This is a new to me mid 2000’s Fuji cross pro cyclocross bike. I know very little besides a tiny bit of research, but I’m exploring some possible upgrades. (Recommendations welcomed as well)

I want to have ease of access to take the wheels off with bigger tires comfortably. I think the cool factor of discs is nice as well since it’s disc brake compatible.

I think full hydraulic conversions aren’t going to be easy because of compatibility issues, but maybe a front full hydraulic, and rear cable actuated could be awesome, and the perfect blend of practicality, but on second thought mismatched levers might not be the move.

I’ve seen the left 2x drop bar hydraulic lever set on sale for pretty cheap though.

Is a disc set up even worth it? Rain might be a small occurrence, and maybe some mountain trails if I want to see about putting the bike to the test.

by Ok-Screen-5699

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9 Comments

  1. Ok-Screen-5699 on

    I imagine it handle some easy smoother trails at least. I’d like to find some in my area anyway.

  2. flower-power-123 on

    Don’t mess with this bike. If you want to experiment with hydraulic disks get another bike. This one works as is.

    If you like cable actuated I recommend [this one](https://www.amazon.fr/Juin-F1-S-hydraulique-hybride-m%C3%A9canique/dp/B0CTC1DRNN). Incidentally the main impediment to using hydraulics (on a bike with mounts) is cost. The cost of the brifters is prohibitive. I was able to find one of [these](https://www.giant-bicycles.com/global/showcase/conduct) on ebay. I wound up not using it but in principle it should make the whole thing a little bit cheaper.

  3. With cable disc brakes you just need to get some road BB7’s and new wheels and everything else can stay the same.

    With hydraulic you’ll (most likely) need a complete new groupset, as well as wheels.

    If you’re going to the effort of upgrading one brake to hydraulic you might as well do both.

    Additionally you’ll want to check rear wheel spacing. 130mm disc hubs are harder to find. Hopefully for your sake it’s 135mm, in which case wheels are somewhat easier to find, especially if you’re comfortable building your own.

    As to mtb trails, I wouldn’t take a 20+ year old CX bike down anything too hectic but as long as your dental and healthcare coverage is good, go nuts.

  4. Your brake options are avid BB5 or BB7 road (short pull for road levers) or TRP spyre brakes. Both decent. There are knockoffs with knockoff results. The hydro but still mechanical pull brakes from TRP or Yokozuna are nice too.

  5. millenialismistical on

    You’ll need new wheels, shifters/brake levers. If you go with cable discs you’ll just need the new wheels but you could use the existing shifters/brake levers. I personally would keep it rim brake but you do you.

  6. ShallotHead7841 on

    Pretty sure this model uses 130mm rear spacing, in which case your chances of finding a disc wheel that will a) fits and b) doesn’t cost the same as your whole bike are slim to none.

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