Three hands! It’s tricky, your forks will flex until the booster takes up the slack in the hole around the bolt head. It’s been a while but I think I pushed them hard to the rim to get them square to the braking surface then pulled them back a bit. Maybe try shimming them between the pad and rim, tighten then remove the shims to get an even gap.
mediumclay on
No tips here but those are damn near mandatory on this frame! 👌
CannonDale_fan_26 on
The Evo mount isn’t anything special. Have you watched the Magura video on[ YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nt9YHufNDj0) from 15 years ago. I gives you a pretty good visual on how to get the pad gap right. I never used it until after I got mine installed, and figured it out be ready the manual a few times, but it’s pretty much just like the video
Use some thick card to act as a packer so you can toe in the pads. From all the way in, wind the lever adjuster out about half of its travel. Push the slave cylinder against the rim (not forgetting the pad packer) and nip up the bolts. Repeat on the other side. Wind the lever adjuster back in to get the pads off the rim. Gently test the brake and fully tighten if all is good. I seem to think that Magura recommend a 4mm gap between pad and rim.
Worst thing about Magura’s (apart from setting up) is when the slave cylinders don’t both push at the same time. Spraying the pistons and dust seals with brake cleaner and a gentle brush may fix this issue, but more often than not you need to pull the pistons and cleaning the seals/bores. It’s nearly always brake pad dust in the dust seals that does it.
4 Comments
Three hands! It’s tricky, your forks will flex until the booster takes up the slack in the hole around the bolt head. It’s been a while but I think I pushed them hard to the rim to get them square to the braking surface then pulled them back a bit. Maybe try shimming them between the pad and rim, tighten then remove the shims to get an even gap.
No tips here but those are damn near mandatory on this frame! 👌
The Evo mount isn’t anything special. Have you watched the Magura video on[ YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nt9YHufNDj0) from 15 years ago. I gives you a pretty good visual on how to get the pad gap right. I never used it until after I got mine installed, and figured it out be ready the manual a few times, but it’s pretty much just like the video
Leave the slave cylinder clamps slightly loose so you can push them in towards the rim easily – the standard plastic cylinder that wraps around the slave cylinders is a bit rubbish, gets index marks easily and makes adjustment a pain. The absolute best option to make adjustment smooth and precise is to fit aluminium cylinder washers from [Trialtech](https://www.tartybikes.co.uk//hydro_rim_brake_spares/trialtech_alloy_cylinder_washers_with_oring/c5p12961.html?cookie_all=1&cookie_refresh=1).
Use some thick card to act as a packer so you can toe in the pads. From all the way in, wind the lever adjuster out about half of its travel. Push the slave cylinder against the rim (not forgetting the pad packer) and nip up the bolts. Repeat on the other side. Wind the lever adjuster back in to get the pads off the rim. Gently test the brake and fully tighten if all is good. I seem to think that Magura recommend a 4mm gap between pad and rim.
Worst thing about Magura’s (apart from setting up) is when the slave cylinders don’t both push at the same time. Spraying the pistons and dust seals with brake cleaner and a gentle brush may fix this issue, but more often than not you need to pull the pistons and cleaning the seals/bores. It’s nearly always brake pad dust in the dust seals that does it.