I'm trying to change my rear tire on my bike that I have had for over +15 years for my spouse to use it to commute. I got the front wheel on alright, but the rear wheel is stumping me.
I don't know what kind of brake this is, if it even is the brake. And I'm having the worst trouble getting that bolt off that has that yellow thing in between it.
Does anyone have any answers or ideas on what I should be doing?

by BlueTortoist

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11 Comments

  1. That is not a brake my friend your brake has a 3 speed internal gear hub! Let me grab you a link to a Shimano disassembly video to help

  2. downstairs_annie on

    The first picture shows the bits for shifting of your internal gear hub. You need to unscrew it, I think it’s the black screw just visible on the right edge of the shifter/click box, and pull that bit off. Underneath is a nut securing that side of the wheel.

    The 2nd picture does show part of the brake system, that silver arm screwed to the clamp around the frame. You need to unscrew that clamp and the nut on top of the yellow washer, then you can take the wheel out.

    IMPORTANT: You 100% absolutely need to screw that arm back onto the clamp for the bike to have a functional rear brake. Don’t forget it.

  3. aguereberrypoint on

    Somewhere on the shifter box thing (on the drive side near the cog) should be a 10 mm bolt or something like it that acts as a set-screw of sorts. Loosen that a few turns, and the whole assembly should slide off, revealing a regular axle nut. Then loosen like normal.

    Nothing looks wrong with the other side axle nut (with the yellow lock washer) – might just be on crazy crazy tight. Try a longer wrench, or try grunting louder.

    Also – you might know this already, but it’s a coaster brake, and you’ll need to remove the little clamp that holds the coaster brake arm.

    EDIT – it might be a 5 mm allen on the set screw. The youtube video that someone posted is the way to go. 🙂

  4. This is an involved job since it’s not as simple as undoing the nuts to take the rear wheel off.

    In your first picture, you’re looking at the gear pin driver for the internally geared hub. There’s a bolt on the bottom right. Loosen that and slide the unit off. You’ll see a pin in the end of the axle and the axle nut. Remove the pin just so you don’t lose it. It simply slides in and out and is only secured by the gear changing unit.

    Next, undo the bolt going through the clamp and kick brake (in the upper right of pic 2). Finally loosen the axle nuts and remove the wheel. The yellow washer is very important and you need to keep that oriented in the same way when you reinstall the wheel.

    Swap the tire, and start reinstalling everything. Here’s a pro tip: use the handle of a hammer between the tire and the seat tube to pull the wheel backwards so you can get the correct tension on the chain. Get the chain moderately tight and the wheel centered. Sometimes it helps to loosely put the kick brake bolt through the clamp and the actual kick brake while doing this so the wheel doesn’t rotate when tensioning the chain. Once it’s centered and tight, sock down the axle nuts. Then tighten the kick brake bolt/nut, reinsert the gear pin in the axle (spread a little grease on there if it’s dry), push the gear changer on all the way, then tighten the set screw/bolt. Done.

    Or bring it to a shop like where I work and pay us $12 to change the tire for you.

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