Pro bike mechanic rebuilds a Pinarello! Full service step by step!

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In todays episode we service and rebuild this Pinarello Prince FX, we preventatively solve as many issues as we can and make sure the bike operates perfectly…

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Hi and welcome back to Bike Speeds. This week we’re going to service this lovely Pinella Prince FX. This bike is in very good condition, very light mileage, but this is more of a recommissioning service after a long-standing period. You can see the dust there forming on the bike. And it shows why it’s important to service a bike and recommission it correctly because there’s quite a few details on this bike that we solve. The chain, very, very little wear. This is a great indicator for me to be able to check the mileage on a bike. I know this bike has done very little miles, but it has done mileage, so it is important for this service. So, first thing for me to do is to strip the bike down. So, first of all, I’m going to take the chain off. We are going to put that through the ultrasonic cleaner. Important to get that relubricated before it goes back out on the road. Both wheels are going to come off because we need to check those and make sure that everything there is absolutely correct. And you’ll see here, this cassette was one of the first problems with the bike. Went to undo it. Couldn’t couldn’t get that to break off at all. It was way too tight. These do have a torque setting that’s printed on them. This was way beyond that. Can damage the threads in the center there. So, it’s very, very important to torque that correctly when you put it back on. And you could see that I needed a breaker bar just to get it off. These don’t self tighten as you ride the bike. So, that was just overtightened in the first place. You can see there’s a little bit of oil and debris building up on that cassette. So, we’re going to clean that off and make sure that that’s spotless before it goes back on the bike. I’m also going to remove the rear derailia. It had a quite a short tail, so I was able just to knock the fereral off the end of that, which enabled me to remove this cable out of the derailure so as I could get this right off the bike to clean and lubricate. You can see there, not too bad. A little bit of debris building up on the jockey wheels. Important to clean those and also to lubricate it and make sure that it is ready to go back on. Same with the front derailia. We’ve got a couple of little issues with this which I’ll show you along the way, most notably when we put it back on the bike. But there are a couple of things for me to do to this one. So, we’ll take that off. We’ll clean it. We’ll lubricate it. And then we’ll set it up correctly when it goes back on the bike. So, that comes off now. Very, very clean. Little bit of grease building up on the outer plate there. That signifies to me there’s a little bit of rubbing there. So, it does need an adjustment, which we will do when we put it back on the bike. Off come the pedals because we are doing a full strip down service on this one where we’re going to clean and detail everything. So, we need to take that chain set apart. So, we’ll take the pedals off. Off comes the left hand pedal arm that’s ready to come off now. You can see there’s quite a lot of grease in the center of that. A little bit over greased. So, we’ll sort that out when we put it back on. And then we just give that a little tap out of the frame. Was actually quite stiff in that bearing. And you can see there spotlessly clean, but we will clean it to the next level and make it even more spotlessly clean. Grease it and put it back into the bottom bracket. Now, often missed on servicing and often missed when people add accessories to bikes is the lubrication of the holes they go in. Those threads are very prone to corrosion. Most of these accessories come with bolts that aren’t pre-greased. So, we’re going to remove those, clean them up, and grease the threads before we put those back in. We’re going to also check the brake through on this one. So, we’re taking out the pads. We’re going to clean those up and also clean that pivot pin up. Same on the front. So, out comes that essential safety clip there off of the axle. And then out comes the axle before we remove the pads themselves. You can see here, this is the axle pivot that goes through those brake pads. There’s quite a little bit of corrosion on these. There’s a little bit of white grease at the very tip, but most of that white is corrosion. And you can see along that shaft there, corrosion beginning to form. So, this is why it’s important to clean those up and lubricate those before they go back in the bike. We’re going to take the jockey wheels out of this one. Now, on this generation of 105, the jockey wheels don’t have bearings in them. They actually have a bushing in the center of those. So, we can actually run those jockey wheels through the ultrasonic cleaner, which we’ll do shortly. And I’m going to also break down the chain set so we can really clean deep inside it. And also relubricate that. There’s a couple of points on this which I’ll lubricate as I put it back together, which I’ll show you shortly as well. So, everything now goes into the ultrasonic cleaner. I run stuff through this for typically around about 15 minutes and then we will wash the items off, dry them all down, blow them out with an airline before we go to the lubricating process. So, everything’s going in there that we want to clean up and then we’ll wash those down to get the degreaser off of the component. You can see there we’re using one of our detailing brushes and we’ll clean that all down before we begin to put it together. And of course, the cassette as well. You can see how that’s cleaning up beautifully now. absolutely looked brand new when it went back on the bike. So, it was quite a treat really. I always enjoy doing cassettes because you see that grease lift off of them. It’s always an area that gets very, very grimy very, very quickly. And when you clean it up like this, it’s quite a joy to see. Body of the derailia itself. We’ll also clean that up. Make sure that that’s absolutely spotless. And then obviously these jockey wheels, which I have put through the ultrasonic cleaner. We don’t always durase tend to have bearings in the center of those. So, I don’t tend to put those through the Ultronic Cleaner. You’ll have seen in other videos of ours where I wipe those