This tire had always been a slow leaker compared to my tubed rear, so the tapework is suspect. I looked inside because the tire started flattening overnight, which, for a tubeless setup, is unacceptable to risk riding on. I had not bothered to check for or replenish sealant levels (Orange). Additionally, likely from repeatedly losing air, the tire beads have built up dried sealant against the rim. Going forward, I want to ensure my tubeless setup is maintained properly, and that starts with good tapework. When I got this tape, I was not sure exactly whether it was too wide or too narrow, and that is what I need your eyes for.
donnybrasc0 on
Is there a question in there? Redo the tape. Or if that overlap is long enough trim the mess? Tubeless also can just lose some air over time depending on multiple factors…so how fast is it leaking? its not magic (sorry i have lots of customers that think you never have to pump tires up again).
Reid_Rivers_83 on
Stan’s tape is tough to work with. I would do a re tape with tape that sticks better. I’ve had good luck with dt swiss, reserve, and peatys tape.
bcblues on
Just strip the old tape off, clean the rim completely (and inspect for cracks), reinstall fresh tape and see if it works. What other answer is there?
endurbro420 on
The width is fine. Just redo the tape. Pull it off, clean the rim with alcohol, then re-tape. Pop a tube in and pump to like 40psi and leave it overnight to get everything smooth. Then set it up tubeless. If it still leaks put the entire wheel in a bathtub and see where the air is escaping from. If it is at the valve stem, you have an issue with the taping or valve.
koza-koza on
Always good practice to check tubeless issues with a soapy spray bottle or during a wash. Tire on and pressurized. This way you can pinpoint issues better. It will show tires “sweating” on sidewalls, bubbles at spoke nipples indicates poor tape job, bubbles at valve/valve core is obvious. There is more to add but that’s the 3 big ones.
12 years shop experience and I’ve tried all the tapes. Get some Terravail tape and be done with it. Valve stems with a tapered conical shape is all you need. Push on the back of the valve stem when tightening the valve stem nut. No need to tighten with tools.
Set everything up dry and check for leaks again with soapy water BEFORE adding sealant. I personally don’t add sealant until I know I don’t get any bubbles coming from anywhere. Good luck!
IndyWheelLab on
Your tape width is fine. Does the valve have a good seal and do you have sealant in there? If yes and you’re losing air, just replace with a 23-25mm tape. Scotch 8898 comes in a 24mm 55m version for $15 from a retailer whose name is derived from the world’s longest river.
7 Comments
This tire had always been a slow leaker compared to my tubed rear, so the tapework is suspect. I looked inside because the tire started flattening overnight, which, for a tubeless setup, is unacceptable to risk riding on. I had not bothered to check for or replenish sealant levels (Orange). Additionally, likely from repeatedly losing air, the tire beads have built up dried sealant against the rim. Going forward, I want to ensure my tubeless setup is maintained properly, and that starts with good tapework. When I got this tape, I was not sure exactly whether it was too wide or too narrow, and that is what I need your eyes for.
Is there a question in there? Redo the tape. Or if that overlap is long enough trim the mess? Tubeless also can just lose some air over time depending on multiple factors…so how fast is it leaking? its not magic (sorry i have lots of customers that think you never have to pump tires up again).
Stan’s tape is tough to work with. I would do a re tape with tape that sticks better. I’ve had good luck with dt swiss, reserve, and peatys tape.
Just strip the old tape off, clean the rim completely (and inspect for cracks), reinstall fresh tape and see if it works. What other answer is there?
The width is fine. Just redo the tape. Pull it off, clean the rim with alcohol, then re-tape. Pop a tube in and pump to like 40psi and leave it overnight to get everything smooth. Then set it up tubeless. If it still leaks put the entire wheel in a bathtub and see where the air is escaping from. If it is at the valve stem, you have an issue with the taping or valve.
Always good practice to check tubeless issues with a soapy spray bottle or during a wash. Tire on and pressurized. This way you can pinpoint issues better. It will show tires “sweating” on sidewalls, bubbles at spoke nipples indicates poor tape job, bubbles at valve/valve core is obvious. There is more to add but that’s the 3 big ones.
12 years shop experience and I’ve tried all the tapes. Get some Terravail tape and be done with it. Valve stems with a tapered conical shape is all you need. Push on the back of the valve stem when tightening the valve stem nut. No need to tighten with tools.
Set everything up dry and check for leaks again with soapy water BEFORE adding sealant. I personally don’t add sealant until I know I don’t get any bubbles coming from anywhere. Good luck!
Your tape width is fine. Does the valve have a good seal and do you have sealant in there? If yes and you’re losing air, just replace with a 23-25mm tape. Scotch 8898 comes in a 24mm 55m version for $15 from a retailer whose name is derived from the world’s longest river.