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15 Comments

  1. DiagonalSandwich on

    That brake line has “memory”. I would remove the caliper and brake lever and wiggle the line around to bend it gently in the desired direction then reattach.

  2. TestPristine9322 on

    Well, that’s just the idiotic SRAM “stealth” levers. There’s no logical reason for them to make the hose exit the lever in that angle. Except the rear brake could made look pretty clean with headaet cable routing but even that’s badly done by Canyon. Crazy long hose.

  3. shorten the hose which, if you’ve never done it before, it a complicated process that requires expensive and specialized tools. Would cost maybe $40 at a bike shop.

    Or just get some 3M clear paint protection stickers and apply to your headtube.

    Or, if you just bought it from a bike shop, take it back and see if they’ll shorten it for free. Show them the pic on the company’s website of how Canyon says it should look and not rub

  4. RomeoSierraSix on

    Zip tie or spiral wrap the two brake lines together so the closer line gets pulled away from the frame

  5. Loosen the compression hose nut slightly. Turn the hose so that it points away from your headtube. Retighten the hose nut.

    If you mess up you might need to bleed your brakes.

  6. Mindless_Purpose_760 on

    That’s aero…for your mtb. It’s cool, put some tape on the head tube. Innovate or die and pay extra for it

  7. Active_Ad_5322 on

    a few comments here have suggested to loosen the compression nut, twist the hose so it rotates away from the fram, and then re-tighten.

    I’ve done this with many builds, and having brake hose vise blocks to prevent the compression nut from twisting the hose while tightening is key. usually hydro brake grease prevents twisting, but the vise blocks are the best solution for twists.

    if you loosen too much, you might lose fluid and need to bleed. you won’t have to do a full bleed, since the fluid will have only dripped from the lever. a “burp” and a milliliter or two of fluid. It can be done with just one syringe connected to the lever bleed port

    https://preview.redd.it/1c0qo281yglg1.png?width=630&format=png&auto=webp&s=37a8a226c30723f8483e28c47c502b852ab7b880

    the simplest way to to just remove the brake lever form your handlebars and rotate them one full turn, either forward or back, to twist the hose away from the frame.

    No special tools or risk of lost fluid or tedious, iterative processes. just a flip and you’re done.

    While is won’t look great, but sure the hell a lot less ugly than a scratched/eroded headtube finish

  8. That routing for both brakes looks like shit and will rattle & rub.

    I would say take it to the shop that built it to have them cleaned up, but this is kinda what you get with direct to consumer brands like Canyon.

  9. OP, you just going to casually show us your bike with a picture of a pecker in the background and no NSFW tag?

    /s

  10. OrmTheBearSlayer on

    Take the lever or calliper off and turn it to see if you can get the hose away from the frame.

  11. MuscleCommercial292 on

    Take the brake lever off. Rotate it around once to introduce a bit of a twist in the line, put the lever back to see if its what you want. If not, slide it back off and wrangle it around some other way until you get the brake line tension/twist that you want. This would be what I would do if I didn’t want to crack the system open to clock the hose or add extra stuff.

  12. I just came here to say nice bike 👍🏻 always like the black/gold/kashima color scheme bikes.

  13. dosent work always, but mostly. rotate brakehose, you need to loosen the nut at the level 1-2 turns, bleeding is in 99% not necessary. dont forget to thighten it again

  14. Separate-Impact-6183 on

    Nice woodpecker… can’t discern species without a visible head, but anyone who has a framed pic of a woodpecker has gotta be one of the good guys

  15. take off the lever, give a twist one way or the other. then put it back on. It will then be tensioned away from the frame if done correctly.

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