down with a degreaser without getting the bearings degreased. So, you can see here that in the center of this one, we’re putting our premium grease. And then we’re putting that little collar there that sits inside. That’s the actual area that the derailure pivots and spins on. And then we’re using a little bit of park tool thread locker here in the derailia body itself to make sure that the axles through these jockey wheels don’t come loose on the road. Now, if you’re enjoying this video, please do subscribe to the channel. Do drop us a like and maybe check out our website. The link is always in the description below, bikes.com. We sell a lot of the items that we use on these services on our website. Things like these greases here. I’m using our allpurpose grease and copper grease on the thumb adjuster of the rear derailer. This is often missed and most of the bikes that come in the shop have this seized solid. It’s good that I can lubricate it at this early stage of the bike’s life. If this is seized, you can’t adjust your bike on the fly or out on a ride, especially not with cold hands. So, this detail makes all the difference. I’m also now going to put a little bit of our premium grease on the spring of the derailia to stop any water getting on there and causing that to corrode. And then the pivots of the derailia never does any harm to lubricate these. They are pretty much a bushing that self lubricate them, but it always helps to lubricate them. Always adds to the actuation process and just makes them shift that little bit nicer once they’ve been serviced like this. So you can see here the front derailer is now all spotlessly clean, nicely lubricated, and ready to go back on the bike. And that again is another part that came up absolutely as new. Now, this is what I was talking about with the chain set where I was saying there’s a few things I need to lubricate. I always lubricate these bolts that hold the chain set together. I use anti-seize grease there and then I also lubricate the splines themselves before I put the chain rings back on the bike. These are notorious for binding. You can get corrosion form between those and the chain rings. So, just putting a little bit of grease on those reduces the risk of that corrosion and also makes it a little bit easier for me to take this apart next time I service the bike. So, in go those bolts. Now, we tighten those up. They’re all torqued to a specific setting. I torque these in a crisscross pattern to pull them in evenly. And it’s also important not to overtighten them as they are super common to seize up. And then another often missed part of a bike is the through axle as in this case that’s often not greased. These can corrode inside the wheel which obviously is a huge problem for getting the wheels off. So you want to make sure that these are lubricated appropriately. So we put general purpose grease on the shaft and then our any sees grease on the threads. Next up for me is to wash the bike down. Now, when I’m washing and polishing bikes, I do it in the very, very same fashion along the way. So, I always start on the handlebars and then I always wash the crown and the forks. Same with when I’m polishing, as you’ll see me going. That way, it’s a rhythm and a flow, which is the same on any service that I do. Regardless of the bike or the condition, this bike still gets the same treatment as any other bike, even though it’s almost spotlessly clean, cuz I don’t want to scratch any of the dust around when I polish the bike. Cleaning the saddle there as well. And now the bike is washed and ready to be dried off. So again, you can see me there drying down the handlebars, drying down the the forks, top tube, down tube, rear triangle. It’s the same principle all the way through. And you’ll see there I’m using a nice soft microfiber towel as I will also do here with the super resin polish. So we’re going to polish this frame. We’re using the Autolim super resin polish you see there. And again you can see crown then the forks. Exactly the same principle as when I’m washing. The beauty of the super resin polish is any film that is impregnated on this frame that you may not get off with a wash alone. This will lift that film. the road film that you get. In this case of this bike, it was very dusty when it came in. Will help lift that off. If you have spider droppings that are on the frame, they often don’t wash off, but this polish will lift all that off. And then we use a nice microfiber towel to buff that off. And you can begin to see there the reflection on the gloss red that’s on this frame. Frame is really beginning to lift out now. And then for this bike, the next stage is the rapid ceramic spray. This gives that perfect coating, that perfect protection, and it’s the way that the bike really becomes smooth to the touch. You can run your fingers along this after it’s been polished, and you can really noticeably notice the difference to the way the bike feels as you polish it up. You can see there, beautiful reflection on those reds. And of course, the main benefit of the ceramic coating is the waterproofing to keep the bike cleaner for longer. Now, I’m going to deal with the brake pads. You can see from these brake pads, there’s very little wear in them. But look at the blackness on the top of that brake pad. It forms very, very quickly. These are a little bit ingressed with grime. So, we’ve cleaned that off. And you can see there the before and after. The one on the left is as I’ve took one off the bike. The one on the right is a cleaned one. You can see the reflection of light. That black grime will reduce the braking. Can also add to squealing of a brake. So, we’ve made sure that’s all nice and clean. And then I’m also going to sand down the disc rotor itself. This one was already beginning to get little scores around the top edges. So, we’ve sanded those off. And I’m going to use a brake cleaner here just to wipe that disc down to make sure that it is absolutely as it should be when it goes back on the bike. Now, I’m going to wash the wheel down. So, I’m using one of our detailing brushes here. They’re nice for getting into the hubs themselves in the center of the wheel and running around the rim of the wheel and the spokes. We can clean all those down and just get everything nice there. Fortunately for us, we’ve often talked about it on other videos, the logo on the tire. In this case, it was lined up nicely with the valve, so the bike was nicely presented in that instance. But now, we’re