Chain lube will keep your bike quiet for a while. Not the best lube for longevity though and might be a dirt magnet.
Dry lube is good for speed play pedals.
Silicone lube is good for your garage door rollers and hinges.
Edit: Typos
Mean_Criticism983 on
don’t use any of these please
Active_Ad_5322 on
Not a fan of compressed cans for chain lube.. Waaaaaay to easy for overspray to get on brakes, rims, tires, etc etc.
Drip lube for chains, take your time, be diligent, wipe off excess. If you buy from brands that have a wide line of bike related products, you are off to a good start.
I DO like spray lube for getting into shifter mechanisms. If you do go the spray lube, put a rag behind the item being lube to control overspray.
Every mechanic has their favorite lube, and all of it is great and hard to go wrong with any tenured mechanic’s recommendation.
Also, silicone lube is an often overlooked option in bike shops. Silicone is great when lube touches rubber seals. like inside a floor pump or pump head. It doesn’t degrade rubber seals.
Frosty_Fun_310 on
I only buy the OG product a brand makes. For Blaster, it’s their PB Blaster penetrating oil.
stupid_cat_face on
Dry lube is good for protecting bolt heads against corrosion, pedals, and just on the cassette after riding in the rain, just to keep the surface rust down but I use T-9 for that usually.
Darnocpdx on
I’ve used them in a pinch for regular basic maintenance. When I run out of better lubes. Better than nothing if I ran out and wanna ride.
Though I usually try to save the original pb blaster on seized stuff on new to me old bikes for things like seat posts, cotters, etc.
Dry lube is generally graphite, and would be fine for things where wet lubes aren’t appropriate (shifters, brake levers. Brake to frame connections) Check the label though never used their brand.
chiefvelo on
There is very little friction modifier (lubricant) in any of those. A bicycle chain has very high pressure underload. A properly treated waxed chain stays lubricated with those types of loads or a liquid chain lube designed to penetrate yet not fly off will as well. Wax is best for most types of riding, but wet can be effective for wet conditions, relubing, and corrosion protection. 80 to 90 percent of wear on a lubricated chain is caused by contaminants, dirt. This is why wax outperforms wet lubes.
Agreeable-Mention403 on
I use the Green can on the chain, derailleurs, and cables, and have had no issues. Its a dry lubricant so it dries tack free / doesn’t gather dust. its also safe on plastics.
jf1200 on
I use the green can on my garage door.
Thebrokenpedal on
I’ve used/use the green can for jockey wheels, cables, housing, noisy seals. I don’t use on chains.
11 Comments
Chain lube will keep your bike quiet for a while. Not the best lube for longevity though and might be a dirt magnet.
Dry lube is good for speed play pedals.
Silicone lube is good for your garage door rollers and hinges.
Edit: Typos
don’t use any of these please
Not a fan of compressed cans for chain lube.. Waaaaaay to easy for overspray to get on brakes, rims, tires, etc etc.
Drip lube for chains, take your time, be diligent, wipe off excess. If you buy from brands that have a wide line of bike related products, you are off to a good start.
I DO like spray lube for getting into shifter mechanisms. If you do go the spray lube, put a rag behind the item being lube to control overspray.
Every mechanic has their favorite lube, and all of it is great and hard to go wrong with any tenured mechanic’s recommendation.
Also, silicone lube is an often overlooked option in bike shops. Silicone is great when lube touches rubber seals. like inside a floor pump or pump head. It doesn’t degrade rubber seals.
I only buy the OG product a brand makes. For Blaster, it’s their PB Blaster penetrating oil.
Dry lube is good for protecting bolt heads against corrosion, pedals, and just on the cassette after riding in the rain, just to keep the surface rust down but I use T-9 for that usually.
I’ve used them in a pinch for regular basic maintenance. When I run out of better lubes. Better than nothing if I ran out and wanna ride.
Though I usually try to save the original pb blaster on seized stuff on new to me old bikes for things like seat posts, cotters, etc.
Dry lube is generally graphite, and would be fine for things where wet lubes aren’t appropriate (shifters, brake levers. Brake to frame connections) Check the label though never used their brand.
There is very little friction modifier (lubricant) in any of those. A bicycle chain has very high pressure underload. A properly treated waxed chain stays lubricated with those types of loads or a liquid chain lube designed to penetrate yet not fly off will as well. Wax is best for most types of riding, but wet can be effective for wet conditions, relubing, and corrosion protection. 80 to 90 percent of wear on a lubricated chain is caused by contaminants, dirt. This is why wax outperforms wet lubes.
I use the Green can on the chain, derailleurs, and cables, and have had no issues. Its a dry lubricant so it dries tack free / doesn’t gather dust. its also safe on plastics.
I use the green can on my garage door.
I’ve used/use the green can for jockey wheels, cables, housing, noisy seals. I don’t use on chains.
T9 is the way.