I’m struggling to get my drivers side crank off, I’ve got a crank pull kit bit it wouldn’t budge, so I used a breaker bar and it’s bent my crank socket. Any ideas except copious amounts of WD-40 and rust penetrator?
I’m struggling to get my drivers side crank off, I’ve got a crank pull kit bit it wouldn’t budge, so I used a breaker bar and it’s bent my crank socket. Any ideas except copious amounts of WD-40 and rust penetrator?
What does the end of your crank removal tool look like?
Additional-Crab522 on
You should use a park tool CWP-7 OR similar. I had a crank that had a dent near the threads and it pinched onto the square taper. If I wanted it off I was cutting it.
Reinis_LV on
Use impact wrench. And maybe apply heat prior to the spindle/crank with a torch – steel spindle and alu crank can make a very strong galvanic corrosion bond that can be broken by different heat expansion of those metals If that fails I would bang out the bb spindle from non drive side.
Keule41 on
I may or may not have stripped the threads on my old Campa track cranks after forgetting the crank bolts… but you clearly managed to get the non-drive side off.
Active_Ad_5322 on
Well, it’s clear that you have the correct tool and know how to use it, since you got the non drive crank arm off.
Your wrench that you bent is IKEA one time use quality. A beefier box end wrench that won’t bent so easily is needed.
Also, position the wrench just about 15-20 degrees just to the left of the crank arm and squeeze the wrench and crankarm together.
The closer the tool is to the crankarm , the more effective torque you get from the wrench .
And be careful, if the tool slip under high torque, it is easy to end up punching the chainrings. Those teeth will split open knuckles with ease.
MuffinNecessary8625 on
I’m surprised the weight of the breaker bar on its own didn’t bend that spanner.
You need to get a decent one.
Dry_Librarian544 on
Is there a chance that the pin of the tool doesn’t reach BB?
Flaky-Ad-4467 on
use a 14mm socket in the silver part and use a breaker
tupac_shakur0783 on
Try heating it with a blowtorch or heat gun. Then try removing it again with your tool.
johnster929 on
I got a stubborn one off using a heat gun. I do think it’s possible to damage the black finish with too much heat so be careful.
Taco_billy on
A couple things to try:
Thread the crank bolt on just a little bit and take a nice leisurely ride around the block. The repetitive pressure on the crank arm will slowly rock it off.
If that doesn’t work, get behind it and put a rubber mallet against the back, and repeatedly hit the other side of the mallet with a hammer. I had one pop off, shoot across the room, and put a hole in my drywall doing that one time. It may take a while, but it will eventually come off.
11 Comments
What does the end of your crank removal tool look like?
You should use a park tool CWP-7 OR similar. I had a crank that had a dent near the threads and it pinched onto the square taper. If I wanted it off I was cutting it.
Use impact wrench. And maybe apply heat prior to the spindle/crank with a torch – steel spindle and alu crank can make a very strong galvanic corrosion bond that can be broken by different heat expansion of those metals If that fails I would bang out the bb spindle from non drive side.
I may or may not have stripped the threads on my old Campa track cranks after forgetting the crank bolts… but you clearly managed to get the non-drive side off.
Well, it’s clear that you have the correct tool and know how to use it, since you got the non drive crank arm off.
Your wrench that you bent is IKEA one time use quality. A beefier box end wrench that won’t bent so easily is needed.
Also, position the wrench just about 15-20 degrees just to the left of the crank arm and squeeze the wrench and crankarm together.
The closer the tool is to the crankarm , the more effective torque you get from the wrench .
And be careful, if the tool slip under high torque, it is easy to end up punching the chainrings. Those teeth will split open knuckles with ease.
I’m surprised the weight of the breaker bar on its own didn’t bend that spanner.
You need to get a decent one.
Is there a chance that the pin of the tool doesn’t reach BB?
use a 14mm socket in the silver part and use a breaker
Try heating it with a blowtorch or heat gun. Then try removing it again with your tool.
I got a stubborn one off using a heat gun. I do think it’s possible to damage the black finish with too much heat so be careful.
A couple things to try:
Thread the crank bolt on just a little bit and take a nice leisurely ride around the block. The repetitive pressure on the crank arm will slowly rock it off.
If that doesn’t work, get behind it and put a rubber mallet against the back, and repeatedly hit the other side of the mallet with a hammer. I had one pop off, shoot across the room, and put a hole in my drywall doing that one time. It may take a while, but it will eventually come off.