going to deal with this cassette. You remember that it was too tight when it was on the bike. So, I’m adding a little bit of general purpose grease there to enable these cogs to slide on and off the bike next time I service it. In goes that center lock. This one we will torque up correctly. Torque setting is actually written on that center lock. So, we talked that up and that is absolutely as it should be and will not be as hard to get off next time. Tires on this bike when it arrived were virtually flat because the bike had been through a period of storage. So, we’ve inflated those. At the same time as we’re doing this bike, we’re checking all the bearings. So, we’ve already checked the bottom bracket bearings here. They’re all okay. We’ve already checked the headset bearings. They’re all okay. And the wheel and hub bearings. We’ve already done our routine checks along the way with this service to make sure everything there is okay. In the instance of this bike, very very low mileage bike. So everything there was absolutely as it needed to be. So we do check those before we put all these components back on. You’ll see in other videos where we change various bearings, but in this case the bike didn’t need them. Using a little bit of our antias grease here where the pedals go into the chain set. It will just help those come out. Pedals are often something that do get swapped from bike to bike. Likewise, they’re often things that never get swapped from bike to bike and then that’s when you can have the issues with them. season in. So, by lubricating those, it just helps with that process of swapping pedals about or taking them out of a bike. Now, I’m going to deal with this front derailia. So, we’re just going to tighten up that cable there. There’s a little adjuster on the front of that which we’re also going to adjust and tighten in. That was wound right out on the bike when it came in, but we sorted that out. And then we pop in the cover here. And you can see the tail of this derail is a little bit long, so we’re going to nip that off. That will stop that tail dropping back through that plastic. And then on the right hand side of that derailia, it can come unhooked and then that plastic cover can actually pop off. And I often see bikes where that tail’s too long where the cable cover is like hanging off the bike. So that’s why I do that. Rid rail on. New cable end on there. We were able to reuse that cable. There was nothing wrong with that. And then as we mentioned, these pivots were a little bit corroded. So the tiniest tiniest drop of grease along the shaft that will help it actuate the pads. And then a little bit of our anti-seize grease on the threads. Cannot express the importance of lubricating that thread. There’s so many of these I get where this is seized into the caliper because it was never lubricated. I also took those pads out one to clean them, but also when we are polishing and ceramic coating a frame like this, we don’t want any of that to go into where the pads are. We don’t want to impregnate the pads. So, whenever I’m doing any process like this where I’m polishing and cleaning the bike, I always remove the pads off the bike. So there’s no risk of deteriorating them in any way. Now I’m going to also lubricate the accessory bolt holes. These threads, as I mentioned, very, very prone to getting forgotten and seizing. So we don’t want to have any problem here with our accessory holes. So we’ve lubricated those. On go the bottle cages back onto the bike, and they will be able to come on and off of the bike freely in the future. And goes the through axles. again mentioning that they were lubricated so they won’t stick inside the wheels. And then on goes this lovely spotlessly clean chain that we’ve cleaned up. And you can see it looks like a brand new chain because the bike was such low mileage. But we’re recommissioning this and it’s going to be better than when it left the retailer originally. So we just checked the gears and everything is working there. Okay. So shifting up the gears nicely. There was a slight adjustment here on the B screw. Australia was dropped a little bit far away from that number one ring. So, we’ve just adjusted that. And again, that wouldn’t have been done from original retail. So, we’ve made sure that’s right. And then the front derailia is shifting perfectly. We haven’t got that drag on the plate like we had before. The brakes now are working smoothly and actuating nicely, and they’re not rubbing or skimming the disc. So, everything there is now as it should be, and I’m happy with that. So, I’m now going to just run through the bike. You can see here brake lever very very loose this left hand brake lever. So we torque that up and that is again a good reason for having a service like this. I’ve serviced bikes brand new where I’ve had faults and issues with them. And in this instance, this bike virtually was brand new and we had a loose brake lever. So we’re checking every torque on the bike. So we go right the way through the bike to make sure everything’s right. Obviously we need to talk the pedals because we have took those off. So we’re making sure they’re okay. the rear derailer where we’ve took that off the bike. We want to make sure that’s okay as well. So, we literally run all the way through the bike before it goes back out on the road. Both the brake caliper mounts were slightly loose, so I tightened them as well, which should stop any unstable braking. The seat post is often loose, and in this instance, it was. So, we torque that. And the saddle saddles work loose naturally. There’s so much movement on them. You can see here there was quite a bit loose on this bike. So, we’re glad that we went right through it. Final thing for me to do is to lubricate the chain. I’m dripping a little bit of oil into the rollers of each of the roll pins on the chain. And then I’m using that microfiber towel underneath to roll the pins as I’m going from one to the other so that that oil works inside the chain and is lubricated nicely. So, you can see here very, very subtle differences to this bike, but a massive difference to the way it will ride and the way it will present to the customer. Everything has been polished. Everything’s been cleaned. Everything’s been lubricated as it need to be. The bike has been polished and ceramic coated and is absolutely spot on and ready to ride. So, I do hope you’ve enjoyed this video. We certainly enjoyed bringing it to you and we’ll see you again very, very soon. Bye for now.