet Lube, Shimano Wet Lube …
Motorcycle manufacturers recommend using 90 weight gear oil. It’s what I’ve been using on my chains for quite a while. Drip oil on it, put it on a stand or flip the bike over, pedal, wipe it down (watch your fingers). Edited to add Ryan F9’s video https://youtu.be/VnPYdcbcAe0?si=dUFrZ_iVoXOlap2G
Don’t think it matters as long as the lube is specific for what it is. For example, you are not going to put olive oil on a cassette of chains.
Quality doesn’t really matter. But type does. There’s types for rainy and dry weather conditions. That’s about it. If you want to use the same type in all weather conditions it’s probably best to get the type for rainy weather conditions. That will come off less quickly when it rains. Dirt does stick more easily to it though, so it requires frequent chain wipedown/reapply.